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  • Results 1 to 8 of 8

    Thread: DIY pond build infinity glass corner style advice

    1. #1
      Rikcoshay is offline Junior Member
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      DIY pond build infinity glass corner style advice

      Building a diy pond but I'm not sure what kind of glass to get for the viewing windows or how thick they should be. It will br 8ftx5ftx3ft but I'm planning on using two infinity style glass panels that will be connected to one another via silicon as the walls for the front and left side. The pond will roughly be 1000 gallons. What type of glass (le laminated, tempered etc) should l use if i have cool winters to avoid water expanding and cracking? Also how thick should the glass be to withstand the pressure of the water? The glass will be 8ftx2ft and 5ft x 2ft Thanks for any help. And could anyone point me in the direction of any US sites that might sell said glass

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    2. #2
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      I can't remember sites, but there are sites that provide aquarium design advise, giving glass thickness based on depth and length of walls. I think I would look into having some form of angle iron for the bottom supports to help restrict longitudinal bending, allow for a place for liner to be tucked in with silicone or similar adhesive to make the joint waterproof.
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    3. #3
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      Oh man. Silicone is a sealant, NOT an adhesive! You need to do more research on glass adhesives and large tank construction before undertaking this build. If I could give you any more specific advice, I would. Not sure this is even viable given how far north you live. Bringing the salt concentration in the water up to 0.3% - 0.4% in the winter will definitely help deter ice formation, as will surface agitation from air stones (like whatever you're putting over your bottom drain).

      A number of people have done builds with a viewing window, you can find those by searching.

    4. #4
      aquaholic is offline Supporting Member
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      Actually there is structural silicone (used for bonding huge heavy sheets of glass in skyscrapers) as well as sealant silicone. Check the technical data sheets. Polyeurathane (PU) adhesives and hybrid silicones are even stronger and becoming more popular in large glass aquaria.

      I've no experience with cold climates but imagine a tilted wall installation instead of vertical sides would be a simple practical contingency against ice expansion. The ice would pop up instead of breaking sides.

      On my viewing panels I used laminate tempered glass but I protected the fragile edges and waterproofed the laminate layer. Tempered glass will flex a scary amount safely but shatter if the cut edge is knocked hard enough. PVB and EVA is more probe to delamination near moisture. ( I used SGP ) and I would recommend you use an aluminium or stainless angle if you want an infinity edge. The fish are likely to jump out and water dribble stains should be considered.

      My glass is 2m deep though. Water pressure at 60cm is not much so your glass doesn't have to be particularly difficult.
      Last edited by aquaholic; 04-10-2025 at 12:02 AM.

    5. #5
      SethF is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by aquaholic View Post
      Actually there is structural silicone (used for bonding huge heavy sheets of glass in skyscrapers) as well as sealant silicone. Check the technical data sheets. Polyeurathane (PU) adhesives and hybrid silicones are even stronger and becoming more popular in large glass aquaria.

      I've no experience with cold climates but imagine a tilted wall installation instead of vertical sides would be a simple practical contingency against ice expansion. The ice would pop up instead of breaking sides.

      On my viewing panels I used laminate tempered glass but I protected the fragile edges and waterproofed the laminate layer. Tempered glass will flex a scary amount safely but shatter if the cut edge is knocked hard enough. PVB and EVA is more probe to delamination near moisture. ( I used SGP ) and I would recommend you use an aluminium or stainless angle if you want an infinity edge. The fish are likely to jump out and water dribble stains should be considered.

      My glass is 2m deep though. Water pressure at 60cm is not much so your glass doesn't have to be particularly difficult.
      Any pics/vids of what you've done?

      Where did you get your frames?

      Sandwiched?

      Steel or aluminum?

      Glass source?

      Thanks in advance!

    6. #6
      aquaholic is offline Supporting Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by SethF View Post
      Any pics/vids of what you've done?

      Where did you get your frames?

      Sandwiched?

      Steel or aluminum?

      Glass source?

      Thanks in advance!
      Why don't you contact and collaborate with the original poster who is in the US and doing similar?

      If your set on infinity ledge without frame then do that. Look at UK pond builds if you can't find american ponds or american swim pools. Once you know what is necessary then you can source or self build.

      If you are unable to build it yourself then get trades to build.

      I am happy to answer your questions but our technical situations are different.

      Not sure what sandwiched is.

      I designed my own frames to allow for crane access and edge clamp lift for the installation process as my glass panels were very large (600kg each). I was self installing.

      I had the steel frame made, commercial grade epoxy coating to waterproof the steel and prevent rust. I am using magnesium sacrificial anodes on the steel just in case as the tank is too deep to drain and repaint very easily.

      I self imported glass to my own recipe from China. The cheapest quote from Australian supplier was $120,000 for the glass and not to the specification I wanted. Chinese quality and chinese factory was fantastic despite some technical jargon hiccups.

      I used DOW 795 silicone for glass to steel and steel to epoxy membrane coated concrete as I wanted 50% modulus (flexibility) - not too soft or too hard. The glass is held off the steel with 6mm EPDM rubber strips (UV resistant).
      Last edited by aquaholic; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:52 AM.

    7. #7
      Rikcoshay is offline Junior Member
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      How did you water proof the laminate layer and protect the fragile edges? Woudk the stainless angle be something that goes on top? I added a picture of my set up for better context

    8. #8
      aquaholic is offline Supporting Member
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      I could not see a photo in your post, could be my ineptitude though.

      Yes stainless steel is fine. Just to be clear, you don't NEED to use a frame but if your installing large heavy glass sheets, a frame makes the installation much easier with a smooth straight bedding surface all around and provides better strength and impact protection. Water proofing the laminate can be incorporated with this. However, I do see lots of pond windows on YouTube with exposed glass edges and exposed laminate. I have also seen lots of de-lamination which creeps up more and more from the edge over time and weakens the glass. Do a search for glass delamination - it's moisture that causes this especially for EVA and PVB laminates. Not only on ponds but often with skyscrapers, city buildings in warm climates.

      Water proofing the laminate edge can be as simple as applying a layer of silicone alone or adhering any waterproof covering such as plastic, glass, aluminum etc. Either angle trim or flat trim. You want to keep the moisture /water away from the exposed laminate.

      On my tank I used 70mm x 70mm plastic angle trim (1.5mm thick) along the top glass edge against any sudden impacts and waterproof the laminate. The glass panel sides and bottom were covered in silicone and already waterproof. My glass was craned into place and simply leans against the steel frame (so no recessed angle is necessary).

      GLASS WHEN EXPOSED (below)

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      GLASS WHEN COVERED (below)

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      A couple of photos during the build

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      Name:  Tank Build Mess.jpg
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      Name:  Tank Fill Test.jpg
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