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    Results 21 to 40 of 99

    Thread: Pond Coatings, Sealers, and Liner Options

    1. #21
      schildkoi is offline Inactivated
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      Preform fiberglass pools

      One consideration is that they do not have to support vertical wieght and have a 3' wide concrete collar/walk around them. A tad bit different than the typical pond with more wieght at the edges due to landscaping/rock.

      I am currently looking into this option for myself but woild also plan a structural concrete collar.

      Steve

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    2. #22
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      Rendering

      Quote Originally Posted by BobinCA
      The Permaflex product would be the first coat....acting as a primer coat. You would follow that up with the use of LRB + TAV to fill any joints/seams. Permaflex, then, would be the third coat or top coat bonding to both the LRB and the primer coat as well. The primer coat of Permaflex mechanically bonds to the concrete or blocks. Subsequent coats of either LRB/tav and Permaflex all molecularly bond to each other.
      Hi Bob, Yes I understand the different functions of the different Sanitred components thanks in large part to your excellent thread on Sanitred. My question had to do with rendering and whether or not additives (such as acrylics and other products that might typically be added to make the cement or concrete "stickier" with less sag for rendering) might inhibit Permaflex's ability to "bond" into the concrete. I'm assuming it bonds by flowing into pore space?!

      - Wayne, will call Sanitred and find out what they recommend.
      Wayne - Ohio, USA - Koiphen MVP.

    3. #23
      Daz 1 is offline Senior Member
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      I have finish a pond thats not on your list and i don`t know if it`s been used over there which is polypropylene, 6m thick and mine was installed on site on a standard concrete base,backfilled with concrete and filled with water at the same time, above ground was a case of following the liner with bricks and blocks.
      Dave.
      Attached Images Attached Images     

    4. #24
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      Very nice

      Quote Originally Posted by Daz 1
      I have finish a pond thats not on your list and i don`t know if it`s been used over there which is polypropylene, 6m thick and mine was installed on site on a standard concrete base,backfilled with concrete and filled with water at the same time, above ground was a case of following the liner with bricks and blocks.
      Dave.
      Dave,
      That's the first pond I'ver seen built that way... very impressive. Is this a common method of pond building over in the UK? It looks like the polypropylene is a preformed shape? Or do you get sheets and somehow seam them together? It has a very nice clean look. Also, your above ground wall looks pretty tall. How tall is it and how deep total? How many gallons?

      My favorite part of course is that large viewing window! I didn't think one would be possible on mine when I originally planned on EPDM liner... but now that Sanitred is starting to look more like my preferred option... hmmm!

      - Wayne, Thanks Dave for sharing his awesome pond.
      Wayne - Ohio, USA - Koiphen MVP.

    5. #25
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      Quote Originally Posted by Daz 1
      I have finish a pond thats not on your list and i don`t know if it`s been used over there which is polypropylene, 6m thick and mine was installed on site on a standard concrete base,backfilled with concrete and filled with water at the same time, above ground was a case of following the liner with bricks and blocks.
      Dave.
      Must have more pictures, that is way nice....

    6. #26
      Daz 1 is offline Senior Member
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      It`s not overly common over here but it`s now taking off.
      My pond is 8000 gallons(uk) i have attached a few more pics of the installation to give you a better idea of how it went together.
      Dave.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    7. #27
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      Sanitred

      Wayne,

      You have got me curious about Sanitred, I have been looking around on the net and I do not find allot about using it for a pond sealer mostly basements, is there a track record of it being used as a pond sealer?
      I have been planning on using CIM1000 on mine but if there is another product that is less expensive and will work as well I might consider it

      Stacey

    8. #28
      Meg is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit
      Wayne,

      You have got me curious about Sanitred, I have been looking around on the net and I do not find allot about using it for a pond sealer mostly basements, is there a track record of it being used as a pond sealer?
      I have been planning on using CIM1000 on mine but if there is another product that is less expensive and will work as well I might consider it

      Stacey
      check out gOOse's pond on the construction site, it looks great! or Bob in CA...WoW! what a pond he's got

    9. #29
      Dwight is offline Senior Member
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      Wayne asked for this so now he has to do an update.
      The plaster over concrete I'm using is exactly the same process as swimming pool plaster. It's powdered marble with Portland cement ( don't know ratios ). It's applied by gun , like gunnite , or by hand like stucco or wall plaster. It's pretty cheep compared to polyurea and epoxy and can last 20+ yrs. Our simming pool is 20 yrs old and still holding water fine. We got an estimate on replastering it ( stains and hairline cracks in the surface ) and it was $2000 to prep and replaster the whole pool ( 18,000 gal ). I imagine a small application like a small pond could be done by an ameture but I'm not willing to try. The stuff is really tuff as anyone with a pool can attest to. It can be sanded , brushed and acid washed. The biggest drawback I see is it takes forever to get rid of all the marble dust and for the pH to stabalize ( forever is measured in weeks ). The normal application is to wait for the concrete shell to dry enough to stabalize , usually a day or two depending on humidity and temperature. The plaster is then applied to a wet ( with a hose ) concrete surface and allowed to dry for 12 to 24 hrs. The pond / pool is then filled and the plaster finishes curing underwater. I usually wait another 24 hrs and add a massive oherdose ou muratic acid ( dilute HCl ) and this helps with the suspended marble. You can add color to the plaster ( all of ours is dark grey ) which mwkes it even more usefull. I've seen it done in a dark marble tone that made it very hard to believe it was plaster and not some form of rock.
      Dwight

    10. #30
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      mud ponds.... hhmmsss just mud / clay holding water

      i realize concrete itself hasn't been label beyond having it plastered / stucko etc.... there are many additives that can be added...

      --coloring
      --pebbles / color rocks etc...
      --fiberglass strands... used to help strengthen concrete itself to make it stronger. pending on application rebar may not be required. ((fiber glass strands can stick out and scrap you. most applications seen some sort of rendering of plaster / stucko / what not applied over))
      --sealers mixed directly into mixing the concrete. not applied over type but mixed directly into concrete during pouring / applying. (( be carefull some sealers can be extremely harmfull to you or your fish. if not covered over))

      concrete in itself gains strength / hardens over time. try and break 4" concrete just put in 1 year ago to something thats been put in 20 years ago. and you might be breaking out the jack hammer for the older concrete.

      concrete in itself can crack from setteling and movement of the ground from freezing and thawing through the seasons. needing to get below frost line is suggestion to keep less cracks happening.

      rebar is used in most situations. this is deal with bending (forget word) so when the ground does move the concrete moves without cracking.

      concrete has a high ((duh forgot name)) that is within the concrete and gets released over time. using mutric acid will get rid of most but not all of the stuff and it will be relased over time as the concrete cures. during this time of curing = widely swinging PH happens from lows to highs. after a couple years the concrete will end up acting as a natural buffer keeping the PH at a non stop constant.

      concrete by itself will not hold water directly. and normally needs some sort of sealer either mixed into the concrete during pouring or something applied over it.


      rebar work, is easy enough DIYer doing
      pouring the concrete for a DIYer, normally means either renting a mixer and having a few burly boys around to do the wheel barrowing and dealing with mixer. its sought to do a complete concrete job all at once and not portion of say a bottom then a day later do abit more. but doing say the bottom all at once. then doing the sides all at once.

      block work. gets away from doing things all at once and goes more to a DIYer doing being able to do a little at a time and not having 3 plus folks around to help you out.

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    11. #31
      Floyd is offline Junior Member
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      Actually the info listed RE: Sani-Tred products are incorrect.

      • “Recommended thickness 20 mils”? That's not correct
      • Life Time Warranty (over 20 years history). Products will never bubble, chip, peel, crack, delaminate, or leak for the life of the structure.

      All that is necessary is 2 coats of PermaFlex (240 sq’ per gal) and patching where you need it.

      • BobinCA evidently “opted” to apply the LRB/TAV mixture over the entire surface of his pond which is fine, but in this case “excessive”. This upped his price per sq’. If the gunnite applicators troweled the surface smoother or if someone used a flat squeegee when applying the LRB/TAV mixture the product consumption would be drastically cut. BobinCA over-applied for “his peace of mind”. Some believe “thicker the better”; sure but still not necessary.

      • Price per gal = $80.85 (shipping not included; depends on quantity/weight)
      • $00.67 per sq’ for 2 coats of PermaFlex (based on 5 gal pricing)
      • LRB/TAV mixture is for patching joints, seams, cracks, holes, rough areas

      The Sani-Tred application is extremely simple:
      1. Prime using 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq’ per gal)
      2. Patch joints, seams, cracks with LRB/TAV mixture
      3. Topcoat with 1 coat of PermaFlex (240 sq’ per gal)

      ~Overall thickness is approx 14 mils (2 coats PermaFlex)

      The only difference from one pond to another is simply the size (sq’) and the amount of patching required (if any).

      EXAMPLE ~ BEFORE:
      http://www.sanitred.com/101-0186_IMG.JPG

      PRIME:
      http://www.sanitred.com/c.JPG

      PATCH:
      http://www.sanitred.com/D.JPG

      TOPCOAT ~ Finished:
      http://www.sanitred.com/IM000139.JPG

    12. #32
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      I used SaniTred on a inside plywood tank and it works great. I tapered the bottom so it slopes to the drain. I had a few cracks in the plywood bottom where the joints meet and used a filler that was a portland cement and acrylic mix. The SaniTred bondrd to it just fine.

      Other Sites Sale prices are our everyday prices.
      Vice President Oregon Koi and Watergarden Society


    13. #33
      MrHusband is offline Senior Member
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      Any pics before and after water?

      Quote Originally Posted by Billy
      I used SaniTred on a inside plywood tank and it works great. I tapered the bottom so it slopes to the drain. I had a few cracks in the plywood bottom where the joints meet and used a filler that was a portland cement and acrylic mix. The SaniTred bondrd to it just fine.
      Any pics before and after water?

    14. #34
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      Coming soon to a thread near you.
      Quote Originally Posted by MrHusband
      Any pics before and after water?

      Other Sites Sale prices are our everyday prices.
      Vice President Oregon Koi and Watergarden Society


    15. #35
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      bump

    16. #36
      Eric Marsh's Avatar
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      GatorGard is a polyurea formulation. I don't know exactly what their formulation is but I believe that it may be a polyurea/polyurethane hybrid. When I get some time I'll try to double check and see whether that is true or not. I expect that GatorGard prices are more or less in line with other polyurea prices.

    17. #37
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      xypex

      i used xypex. i have a concrete block walled pond with a poured concrete bottom. i used xypex, and am very pleased with the result. you can check it out at www.hi-dry.com. catherine

    18. #38
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by olygirl
      i used xypex. i have a concrete block walled pond with a poured concrete bottom. i used xypex, and am very pleased with the result. you can check it out at www.hi-dry.com. catherine
      What color is it? Or does it just leave the original color of the concrete or mortar?

      Funny this thread should come back up as I'm looking to seal my top pond I fixed by mortaring it all.

      Was thinking of three:

      Drylok paint. Though I'm not to pleased with their techsupport.

      Sanitred, cost is high and have to wait three weeks or more for the mortar to cure.

      Thoroghseal, I like this option because it's fairly cheap and can be dyed black with normal concrete dyes. Plus it can be applied to newly done concrete.

      Garrett

    19. #39
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      Quote Originally Posted by Karl Schoeler
      The one option not mentioned on this thread is Fabseal. Drop-in 30 ml rubber liners. I used one for an indoor holding tank. Very nice. Tough too. I'm considering it for my pond rebuild as they can make it any way I want it. Think of it: DIY! Inexpensive! No folds! Easy to hook up skimmers, bottom drains, and anything else.

      http://www.fabseal.com
      This looks interesting, however, what I read is they make it into a flat sheet. How then would you avoid folds in a pond?

    20. #40
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      I'm having one fabricated as we speak...pretty excited...oval pond, 30 ft x 10 ft x 6 ft deep, 3 drains, 7 jets and 2 skimmers
      One piece, drop in...no ( well few) wrinkles...I hope.
      Really nice folks to work with.

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