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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
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    Thread: A simple pipe boot

    1. #21
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      DRussell, youre confusing me.

    2. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by luke-gr View Post
      DRussell, youre confusing me.
      I thought UPC stood for something else.

    3. #23
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      Quote Originally Posted by DRussell View Post
      On the UPC code .
      In Garrett's pics of the clamps - the third one down is stamped UPC which in this case I'm sure must refer to the Uniform Plumbing Code - not the UPC bar coding we are all familiar with.
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    4. #24
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      Quote Originally Posted by Joey S View Post
      In Garrett's pics of the clamps - the third one down is stamped UPC which in this case I'm sure must refer to the Uniform Plumbing Code - not the UPC bar coding we are all familiar with.
      sounds good to me.

    5. #25
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      AES has all stainless clamps.

      There are many grades of stainless, some of them are slighty magnetic. Most stn stl screws and bolts are 80-8 grade which is somewhat magnetic and will corrode, just slower than mild or zinc plated steels.

      I used to have a chart at work with all the chemical breakdowns of the various stn stl's I'll have to try and dig it up...we had an xray device that I used to validate stainless grades for aseptic use that would give the chemical breakdown. We have to use 316 stn stl (or chemically equivelant)with a 10 ra electropolished finish.


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    6. #26
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      Pipe boots do work well in a liner pond & can easily save 30.00 per penetration on average verses bulkhead fittings. I have 5 pipe boots ranging from 2" to 4". They are really easy to install & probably 99 % leak proof. In four years of study i have never heard of a failure. Mine are 8 months old & i didnt check the purity of the S.S. clamps. This summer i will inspect them for rust (hopefully none).

      On the other hand i would give bulkhead fittings about 80% chance of being leak proof. Success really depends on how careful you are when tightening the nut. If the liner bunches up & creates a fold or just plain blows out of the sealing surface area your going to have a leak. Same goes for poly tanks, you have to keep an eye on the rubber gasket.
      John :palmtree2
      " always the hard way "

    7. #27
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      Not to highjack this thread, but I have a question...

      I was thinking of making this type of pipe boot for my TPRs. I was going to use large pieces of pastic as a flanges (actual tops I cut off the Concrete Tote Tanks) to take the pressure off of the liner.

      I was planning on passing the pipe through the carpet (liner protector) through the flange (which sits between the carpet and liner) and then through the linner, ending in a pipe boot. Would this work or do I need some type of "bulkhead" on the flange to attach the liner and pipe too?

    8. #28
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      Run a bead of silicone around the hose clamp with special attention to the screw. That will stop all corrosion. Or, take another "donut" and place that over the clamp (another layer), and seal the two layers of rubber together with clamp in between.



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