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  • Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
    Results 41 to 60 of 99

    Thread: Pond Coatings, Sealers, and Liner Options

    1. #41
      slackjeep's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy
      I'm having one fabricated as we speak...pretty excited...oval pond, 30 ft x 10 ft x 6 ft deep, 3 drains, 7 jets and 2 skimmers
      One piece, drop in...no ( well few) wrinkles...I hope.
      Really nice folks to work with.
      Do you have to give exact dimensions and BD, TPR, skimmer dimensions or do you just cut out those areas as you would with regular EPDM liner?

      I guess I can call them but I"m at work right now.

    2. #42
      kntry's Avatar
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      I was going to ask the same questions.
      Sandy
      CKK, KHA

    3. #43
      Sugarloafkoi's Avatar
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      I am going to use sani-tred on my tanks. I love the stuff. I have seen it on ponds, and used it to repair som fiberglass tanks.

      Matt
      Matt Corino

    4. #44
      Moneypit's Avatar
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      I plan on using Sani-tred on my ponds as well
      Stacey

    5. #45
      Farmboy is offline Member
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      It's just a normal liner...without the extra folds in the corners.
      Drains, jets scimmers all fitted as normal.
      The material is only 30 micron...so it's not as thick...but supposed to be tough.
      We'll see. I think it's worth a try...
      Reflecting on my project...I should've made the ends of my oval a set diameter, made the sides parallel and so made the measuring/drawing of the liner much more exact.
      I mean...imagine an oval with an overall length of 24ft. 12 feet wide in middle portion. even bottom depth... 6ft radius turns at either end....that's a snap to draw, and have it match exactly.
      Mine was made just as I felt like building it, as I went along ( much like how I live life, I guess) so the dimensions are much harder to convey to FabSeal.
      They need a center point on the top plan and then measurements out to the walls from that point.
      Then, directly below that central point....on the bottom plan, the same.
      Thus the 2 plans can be superimposed, one on the other to create a 3-d visual.

    6. #46
      Farmboy is offline Member
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      Oops..just saw Karl's question re. the cost.
      $1900
      I had a 3ft extra side flap added on all round the top edge to accomodate my design on the wall top

    7. #47
      olygirl is offline Super Member
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      more xypex stuff

      it comes in either light grey or white. i used the light grey, but added some charcoal colored concrete color. you mix it up and apply it with a big concrete brush. it sets up really fast. you need to spray it with a mist of water to keep it damp 3-4 times a day for 3 days. i am very pleased. if you are interested in pics, i am on the road right now, but when i get home i will post some pictures. this is the same stuff that luke frisbee used on his lake. my pond is 14 x 11 x 6 feet deep. it cost me about $400.00.

    8. #48
      savannahrobinson's Avatar
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      Hecht didn't work for me. Bubbled up, and didn't seal.
      "To bosom friend, to gracious host
      To those who fall, and those who lift
      To those who give, yet mark not gift
      To healing, hope, and circumstance
      To faith, to fate, to meetings chance"
      -Bob Kublin (who I have not met)

    9. #49
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Decided on Pond Armor.

      A lot of that had to do with I found a local supplier. It wasn't the cheapest but I wanted a black coating and wanted to stay away from cement products that could break down over time. Plus this is a flexible coating so that should increase it's chance of success.

      I'll post pics on my thread when I get to doing it. The mortar has to cure a bit more. I'll also report back here on ease of use and coverage etc.

      Garrett

    10. #50
      HansJ is offline Junior Member
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      I don't know anything about this liner, but I found it surfing. $1.90/sqft for custom fitted.

      http://www.pearlsofparadise.com/Pond%20Liners.htm

      Hans

    11. #51
      BobinCA is offline Senior Member
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      Hey Garrett!!

      Quote Originally Posted by Harveythekoi
      A lot of that had to do with I found a local supplier. It wasn't the cheapest but I wanted a black coating and wanted to stay away from cement products that could break down over time. Plus this is a flexible coating so that should increase it's chance of success.

      I'll post pics on my thread when I get to doing it. The mortar has to cure a bit more. I'll also report back here on ease of use and coverage etc.

      Garrett
      Did you see any inherent advantage of the pond armor product as compared to the Sani-tred products? I do know that they are both DIY projects...

      What exactly did you have to seal? I dont remember your mentioning to me that any part of your pond system needed sealing???

      Bob (in CA)

    12. #52
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      You need to check out the thread.

      The Permaflex failed on the liner fix. Not surprising as it was not what it's intended for.

      I went with the pond armor because I could get it locally. Time will tell if it was the right move.

      Garrett

    13. #53
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      HarveytheKoi on Sanitred vs Pond Armor

      In HarveythKoi's construction thread: https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12806
      See the recent posting:
      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...&page=19&pp=40

      I asked Garrett the following (I had missed BobinCa's similar question in this thread) if he could compare Sanitred Permaflex and Pond Armor coatings since he used both products on the same pond (although on different substrates).

      Garrett replied:
      "Having used both and knowing some or all of you are coating block or other rough surfaces I'd have to say Sanitred would be the easier of the two. If the surfaces were smooth it would be a toss up.

      Both need to be mixed and have a limited working time. Sanitred seems a little thinner when first mixed, more like paint, and will go on fairly fast. It's a three part process though, primer, filler and then finish coat. And the rougher the surface the more product you'll need. I believe the coats need to applied within a certain time frame, once fully cured it won't bond to itself.

      Pond Armor is a little thicker when first mixed and really needs to be rolled or squeegied on to get it thin. This is important to get the max coverage. But the problems I had with it pin holing on a rough surface probably would happen on block too. Plus all the mortar joints would eat up more product. As for applying other coats after curing this product seems like it would work better.

      Both should be applied over a dry cured surface so allow a month after the last of the concrete work.

      Pipe penetrations do need to be addressed. I wouldn't feel comfortable using either directly onto plastic and expecting a permanent bond. All these situations are different and need to be addressed individually.

      To save on either product a skim coat could be put over the rough block or concrete. A plaster type product would have to be used because of the really fine sand. (I think that's what they're doing to Stephens pond to avoid pin holes)

      As far as finish I like the Pond Armor, the epoxy coat seems bullet proof. Some of the Sanitred that was on the rock and concrete work I was able to peel off when demoing it. It stayed pretty rubbery and didn't bond all that well. Part of this I'm sure was the prep done to the old mortar work etc.

      One thing I will say about these or any coating is the prep work on the surface is important, let me repeat, it's important. Don't just expect to mix and apply without serious work put into that. I'd go so far as a wash with Phosphoric acid to eat any concrete dust up. For an older surface I'd use Muratic to etch it deeper.

      Hope I answered your questions.

      Garrett"

      PondArmor, rightfully so, emphasizes the following:
      " Garrett is absolutely correct when he emphasizes PREP work....You job is only going to be as good as your prep. Don't be in a rush at any stage of your project, no matter what that stage is."

      - Wayne, will camp out in his pond after it is sealed.
      Last edited by Ronin-Koi; 04-09-2006 at 08:26 PM.
      Wayne - Ohio, USA - Koiphen MVP.

    14. #54
      PondArmor is offline Member
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      Hi, Ronin-Koi has invited me to come here and post a little more information about Pond Shield. It's tough for a manufacturer to post in threads such as these because first and foremost these forums are for community information sharing and sometimes the moderators frown on us posting in a manner that emulates advertising. With that said, I will be happy to answer any questions any of you have about Pond Armor products. You can either ask them here or PM and ask there. If you PM I will be happy to give you my 800 number and you can contact me that way as well. If any of you would like a small sample of Pond Shield, just PM and we'll make arrangements.

      I know there are a few things that everyone is concerned about when it comes to choosing the correct coating. I will stress again that your finished job will only be as good as your prep work (acid etching, sanding, cleaning, etc.). Once you finish your prep work you are left with the abilities of the coating to serve you and your pond in the years to come. Pond Shield has been designed for very long life, in fact if you prepare the surface area properly and you apply the coating properly there is no reason why you cannot get 25+ years of service out of it. (Amortize your cost of materials now) All you need to do is make sure nothing adversely affects the coating. Like a tree pushing its roots up through the pond or something of the like.

      I have been asked how well Pond Shield bonds to the surface it is applied to. We did extensive lab testing and found that when tested, the tensile bond strength exceeded the internal strength of the concrete it was applied to. Simply put, when we tried to pull the cured epoxy off, the concrete broke apart instead. What this means for a consumer is that where other coatings can peel or crack off, Pond Shield is designed not to. If you ask me for a sample, you will get an unmixed sample that you can mix and try for yourself.

      Pond Shield is also non-toxic. We specifically have it tested in its mixed uncured state to ensure anyone applying it and filling their pond before it cures will not have to worry about harming their fish or plant life. We state in our instructions that one should wait 72 hours before filling their pond. This was written this way to ensure that the coating had cured before water and fish were put in only because introducing water before curing takes place can and I emphasize can cause an epoxy blush. Epoxy blush is nothing serious and can easily be corrected, but I mention the 72 hour instruction so those who are familiar with our instructions understand this not to be an inconsistency.

      Garret mention that he felt Pond Shield (Pond Armor is the company name) is pretty bullet proof. Though we have not tested that is does cure into a hard enough shell to resist strike damage but still retain enough elasticity as to not mimic hairline cracks that can form in concrete or mortar. If for instance, you had a tree push through your pond, you could do repairs and then spot touch up Pond Shield. It would not be necessary to recoat the entire pond.

      Some North Eastern people shy away from concrete ponds. There is always worry about expansion and contraction and the like and of course the worry of a coating failure. Pond Shield has been tested down to -78 degrees F and up to 140 degrees F. It withstood the punishment.

      Pond Shield is designed to be thick. Thick enough to be applied on vertical or upside-down surfaces and cure out at the 10 mil thickness that you applied at. Pond Shield does not have to be applied thicker to work. It just shouldn't be applied thinner than the recommended 10 mils. It does not require any primer or sealer to work. It has been designed as a stand alone product.

      Finally, for this post anyways, is cost. $74.95 per quart and a half kit which covers 60 square feet at 10 mils. That's $1.24 per square foot. It may not be the least expensive material out there but not always is the least expensive, the best material. Again, amortize the cost out over 25 years and see what you have then. We also provide excellent customer support whether you purchased through us or one of our retailers. If you have questions, we will be there to answer them. If you are having difficulty, again, we will be there to help. Not all ponds are created equal. Evaluate your pond and its needs as well as your own needs and what you expect from the pond once it is finished.

      If you have any other questions, please let me know.

    15. #55
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Pond Shield it is.....

      Sorry for any confusion.

      I have to comment on the bonding though: After recently coating my small upper pond I had to rework some rocks because of flow dynamics. I was using a diamond grinder and had to cut across some of the recently applied Pond Shield. It didn't budge. You could clearly see the cross section where it bonded and there was no delamination. So this stuff in fact does bond that well.

      Garrett

    16. #56
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      Anyone have anything to add to this thread?
      Stacey

    17. #57
      Meg is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit
      Anyone have anything to add to this thread?
      to late, your sani-tred is on the truck heading your way :neener:

    18. #58
      dcny is offline Senior Member
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      Maybe Kent could add something about Lava Liner.

    19. #59
      Moneypit's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Meg
      to late, your sani-tred is on the truck heading your way :neener:
      Yes it is I can't wait Meg did you have to acid wash your block and concrete before applying the Sanitred
      Stacey

    20. #60
      Meg is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit
      Yes it is I can't wait Meg did you have to acid wash your block and concrete before applying the Sanitred

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