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  • Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
    Results 21 to 40 of 43

    Thread: plumbing, head, gravity flow, system curve, etc..

    1. #21
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      types of drains / bottom drains / bottom drains with air diffusers

      fine print
      below diagrams, are a bad attempt by myself to get idea across of differing drains. i ask that ya don't take them as simple fact. but only take as getting idea across.

      suggest that you think 3D when looking at diagrams. in that i refer to the 3d digram of bottom drain with air diffser on dome and TPRS. by ronin-koi

      DESCRIPTION OF DIAGRAMS / PICTURES
      • legend
        • light blue = water in pond
        • brown = debrie, fish poo, leaves, etc... collecting in pond.
        • red = drains
        • dark blue = my attempt to show water currents created.
        • white = air bubbles created by air diffuser on top of bottom drain dome.
        • note E4 and G4 i used pink and red to show tpr currents. and blue for currents created by drain and air diffuser
      • no drain
        • A1 clean pond
        • A2 pond not been cleaned for a some given amount of time. could be a couple days to a couple months pending on many factors
      • clean out drain. just used durning cleaning
        • B1 clean out drain installed on pond. to make cleaning easier
        • B2 clean out drain open (( aka pond getting cleaned ))
        • B3 clean pond
      • clean out drain hooked into filteration system. so water runs 24 / 7 through drain.
        • C1 just showing clean out drain
        • C2 showing currents
        • C3 showing TPR's
        • C4 showing currents
      • BD = bottom drain = clean out drain with dome over top of it. dome can also be called anti - vortex lid
        • D1 just showing clean out drain
        • D2 showing currents
        • D3 showing TPR's
        • D4 showing currents
      • BD with air diffuser monted to top of dome
        • E1 just showing clean out drain
        • E2 showing currents
        • E3 showing TPR's
        • E4 showing currents
      • Retro drain = dome with pipe coming out the top of it. example of look could be like a vacumn attachment.
        • F1 just showing clean out drain
        • F2 showing currents
        • F3 showing TPR's
        • F4 showing currents
      • retro drain with air diffuser mounted on top of it.
        • G1 just showing clean out drain
        • G2 showing currents
        • G3 showing TPR's
        • G4 showing currents
      • H1 = blown up view of a standard bottom drain
      • H2 = blown up view of a retro bottom drain
      • H3 = top view showing currents created by TPR's.
        • attempt to get idea across of thinking 3D, and currents created within pond.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-04-2007 at 11:34 PM.

    2. #22
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      guilt trip, WHY you want a bottom drain hooked into your filteration system.
      • going to start off with. cleaning a pond that has no drains.
        • normally ponds with no drains are let go for abit to long of time. and a muck layer builds up on the bottom of the pond. this muck layer is bad news. think of living in a toliet that never gets flush. this muck layer can build up some nasty bad bacteria, virius, parasites, bad gasses, and other misc things. that could be harmfull to you. and deadly to the fish.
        • because of the muck layer having those baddies in it. you should not disturb it while fish and plants are still within the water. this means seting up a temprary pond normally and putting all fish and plants into the temprary pond.
        • but there is a kicker, and i am guilty of this. when ya go to catch the fish, i bet ya, you will end up nicking one and causing some sort of damage to it.
        • also count amount of stress are put in, in trying to catch them. to a fish, we are some person that just broke into there house, that plans to tie them up and kill them.
        • hey, one more thing to add to list of putting fish through stress. and that is making sure the temporary pond water stays in correct water parameters when you put fish into it. and the water parameters stay good while the fish are in the temprory pond.
        • so ya finally got the fish and plants out of the pond. now it normally time to drain rest of water out of pond, and start the lovely smell fest of work. using a bucket and shovel to remove any rocks and the muck layer in the bottom of the pond. pending on size of pond. this could take any were to a couple hours to a few days.
        • so once ya get done cleaning the pond, its time to fill the pond back up with water. but you can't just add the fish yet. ya gotta get those water parameters in good standing condition. which may mean adding de-chlorine, or raising / lower ph. or other general water parameters.
        • once ya get the water in pond set. its time now to re catch fish. oh boy. time to nick another fish with a net :/ and put fish through more fish moving them from temprary pond back to main pond.
        • hey ya almsot done. NOT! ya put away temprary pond, and everything else. but there is one critical thing that may happen. because there was prolly a pretty heavy cleaning of the pond and pond filters. you prolly have killed your good bacteria living in your bio filter. in which case, ya going to have to deal with new pond syndrome. in that dealing with amonia, nitrites, nitrates cycling of your bio filter. which could take any were from a couple weeks to a few months.
        • but but but... in a few months its already time to re-clean the entire pond again, and it all repeats :/
        • i remind you fish living in there own toliet bowl.
      • with bottom drains hooked into filteration system.
        • well most of us here have went through the hard way of learning with doing above. needless to say, once we got a bottom drain and hooked it into filteration, we have not went back. to us a bottom drain and a good filteration is like house plumbing and being able to flush a toliet after we go to the bathroom.
        • normally a good filteration system and pond setup. means, never draining the pond of water, never having to catch a fish, never breaking out a shop vac or pond vac. to clean the actual pond itself.
        • NOTE: i say never. but there is always that little thing that will be required to be cleaned up in the pond. but the amount of time and length of time doing that is almost NIL compared to a pond with no drain hooked up into the filteration system.
        • rember though. simply moving all the stuff that would end up in a bottom of a pond with no drains has to go some were when ya start removing the muck from the pond using drains the muck and debriee has to go some place. and the place were debrie and muck will end up will be your filters. normally filters are much much easier to clean.
        • filters are normally smaller, and pending on how filters are built and the media within the filters. you can normally flush the muck out a drain in a filter. or lift the media up and out of the filter for cleaning. which means never having to drain the pond itself to remove the debrie and muck.
      • below pictures.
        1. first is from leekinnykoi, the single picture doesn't do his thread "WHY have a Bottom Drain and Skimmer?? " justice, take a look at his thread and other pictures for some good reading and viewing. by clicking here
        2. Picture from JanetMermaid: Janet noted that she took the picture of a client's pond when they were renovating it. The pond was originally installed by another pond builder who is no longer in business. The original builder, an Aquascape Design certified installer, included approximately 1' of gravel in the bottom of the pond.
        3. picture from NatureCalls. kinda makes ya wonder exactly what ya been feeding the fish. yumm.
        4. another picture from NatureCalls, awe draining of a pond and removing rock. abit scary indeed. and just think atleast 2 times a year atleast cleaning the rock like that. just how many parasites, virus, bacterias are in that fish poo, leaves, eaten food, bugs, mess of a rock and muck mixture?
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-06-2007 at 09:13 AM.

    3. #23
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      experments that can help you visualize having a bottom drain in your pond, that is hooked up into your filteration system.
      • i would love to see pictures of you or anyone else doing one of these experiments. and i am sure many others would to.
      • an experment for drains
        • start off with a kitchen sink.
        • how many times have you wiped down side of the sink after doing dishes?
        • how many times have you scrubed out the bottom of the sink?
        • how many times have you cleaned out the little drain / strainer plug for the sink?
        • *rubs chin* do you want a sink in your home that doesn't have a drain?
      • TPRs ( trigental point returns ) experiment, and partially about drains.
        • bath tub, ketchup, garden hose, spray nozel for garden hose
        • for this expirment all i ask is that you don't actully hurt yourself in such a way. that folks cant tell from being hurt and the ketchup.
        • ya prolly going to want a few big size ketchup bottles for this experment. you may also want some food coloring, other types of thick sauces, such as musturd, salad dressings, bbq sauce, etc... could work.
          • be carefull some food coloring / food products may stain bath tub.
          • note being that this experment deals with a bath tub. food products are use. if you used leaves, dirt, sand, rocks and other msic things, i could see the posts now of you plugging up your bath tub drain. and food products are normally easy washing up. aka just like washing down a sink after doing dishes. simply and easy.
        • would strongly suggest having a simply basic on / off valve on end of garden hose. in that i do not mean a spray nozzle for a on / off valve.
        • to start the experment off, put a good layer of ketchup over the bottom of the bath tub and up the sides.
          • take your garden hose with no spray nozel. and try to move the ketchup around the tub. as if moving it to the drain.
          • make sure you try just useing the water out of the garden hose. then also try hooking up a spray nozzle and trying moving the ketch up around.
        • once ya got above out of your system. and a idea of how the ketchup is going to behave when trying to move it around. its time for the good old fun to begin!
          • plug up the drain of the bath tub and fill the tub up 1/2 way with water.
          • resmere / apply ketch to the bottom and sides of the bath tub.
          • again repeat using just the garden hose end with no spray nozzle. then again with the spray nozzle.
          • i do want you to pay extra special time with no spray nozzle. and playing arorund trying to move ketchup around your bathtub.
        • if ya haven't figured it out, the goal of this experment, is to show you how TPR's behave with bottom drains.
        • TPR's are not jets, they are not some super duper spray nozzle. they are simply the end of the garden hose.
        • with that. you may want to repeat the expirment filling the tub half way full of water, and postion the garden hose in a fixed postion. then add food coloring and ketchup at different spots within the bath tub. to see the water currents that may be created by a tpr in a pond.
      • expriment for TPR currents
        • the goal of experiment is to see the spirling effect of water.
        • 5 gallon bucket, rock, dirt, leaves, sand, garden hose with and without a spray nozzle
        • fill up 5 gallon bucket with water.
        • take the garden hose end and place it under water in such a way. that the water coming out of the garden hose. to caue the water to spin within the 5 gallon bucket.
        • if you use a spray nozzle on end of garden hose, you could prolly get the water spinning so fast, that it looks like a whirl pool forming.
        • for this experment we are more intrested without using a spray nozzle.
        • once ya got the end of the garden hose postion, take a hand full of sand, rock, leaves, or what not. and toss into the 5 gallon bucket at different spots.
        • you should notice things spinning inwards towards the center and some things spinning outwards towards the edges of the 5 gallon bucket.
        • thats all there is to this experment.
        • suggest goofing around and trying different things. be a big kid in a sense and get yourself occupuid with the simplist of things.
      • glass sheet waterfalls vs splashing waterfalls.
        • 5 gallon bucket, a garden hose, and spray nozzle for the garden hose.
        • fill 5 gallon bucket up with water.
        • set spray nozzle to jet
        • point and spray downwards into the 5 gallon bucket.
        • place your hand down under the stream of water, inside the bucket. feal the water and the water currents created by the jet of stream.
        • this filling is your water currents that would be created by a glass sheet waterfall in idea.
        • turn the spray nozzle to spray or shower
        • point and spray downwards into the 5 gallon bucket.
        • place your hand under water inside the 5 gallon bucket, and try to find were the water currents are.
        • you should find the water currents are only created near the top portion of the water.
      Last edited by boggen; 01-08-2007 at 02:41 PM.

    4. #24
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      TPR's, CYLINDER shape pond.

      the goal of below info and diagrams. is give idea of were to place tprs and what they can do to help keep the pond itself clean of muck and debrie, and fish poo, and etc...

      everyone pond is different, and because of that, i ask that you apply the info. just don't take it on blind thought.

      1. no drains, no TPR's, all the debris just collects in bottom of the pond
      2. simple a bottom drain. with a pond size bigger than what the bottom drain can suck into it.
      3. air diffuser on top of the bottom drain.
      4. single TPR. note it throughs symetry of the water currents in the pond way off
      5. 2 TPR's symtrey is no achived.
      6. 3 TPR's note they are evenly spaced around the side of the pond in the top view
      7. same thing again symetry is matained
      8. even more TPR's are added yet symetry is kept
      9. what happens when you point TPR's directly to the drain. nothing gets cleaned.


      round ponds are prolly the easist pond shapes in dealing with keeping the pond clean. this is mainly due to there are no corners that can trap debree.

      • if the pond is small enough were a bottom drain can reach out to the outer edges. then no tpr's could be perfectly fine.
      • as the size diameter of the pond gets bigger. air diffusers and TPR's can get used to help maintain and keep the bottom of the pond clean.
      • would atleast go with TWO TPR's this provides your semtry within the cylinder shape pond. in speaking water currents.making sure how ever many TPR's you add they are equally spaced around the side of a circle shape pond.
      • the goal of the side views in pictures 5 through 8. with the debree in the corners. is an attempt to show that you might have some debree build up under the TPR's. i said might, simply adding tpr's just to get debree from not collecting under the TPR's, can be a very bad thing. reason being, you are limited by the amount of water that is coming from the filteration system. plus cost of price of plumbing.
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    5. #25
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      TPR's, SQUARE shape pond.

      the goal of below info and diagrams. is give idea of were to place tprs and what they can do to help keep the pond itself clean of muck and debrie, and fish poo, and etc...

      everyone pond is different, and because of that, i ask that you apply the info. just don't take it on blind thought.
      1. no drains, no TPR's, all the debris just collects in bottom of the pond
      2. simple a bottom drain. with a pond size bigger than what the bottom drain can suck into it.
      3. air diffuser on top of the bottom drain.
      4. single TPR. note it throughs symetry of the water currents in the pond way off
      5. 2 TPR's symtrey is not completely achived. 2 corners have more debrie build up than other 2 corners.
      6. 4 TPR's symtry is achived
      7. 1 tpr, coming out the side of pond with a 90 inside the pond.
        • this can be a bad thing. with stuff sticking into pond. mainly due to fish can bumb into it and harm themselves. if you have ever witness fish spawning, you would truely understand how much the males shove the female around. (( think a bunch of 5 year old kids that were all given lots and lots of surgar and caffine ))
      8. 2 tprs, coming out pond side with a 90's inside pond. symetry not completey achived.
      9. 4 tprs, coming out pond side with a 90's inside pond. symetry achived
      10. TPR's pointed directly at drain. aka no debrie is removed from pond.
      square ponds or rather trap crap corner ponds. are abit of a pain to deal with. mainly due to the corners will love to collect debrie and muck. its just something of matter of life when dealing with sharp corners.
      • the thought behind diagrams 4 - 6, is to show a safe way to add tprs to a pond, and keep fish from banging into them.
      • the thought behind diagrams 7 - 9, is to show a way of point tprs into corners to clean them out.
        • sadly, they require plumbing inside the pond. my personal preference is i don't like to see plumbing inside a pond. than and fish can harm themselves on stuff inside a pond.
        • the postioning of tprs is not a great use of tprs. granted they may clean the corner, but you loose alot of effective-ness for the rest of the pond bottom in keeping it clean of debriee and muck.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-05-2007 at 01:51 AM.

    6. #26
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      depth placement of TPRs

      NOTE: i am not going into much detail of, educators, jets, mid water returns, mid water picks up. in this post. this is to simply get idea of were TPRs are placed.

      NOTE: the other diagrams from TPR CIRCLE and TPR SQUARE posts are ment more of a placement of TPRs around the pond. this post is more ment for placement of depth of tprs. again think in 3D, not like the 2D diagrams of mine. for a refresher see ronin-koi 3d diagram
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-05-2007 at 02:07 AM.

    7. #27
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      TPR's OVAL shape pond.

      the goal of below info and diagrams. is give idea of were to place tprs and what they can do to help keep the pond itself clean of muck and debrie, and fish poo, and etc...

      everyone pond is different, and because of that, i ask that you apply the info. just don't take it on blind thought.

      1. no drains
      2. a single bottom drain
      3. a single bottom drain with air diffuser on top of dome.
      4. single tpr.
      5. 2 tprs part way semtry but still off
      6. 4 tprs, really trying to pull that symetry but just not there, do the pond shape being ovalish, but we almost have good perfect symetry.
      7. 2 bottom drains
      8. 2 bottom drains with air diffusers on top of domes.
      9. 2 tprs 2 drains. na, we just making one big circle of water around the edges.
      10. 4 tprs 2 drains, na still creating on big circlure motion around the pond.
      11. 3 tprs, 2 drains, i think we have it goerge,
      12. 5 tprs, 2 drains, i think the pond get abit bigger than simple 2 drains and 3 tprs could cover, so we tossed in a couple more tprs. not a big fan though we got 2 tprs with 90's on them, inside the pond, that fish can bump into. that be no good.
      ovals are abit of a pain, main reason being is. the long length vs width a oval has.
      • if the pond was more closer to a roundish shape. ((example width is almost equals the length )) a single drain may be just right for you.
      • a 2 drain setups work good for short width, long length oval shape ponds. ((example length = 2 times width of the oval shape pond ))
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-05-2007 at 06:52 AM.

    8. #28
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      TPR's RECTANGLE shape pond.

      the goal of below info and diagrams. is give idea of were to place tprs and what they can do to help keep the pond itself clean of muck and debrie, and fish poo, and etc...

      everyone pond is different, and because of that, i ask that you apply the info. just don't take it on blind thought.
      • skipping the general what is what. compared to ( circle, square, oval shape ponds for tprs ). just to many diagrams. repeating the same thing over.
      • digrams #1-#3, just not worth a single bottom drain for a rectangle shape. a square shape sure, but not rectanglar.
      • diagrams #4 -#6, basic showing of drains nothing new. (( see circle, square, oval for more explanation ))
      • diagrams #7 - #9, trying to get a complete single circling motion around pond just doesn't happen.
      • digram #10, alot of folks have chosen this setup and seem to like it. they do not a little debrie as noted in diagram, but for what they have, they are happy.
      • diagram #11, not really the best, you loose symetery and throughs currents off. (( diagram really doesn't show it, my bad ))
      • diagram #12, this setup is abit overkill over diagram #10, but if ya look at it, each area around the drain is being treated as if it was a square pond around that drain.
      • diagrams #13 and #14, basic diagram showing draings nothing new
      • diagrams #15, mimics #10, but due to pond was even longer than #10, we added another drain.
      • diagram #16, mimics #12, but just another drain.
      • diagrams #17 - #20, just showing another drain. this is an attempt to show expanding a length of a pond.
      i do remind ya, just like a square has crap trap corners, a rectangle also has crap trap corners. just part of life, when dealing with sharp corners.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-05-2007 at 08:31 AM.

    9. #29
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      recap of basic 4 tpr diagrams / info on applying the basics to more complex shapes

      • the purpose of TPR's is to send not a fast sharp jet of water, but a constant stream of water against the outside edges of the pond bottom.
      • when tpr's and bottom drains are setup. the water currents end up creating a spiraling motion. hence, the diagrams, i have stated na, ya, good setup, etc... normally these setups are the ones with good spirling of water current. which normally means syemetry within the pond shape, drains and tprs.
      • normally the basic 4 shapes can be applied to a little more complex shapes. in that folks may simply be doing good pond building. and are rounding the corners. to remove the trap crap corners found in square and rectanglish shape ponds.
      • on the more complex shapes, shuch as kidney shapes, and peanut shapes. normally these 2 shapes, take rounding out corners to remove crap trap corners abit futher. and keeping the entire outside shape of the pond all curving. in some cases. these more complex shapes may work better than one of the 4 basic shapes in setting up drains and tprs.
      • the below diagram, is to re-enforce. the spiraling water current you want with tpr and drain setups.
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    10. #30
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      misc drain and tpr placement diagrams.
      • below, is just a group of random diagrams drawn up.
      • some may show...
        • different shape ponds.
        • different tpr setups.
        • different drain setups.
      • i have attempted to label bottom left hand corner of below diagrams for some sort of reference #.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-05-2007 at 09:40 AM.

    11. #31
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      waterfalls, understanding / building / uses
      • glass sheet waterfalls
        • in order to get a glass sheet of water, going over a waterfall.
          • diagram #2, #3, #6, #10, #12
          • and the waterfall weir edge have a nice clean, sharp, and straight edge.
          • anything else will resuilt in driping of water, splashing of water. or a sound that will most likely be irrirtating. when you are shooting for a relaxing sound / relaxing enviroment.
        • glass sheet waterfalls by the most part, provide the most airation and gas exchange for a pond.
        • not all the airation and gas exchange happens directly in the waterfall. but by the water currents created by a glass sheet waterfall.
        • the water coming from a glass sheet waterfall will penetrate a pond water surface. in such a way. that the water coming from the waterfall will go deep into the pond.
        • because of the water moving deep into the pond a water current is created. this water current causes old stale water on a bottom of a pond to move up towards the surface of the pond.
        • as the old stale water reachs the pond water surface, airation and gas exchange is done.
        • and this is were a glass sheet waterfall shines in providng more airation and gas exchange. vs a splashing waterfall.
      • splashing waterfall
        • forget about nigra falls, or rapids in a river. ya never going to achive the sound effects of a roaring sound or looks. if you are a millionare then perhap you have a chance.
        • the reason being it takes lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of water and lots of splashing to create the sound effect of roaring and looks. and the cost of buying water pumps, and then cost of running those water pumps, to provide the amount of water needed. is hhmm abit frighting $ figure.
        • your splashing waterfalls. are going to provide a high pitch sounds. and dripping sounds. which normally create a irritating sound that is not good for a relaxing enviroment such as folks backyards.
        • think of the sound you get from your shower when you leave the door open and the shower running. do ya really want to be listening to like type of sounds in your back yard?
        • ay i am against splashing waterfalls. if ya haven't already figure it out. but due keep one thing in mind. your neighbors. ok ok some of you don't like your neighbors. but for yourself. they might be nice to look at, but the sound destory's it. and overall don't promate good airation and gas exchange for your pond and wet pets.
      • generaly waterfalls 1 to 2 feet above pond water surface level will satisfiy most folks wantings for sounds and looks.
      • below diagrams
        • diagrams 1 through 3
          • the goal of those 3 diagrams is to show difference ways to connect your plumbing to a waterfall weir.
          • #1 diagram. will create a small floam or fountain, see diagram #11 for another side view.
          • #2 diagram uses a basin. this basin causes the water coming from the pipe to even out before the water goes onto the waterfall weir. the leveling of the water gives you a good chance for a glass sheet of water going of the waterfall.
          • 3# diagram, takes #2 diagram to another step. in that it turns the basin into a filter. i do remind ya, you will need to clean this filter. so please keep in mind when thinking of such of a contraption. some folks call #3 diagram a overflow waterfall filter, a skippy filter, or perhaps simply a waterfall filter.
        • diagrams 4 through 6
          • this is more about the angle of the weir.
          • going backwards...
          • #6 diagram sets the weir at a downward angle. doing this effectively causes the water flowing over the waterfall weir to gain speed and momentom, which in turn causes the water to shoot off and away from the waterfall weir. this gives you a good chance in create a glass sheet waterfall.
          • #5 diagram. setting the weir level. this will most likely cause water to travel back and underneath the weir. and as some of the water does this. the water will begin to drip down into the pond (( red )). this driping can become a irritating sound. think of the classical drip drip drip of a sink faucet in your home at night. for a glass sheet waterfall this can be undersable and at times the sounds from the drips can drown out the noise created by a glass sheet waterfall.
          • #4 diagram. setting the weir in an upward angle. ya asking for problems with looks and sounds.
        • diagrams 7 through 10
          • more for multi teired waterfalls. or rather stepping waterfalls.
          • #7 diagram is going to provide some splashing as water goes across the steps (( splashing = red in diagram ))
          • #8 diagram, again more splashing. but more splashing than #7 diagram.
          • #9 diagram. removes the splashing, but the trade off no splashing is the little basins per teir / step. this little basins will collect muck and debrie and will need to be cleaned out.
          • #10 diagram. will give you a good chance of glass sheet waterfall per teir / step of the waterfall. just rember that you will need to clean out those basins. due to they will collect and build up with debrie and muck.
        • diagrams 11 and 12
          • these 2 are more to show water flowing over a waterfall weir. from a front side view.
          • #11 diagram would go with #1 diagram. in creating a small little fountain / floam of water. but the primary reason for this drawing is to show the un-even-ness of water of the waterfall weir.
          • #12 diagram. goes with diagrams #2, #3, # 6, #10 if you want a glass sheet waterfall. note the difference between #11 diagram and #12 diagram. in that this diagram has a even level of water going over the entire weir of the waterfall.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-06-2007 at 05:32 AM.

    12. #32
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      chart for waterfall weir sizing
      • not completely happy personally with below chart. it does give data that mimics other charts out there. and below chart would prolly be best used for stainless steal or a nice smooth plastic weirs.
        • hopefully someone will ring in at this thread ( click here ) or some other thread / post and give details of a formula that works for more rougher surfaces such as concrete, flag stone, etc...
        • the below chart was formed using...
      • until till better formula is obtained.
      • take a look at this thread (( also same thread finding better formula )) click here to see thread
      • or / and do a search for....
        • WATERFALL WEIR CHART
      • on your favorate internet search engine, such as google, yahoo, etc... to obtain some charts / data that may work better for flag stones, concrete, rock, and other rough surface weirs.
      • most of the charts pretty much say the exact same thing, but they differ just slightly either a little more or a little less on gallons per hour. or 1/8 to 1/16th of an inch on thickness of water.
      • the better sites give 3 choices to choose from.
        • stainless steal or nice smooth plastic
        • a peice of flat rock, that has a weir width of 6 inches to 11 inches wide
        • a peice of flat rock, that has a weir width of 12 inches or greater.
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-08-2007 at 01:55 PM.

    13. #33
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      examples, links to waterfall builds, and other misc information.
      1. for more pictures of waterfalls goto this thread
        1. Please post your waterfall pics here, natural or man-made
      2. showing glass sheet waterfall
        • note the red color i pained on picture. this red is to repersent mold, meldew, etc... that will end up growing on the wall. due to moisture and water splashing up on the wall.
        • sadly there is not much out there for cleaners / detergents that are safe if got into pond water. meaning if you choose that light color bricking like seen in picture. ya may not be liking that discoloring of growth after some time. and with limited options. for cleaners. you may be looking for a new bricking or a face to put over the wall in a couple years.
        • the light color bricking is fine for pools, were chlorine and other anti fungus, anti bacteria, etc.. can be used. but for ponds with live fish that can easly die from cleaners and deterergents think twice.
        • note: i honestly have no clue were i got this picture. if anyone knows who it is, or if it is yours, please PM me, or post a reply or something. so i can update info on who it belongs to. and give credit to correct folk / folks.
      3. picture from birdman, note a glass sheet waterfall, also notice the wet area behind the waterfall and the wet rocks. this is from the little splashing.
        • water will splash as far from the waterfall as the waterfall is high.
        • so if you have a 10 foot high waterfall. you could get splashing 10 feet away from the waterfall.
        • if your waerfall is only 2 feet above pond water surface level, then ya only going to get splashing 2 feet in every direction from the waterfall.
        • just to re-enforce the mold growth or discoloring of the pond wall. the wet area seen in pictures is the area ya should be concerned about with mold growth / discoloring, due to being wet all the time.
        • note birdman theme with more of dark colors to help blend in any discoloring or growth of algea, mold, etc... on the wall and sides that are near the waterfall. most likely guessing in a couple years with age-ing of it all. it should all blend in nicely.
      4. another picture from birdman, simply showing side view.
      5. from ponderingkoi.
        • has a couple glass sheet waterfalls and a couple splashing waterfall types going on, in this multi teir waterfall. (( multi teir = multi step waterfall in lamn terms or multipule small waterfalls in one big waterfall ))
      6. top view of ponderingkoi waterfall
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      Last edited by boggen; 01-08-2007 at 02:28 PM.

    14. #34
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      This is a GREAT thread. As a sticky why isn't it at the top?

    15. #35
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      placement of waterfalls.
      • the placement of a waterfall around the edge of your pond. goes hand in hand with tpr's, bottom drains, skimmers, and any other water currents and inlets and outlets for water you have for your pond.
      • if you haven't already would suggest reading over bottom drains and tpr's either now or after reading this section for placement of waterfalls.
      • on the smaller size ponds. more so watergarden ponds (( aka plant only ponds, or perhaps plant only ponds with couple goldfish or couple smaller fish in it )) were there not a great deal need for a bottom drains, tpr's, etc... normally a simple skimmer and perhaps a waterfall is wanted to provide a slow flow of water through the plant pond, to keep water from becoming stall and stagnet. by default these are the simplest setups for skimmer and waterfall postioning.

      will fill in more data later
      Last edited by boggen; 01-07-2007 at 06:27 AM.

    16. #36
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      digrams of placemetn of waterfalls

      dreading this one. may take some time to fill in data. partiall reason is i don't know what would be good.
      any idea's, thoughts, suggestions?

    17. #37
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      more diagrams of placement of waterfalls

      will fill in data later

    18. #38
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      bottom drain advance gap height settings. or for the home made drains and domes.
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    19. #39
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      Requests for Boggen & Justin

      Boggen, is there any way you could put all this together in a PDF or word document when you're done? It would be an easy way for us to print it all.

      JUSTIN - PLEASE MAKE SURE THIS THREAD IS BACKED UP!!!!!
      Paddle faster; I hear banjos.
      Why don't they make mouse flavored cat food?
      45ACP; don't leave home without it.



    20. #40
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      EXCEL FILES

      moving excel files off to a mini website of mine. its simply easier to update and change files as needed for myself.

      click here for info on excel files
      Last edited by boggen; 01-19-2007 at 07:13 PM.

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