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  • Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: What's going on with my fish? Parasites? Fungal/Bacterial?

    1. #1
      Tanyaclick is offline Member
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      What's going on with my fish? Parasites? Fungal/Bacterial?

      Hey guys, I've got some fish with a red infected scale on each. I've got some red fins on white fish. I've got some scales turning silver on several fish. White fishes red veins are out, more than usual. I've scraped and scoped a couple of fish but I don't know if I see anything. Check out these videos I made of the scopes. I'd love to be illuminated.

      https://youtu.be/Wb01dV9PwVs?si=7QHsuuQHm0IE3PJ_

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    2. #2
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      Watching

      What magnification?

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      10 x mostly. My scope has 40x as well but I can never get it to work.

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      fly4koi is offline Senior Member
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      Can't see clear parasite movement, you might need better magnification. Shotgun routine is 3 daily dose of Proform-C followed by 2 weekly dose of Fluke-M.
      How's your water parameter? If it's hitting multiple fish and water is fine then parasite is probable.

    5. #5
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      You are looking on the surface of your fish for problems!

      But your fish appear to be reflecting an internal bacterial problem with white fish,

      red veins protruding.

      Red fins on a white fish.

      Are the fish jumping or flashing on the bottom or sides?

      Are they skulking on the bottom?

      Are they piping for air on the surface?

      Have you tested your water with an up to date drop test kit?

      They all have these peculiar problems that you see,but how are they behaving when

      you feed them?

      Stop feeding them for a couple of days and monitor them, see if they start looking

      for another food source,off the walls maybe,carpet algae.

      I would love to be illuminated????

      You, or improve your microscopes brightness.

      Is it the correct wattage globe?

      Can you raise the condenser "clear glass lens" up,closer to the magnified specimen?

      The specimen is on top of the adjustable up and down table

      Maybe you are not getting enough light for the 40 magnification lens to show you

      the specimen on the table.

      GOOGLE Microscope condenser. See schematic drawings and try working from

      them.
      Last edited by coolwon; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:14 AM.
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      Quote Originally Posted by coolwon View Post
      You are looking on the surface of your fish for problems!

      But your fish appear to be reflecting an internal bacterial problem with white fish,

      red veins protruding.

      Red fins on a white fish.

      Are the fish jumping or flashing on the bottom or sides?

      Are they skulking on the bottom?

      Are they piping for air on the surface?

      Have you tested your water with an up to date drop test kit?

      They all have these peculiar problems that you see,but how are they behaving when

      you feed them?

      Stop feeding them for a couple of days and monitor them, see if they start looking

      for another food source,off the walls maybe,carpet algae.

      I would love to be illuminated????

      You, or improve your microscopes brightness.

      Is it the correct wattage globe?

      Can you raise the condenser "clear glass lens" up,closer to the magnified specimen?

      The specimen is on top of the adjustable up and down table

      Maybe you are not getting enough light for the 40 magnification lens to show you

      the specimen on the table.

      GOOGLE Microscope condenser. See schematic drawings and try working from

      them.
      I haven't been feeding them much because they are heavily overstocked for their temporary pool. They do look for other food sources. One of my fish pipes a lot and has for months. The others seem to be piping at times as well. They don't seem lethargic. They follow me wherever I go along the pond and they're always swimming around looking for food.
      My test kit is about a year old and has a lot of time left on the expiration. High range pH kit is new. Ammonia test bottles are new.
      I'm thinking part of this could be stress as I did move them recently to a bigger temporary pool that is more protected and inside my screened in patio. We're still figuring out exactly how we want to build the pond so they're going to have to stay in there a while. It's 28 koi in 1600 gallons ��
      I know that's way too much. My filter finally cycled once we got out of winter. The ammonia and nitrite levels have been consistent. I plan to do a big water change tomorrow to get all the medication out. I was considering putting salt in after the water change. I've also been thinking about setting up a second pool to split the fish up. But I'd probably want to build thr filter first and add it to the existing pond for a while so the bacteria can get a Jumpstart. I'm not sure what the right moves are. I'm still very new. I do love my pets and we're going to build a 10,000 gallon pond for them once we figure out all.the options.

    7. #7
      fly4koi is offline Senior Member
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      I wouldn't salt unless there's a reason. What is the medication that you are trying to remove?

      Another idea is that instead of separating into 2 pools, use that additional body of water and circulate between them, maybe like a 2" PVC pipe that's fully filled with water so that it can balance the water level between the pools, that way you don't need to have separate filter setup. You are way overstocked I don't think this is doing them any good, maybe even add a lot of aeration to the water to compensate.

      Ammonia needs to be at 0, so does nitrite, any amount is stressing the fish.
      Last edited by fly4koi; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:21 AM.

    8. #8
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Do you have an air pump turning over the surface water, to allow the oxygen in the air

      above to dissolve and replenish what the fish and filter are using up.

      Air pumps with an air stone to match the air pumps delivered liter-age are more

      important than the water pump circulating the water around the pond.

      It's function is to feed the filer,surface skim dirt and direct dirt in a vortex to the

      bottom drains.

      Rolled over and no disturbed surface water introducing oxygen into the water

      is what creates an overstocked pond.

      Air pumps are treated as an expense and a hindrance, l cant see the fish.

      You could probably get away with a 40 liter air pump and two 200mm or 8" flat pan

      air stones.

      Air pumps fail when they cannot get rid of all the air they are designed to pump.

      This creates a high pressure and generates more heat than the rubber/neoprene

      diaphragms are designed for.

      Keep your air pump out of direct sunlight.

      The heat will burn out the transformer of some cheaper makes of air pumps

      These small round air stones are not really suitable for larger air pumps
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      Quote Originally Posted by fly4koi View Post
      I wouldn't salt unless there's a reason. What is the medication that you are trying to remove?

      Another idea is that instead of separating into 2 pools, use that additional body of water and circulate between them, maybe like a 2" PVC pipe that's fully filled with water so that it can balance the water level between the pools, that way you don't need to have separate filter setup. You are way overstocked I don't think this is doing them any good, maybe even add a lot of aeration to the water to compensate.

      Ammonia needs to be at 0, so does nitrite, any amount is stressing the fish.
      Proform-C mainly. Several of the fish have lighter scales than usual or scales that have turned silver or silver around the edges. They're also bumping into each other a lot which is why I was thinking of separating them. Alternatively I can get much bigger pool and move all of them. We were supposed to be breaking ground which is why they all went in there

    10. #10
      Tanyaclick is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by coolwon View Post
      Do you have an air pump turning over the surface water, to allow the oxygen in the air

      above to dissolve and replenish what the fish and filter are using up.

      Air pumps with an air stone to match the air pumps delivered liter-age are more

      important than the water pump circulating the water around the pond.

      It's function is to feed the filer,surface skim dirt and direct dirt in a vortex to the

      bottom drains.

      Rolled over and no disturbed surface water introducing oxygen into the water

      is what creates an overstocked pond.

      Air pumps are treated as an expense and a hindrance, l cant see the fish.

      You could probably get away with a 40 liter air pump and two 200mm or 8" flat pan

      air stones.

      Air pumps fail when they cannot get rid of all the air they are designed to pump.

      This creates a high pressure and generates more heat than the rubber/neoprene

      diaphragms are designed for.

      Keep your air pump out of direct sunlight.

      The heat will burn out the transformer of some cheaper makes of air pumps

      These small round air stones are not really suitable for larger air pumps
      Yes we have good Aeration hooked up.

      AquaMiracle Pond Aeration Kit Koi Pond Aerator Pond Air Pump for Pond up to 15000 Gallons Pond Deicer All-in-One Pond Aeration System with Self-Sinking Airline Flow Control Rubber Air Diffuser https://a.co/d/6lwRHpn

      I'll take a video of the setup and the fish to show you guys.

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    11. #11
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Specification reads 18 Watt air pump.

      2 x 3/8 " air lines.

      Probably a 20 liter air pump,which is rated at 20 watts if you read the specs of different

      makes of air pumps that are advertised around town.

      Have you had it from the first pond start up?

      Does it look like it is turning a lot of water over?

      How deep is your pond?

      They have habit of underrating water pumps, and these in the pond filters.
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    12. #12
      Tanyaclick is offline Member
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      Yeah it puts out a lot of bubbles. The pool is 2 ft deep

    13. #13
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      It's the one my pond guy recommended for the 10,000 gallon pond we're building
      Last edited by Tanyaclick; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:23 PM.

    14. #14
      Tanyaclick is offline Member
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      Here is a video of the fish and setup



      https://youtu.be/T3TnNDrkuHk?si=wfGvKQPyrbeL37NY

    15. #15
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      I think you have more than enough breaking water surface movement.

      With the fountain submersibles and the air stone you raised up out of the water.

      Your fish look very happy,glad to see you and please, could you give us some food.

      Koi have no stomach,therefore they should be fed small amounts of food 3,4 or 5 times a

      day.

      To gauge how much food, just enough food to last 4 or 5 minutes on the surface with

      each feed time.

      A comfortable set up for your fish.

      Keep on top of the water parameters.

      If you start feeding a little more.

      You are the best judge of the state of the water and health of each fish,day to day.



      Last edited by coolwon; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:01 PM.
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