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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
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    Thread: [DIY] Moving Bed bio filter / Cone bottom

    1. #21
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by c5hardtop
      Already built the drain pipe in the middle, although not glued in, so I can remove it to get other internals. Its just drilled PVC tee/pipe/cap with overflow on top.

      Curious to see how it will work since other are having problems with K1 until it ages.
      I was refering to the drain in the bottom for cleaning. Not the outflow pipe. The holes should work, if not cut some slots in a pipe, that gives a lot of area. What size pump are you using? The 2" may not handle all that with a gravity flow out. I have a 4" slotted tube to a 3" exit pipe and the water level rides high. You'll also need to screen that overflow, the floating media will go with it.

      When you first add the K1 it will float high for a day. Once all the little air bubbles get off it will start to work better then. When ripe they will perform even better.

      Garrett


    2. #22
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Harvey... So you had the WLin floating media in the MB you posted before? I got mixed up, though you were using K1 also. With sinking media, if you shut off air pump, media goes to bottom, if you have air stones/ring say 1/3 up off bottom in tank, when you cut it back on media stays on bottom. So wouldn't work unless you have air on bottom, right?

    3. #23
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Harveythekoi
      I was refering to the drain in the bottom for cleaning. Not the outflow pipe. The holes should work, if not cut some slots in a pipe, that gives a lot of area. What size pump are you using? The 2" may not handle all that with a gravity flow out. I have a 4" slotted tube to a 3" exit pipe and the water level rides high. You'll also need to screen that overflow, the floating media will go with it.

      When you first add the K1 it will float high for a day. Once all the little air bubbles get off it will start to work better then. When ripe they will perform even better.

      Garrett
      Thanks Garrett (sorry is Harvey one of your Koi?)

      OK, I have 1.5" fpt input, 2" fpt gravity out to pond, 2" for drain. I have a Sequence 3600gph that will be feeding 3 devices, 1 Moving Bed, 1 Waterfall Filer, 1 55watt UV (empties into waterfall filter also). Will have to tune the flow when I cut it on. Will only have to flow 800-1500gph, should be fine for that. From the pump I'm actually spliting output to 3 1.25" Flex tubes to each device, controled by 1.5" ball valves.

      Bottom drain is open, I realize this could be a problem on a large drainage, but I only expect to have to empty small amounts, only the top 1/3 will be K1 so I should be fine (I'm thinking ?). Tested the bottom drain with cone bottom on the microstrainer last night, works very from first test. I made the bottom drain come down from top and go out side for 2 reasons: (1) Going to be partially buried in each application anyways, (2) functions like having a cap on a drain, draws from the sides instead of strait down.

    4. #24
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Harvey was our first big Koi,

      Seemed like a good handle.

      The 5 cu ft is the ultra bio media by Ultima, then white ones pictured above, and they are sinking (it was available locally) I recently added 1 cu ft of WLims floating which is closer to K1 in shape and design. His Black Sinking and White floating are the same shape just different materials. Plus I think the salt and pepper look would be neat to watch churn.

      I like your design and want to see how it performs. Stick with it and modify as necessary. As far as the air on the bottom for sinking media that's why I only want to raise it an inch or so. Better movement for the displaced water and even the sinking media should still be active. Remember I have one of my inflow nozzles (now a tee for more flow) right near the bottom. This also helps to move the media.

      Garrett

    5. #25
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Ok, have no problems curning the K1. Noticed what others were saying about the new K1 floating. Started with some K1 out of a TT, which curned fine and added new K1 about 3 gallons at a time. Never watched it the whole time, but it stops floating in less than 2 hours at least (just soaking in bucket overnight did not work). Around 2.5 cuft of K1 in there now, had entire output from 2.3cuft air pump curing it, but cut it down by running a second line and 2 defusers to pond and adjusting ball valves. I estimate ~1.5cfm curning it fine now. Never knew bioballs would curn also, but they do, through one in to try and track how it is curning, reappears at surface about once every 8 seconds.
      Last edited by Ryan S.; 02-02-2008 at 10:27 PM.

    6. #26
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Looking good,

      Seems like a nice even roil. So is this officially on line? Or still experimenting? Keep us informed on the progress.

      Reworked the diffuser ring in mine. Raised it off the bottom about an inch. Started with a new ring that was just a little smaller in diameter because the bottom nozzle got in the way. Also found some ultra tiny drills. The one I used was probably 1/3 the size of the 1/64" bit I used before. Got about 22 holes 2" apart. It doesn't churn much different other than being distributed evenly across the barrel now. I had one hot spot that would boil up and toss media out of the barrel.

      Garrett

    7. #27
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Yes, online now. Hard to tell from still picture, but everything moving quite well now. This one air pump could probably support 2 of these, which I may do in the future. Fine bubbles working good.

    8. #28
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      Interesting. I have not yet run the test for 2 hours at a time, perhaps that is what has been my problem. I did a test with airstones this weekend, and I liked the air distribution better than any other cofiguration I have tried so far. Perhaps I just need to let it run and see what happens after a bit. What I am seeing is there is a small portion that just floats near the surface either around the discharge tube, or some around the outside, but only about 1 layer deep, and underneath it is moving quite well. I am currently using 2.3 CFM pump, which may be undersized. I really like the center discharge tube/screen I have, there was zero clumping of the media to it, I think I am going to feed the air from the top, no holes in the tank. So now I have to decide on the "water in" distribution/jets. I tried with the full power pump and 2 45 degree, which caused perhaps a bit more rotation than I was hoping for, but it did keep everything moving. I'm thinking of doing 4 in's with them aimed a little more down.
      Koiphen member since 05-13-2004
      This one time, at band camp....

    9. #29
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      I don't think the water-in makes big difference, the air is moving most of it. You still maybe close on the pump size, that is quite small for that size tank. Never heard how much media you are running? I think my 2.3cfm could handle 2 of these filters, with the 24" tanks I'm using. Your surface area is still much greater than 2 of these, so you may need more. The pump I'm using cost ~$80, have a backup and replacement diaphrams for them.

    10. #30
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      Hmmm looks good, I could probably make one of those for my upcoming pond

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