I am going to get you started in the right direction hopefully. The first thing to know is that the water needs to be tested frequently, at least until you have completed the cycle, where ammonia is zero and nitrites are zero. To do that I recommend the use of the API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT and the use of the API KH test kit. A good high, above 90ppm (5 drops), on the Kh test is required to have a stable pH. With that KH your pH should be around 8.3, so use the high range pH test from the master test kit, not the wide range pH test. It requires fish to produce the ammonia that will be converted by bacteria first to nitrites and then to nitrates. Ammonia and nitrite should be zero, but with each addition of fish or increase in feed will increase the amount of ammonia produced and then it is up to the filter bacteria to perform the conversions and eventually reach a stable cycled pond. This will typically take 6 to 8 weeks, and during this cycling, green water algae will be consuming large portions of the ammonia and nitrite, and once the pond has cycled, the pond will clear as if by magic.
The other thing that koi keepers have found is that rock in the pond are not beneficial and actually detrimental to being able to keep the pond clean as debris and detritis will hide in the rocks and deteriorate producing noxious poisonous hydrogen sulfide. Carpet algae will cover the liner, and it will cover the rocks, so the bottom will look similar with or without rocks, and the volume of the rocks is volume that could be additional water.
Zone 7 A/B
Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
Richard