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    Thread: Fake Bolders

    1. #21
      Van Isle is offline Member
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      More

      Some more
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    2. #22
      Cowiche Ponder's Avatar
      Cowiche Ponder is offline Living my life's dream
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      nice looking rocks Van Isle. I assume they are for pond edging? What kind of mix did you use. Looks like a great idea!

      Mary

    3. #23
      Van Isle is offline Member
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      Hi Mary
      I made these a few years ago with leftover concrete from work. Before I opened my shop this year I spent 28 years as a concrete finisher. If you wanted to make your own concrete for these, simply buy premixed concrete in the bags. Then add 2 shovels of regular type 10 cement powder and 2 shovels of playground sand per bag of premix. this will give you a rich and workable mix to make your stones from. These stones wont breakdown over time and can be sealed with an acrylic concrete sealer commonly used to seal exposed aggregate or stamped concrete. The procedures mentioned by previous posters are basically correct. If you have any other questions just ask. Cheers Gary

    4. #24
      DaKid Koi's Avatar
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      here the link to making fake rocks that Ipost some time ago
      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1838


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    5. #25
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      Thanks for that link DaKid!!

      I had seen that a while back. Im getting more interested in doing something like this. I see that, like everything, there is more than one way to do it. (Van Isle's method doesnt use the peat moss) Can anyone elaborate in differences in texture in the different techniques?

    6. #26
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      The peat moss mix is not as srong as the concrete mix.

    7. #27
      luke frisbee Guest - Time to Register
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      Amen to that...the peat mix is purty if there ain't gonna be a chance of stepping or climbing on it.

    8. #28
      CarolinaGirl is offline Inactivated
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      The peat mix is really useful for planters for the garden. They have the aged look, and they are much lighter weight. But not nearly as strong unless reinforced with fiber or wire.

      Cindy

    9. #29
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      Can this stuff be made during winter? Our average temps til about January are 50's. From Jan.-March it is usually the coldest here. I have got to try this, it looks like alot of fun.

      One question: The pictures just shown of the rocks being made with a corner - What will they be used for? Why the corner?
      ,Karen
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    10. #30
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      DUnno about Van Isle, but I was thinking about doing that so I could have the rocks dip into the water and to help hide liner. Just for effect.

    11. #31
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      Here are a few pieces of my L shaped stones for edging.
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    12. #32
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      Is this stuff safe for being in the pond water? What about leeching?

      I hate being able to see our liner too. I have wondered how to hide it better.
      ,Karen
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    13. #33
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      Hi Karen
      Yes you can make these at any time of the year. If it is close to freezing they just take longer to set up (ie get hard enough to move). I was going to include some pictures of them after they have been in the pond a few years but I cant get them to upload. I also make hollow ones that I put over top of cheap malibu yard lights along the edge of the driveway. I will try to post the pictures later. There is no problem using them in the pond I have never seen any noticable increase in ph from them and I have made a lot of them. Even the concrete ponds I build only show a high ph for a short time before it stabilizes. Cheers Gary

    14. #34
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      Does anyone have a link to recipes? I have type S concrete and play sand. I want to build a rock edge about 12" - 18" down into the pond to hide the liner.

      Thanks
      Kathy

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    15. #35
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      Quote Originally Posted by khoffman19
      Does anyone have a link to recipes? I have type S concrete and play sand. I want to build a rock edge about 12" - 18" down into the pond to hide the liner.

      Thanks
      Kathy
      I use 1 80lb bag or mortar mix
      1/2 gal of mortar clay or fireclay
      1/2 gal of prtland cement.
      mix these all together befor adding water.
      Mix in almost a gallon of water.
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    16. #36
      Billy's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Keiko, The Killer Koi
      Looks great Billy (I bet you have a great feeling of accomplishment)
      Koibie and I did a lot of Hypertufuing w/ our pond,
      I know she posted earlier, but there is a lot more.
      I'll post some more pics and thoughts about it later,
      it was a lot of and work ...but fun I look forward to doing some more projects in the spring.
      I'm building a gazebo near the pond. I wanted it a little higher to look into the ponds so I used those cardboard concrete tubes to pour the footers. When it's finished I will make it look like the gazebo is setting on rocks.
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    17. #37
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      Quote Originally Posted by Keiko, The Killer Koi
      that's great!
      our next big project is (opposite the pond) to cover an existing 4' wall w/ fake rocks and inset a fireplace into it, there is a small japanese garden above it.
      The mix I use really sticks to concrete block. You can make your fake rock
      3 in. thick and the mortar will not fall of a verticl wall.

    18. #38
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      I have a question about these false rocks that are made of cement or concrete applied to a chicken wire mess etc, especially those that contain a void when in place.
      Are they structurally sound, ie could they be stood or sat on by a 200lb+ person?
      Walking/stood on would be applicable to the likes of Billy's work that I imagine kids could have a field day playing on and I could forsee an adult needing access over such an outcrop.

      I like 'natural' seats around my ponds and 2 of the seats by my fish pond are real rock that I dug up when I dug the pond, I was just able to carry them but "boys a dear" they were heavy. Structural hollow cement rocks would be better for any future seats plus they can be moulded to a more 'rear end' friendly shape, I had to angle grind a few uncomfortable bits off the real rock seats and they still arent truely comfortabe.

    19. #39
      Brad Koikichi is offline Senior Member
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      Yes they are structurally sound I am 250 lbs and have foux rocks at both ends of my pond and we sit ,stand even had two people 450+ lbs worth of koi viewers standing on one of them, Frank M of this board bent up the rebar, pencil rod and formed the metal lathe and showed me how to apply the base coat and finish .Then he told me use your imagination on the colors so Staining is a technique I needed to practice on but I finally got what I was looking for.
      Beauty is in the Eye of the Beer Holder

    20. #40
      Keiko, The Killer Koi is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by seanmckinney
      I have a question about these false rocks that are made of cement or concrete applied to a chicken wire mess etc, especially those that contain a void when in place.
      Are they structurally sound, ie could they be stood or sat on by a 200lb+ person?
      Walking/stood on would be applicable to the likes of Billy's work that I imagine kids could have a field day playing on and I could forsee an adult needing access over such an outcrop.

      I like 'natural' seats around my ponds and 2 of the seats by my fish pond are real rock that I dug up when I dug the pond, I was just able to carry them but "boys a dear" they were heavy. Structural hollow cement rocks would be better for any future seats plus they can be moulded to a more 'rear end' friendly shape, I had to angle grind a few uncomfortable bits off the real rock seats and they still arent truely comfortabe.
      Ours are strong enough I sit and stand on ours all the time, but I'm not 200 lbs....I'm 198lbs :D
      We have made a lot more than are pictured here, I'll post more later, and we have tried to make the rocks look indigenous to our yard. So they are all around (small ones) ours large ones in the picture have an armature of cardboard boxes, wrapped w/ hefty bag, wrapped w/ chicken wire. And we have played w/ the mixture a lot it is also flexible where we needed boulders are stones that were in heavy traffic areas and needed to be stronger, we used more Portland cement, and less peat.
      Also one can make a very realistic boulder w/ straight cement. It is a four or 5 step process (each step uses pigmented cement w/ different hues and values), after the armature is made, a base coat of pigmented cement is apply lets say for example you use almost white (pure white Portland cement) allow time for that to start setting then mix another batch, this time adding some grey pigment now coat the boulder w/ it, allow to set then w/ a wire brush are knife, paint scraper, or tool of your choice to texturize the surface revealing the white underneath and still showing a lot of the grey, then mix more this time adding more grey making it a darker value (also you could add a brown hue as well) repeat the texturizing, revealing the lighter grey and white underneath, then another darker almost black and texture again. The values could be reversed as well; also other colors could be used as well. I'll post the weekend some formulas for different looks like sandstone etc.

      the one in this picture are made out out Hypertufa not pure cement BTW
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