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  • Results 1 to 5 of 5

    Thread: Cleaning matala with air?

    1. #1
      Enrgizerbunny is offline Senior Member
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      Cleaning matala with air?

      Currently I have a DIY filter with 6 layers of matala, bioballs, and oyster shells (for buffering). I want to move my filter and upgrade to two barrels (mechanical and bio). Currently I remove the media and clean with a hose before flushing the water until it runs clear. I was thinking about installing an air manifold in the next filter design similar to a S&G to hopefully clear the media in place. Has anyone tried this? Anyone think it'll work?

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    2. #2
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Upgrade your hosepipe method to a water high pressure cleaner, with the water supply

      pipe connected to your pond water pump.Alternatively to a drop in submersible water

      pump.

      This will be more effective due to the higher water pressure and the pond water, with the

      disinfectants to make it suitable for human consumption eliminated.

      Such chemicals namely chlorine or chloramines which are fed into the water systems at

      the water treatment plants.

      These chemicals are deadly to the bacteria which inhabit your filter.

      These chemicals burn the fishes gills if not neutralized during your water changes.

      The bacteria consume the ammonia which your

      fish exude during their every day life.

      Nitrite is a by product of ammonia,which is also detrimental to your fishes health.

      Water pressure cleaners set at a low pressure, with the media removed,

      dislodge dirt through the filter media openings out and away.

      Air just dislodges and rolls up the dirt in the filter to clog it higher up.

      Air does not have much effect,cleaning your windscreen.

      Water and wipers have cleaned windscreens nearly forever!

      Watch the auto cleaner racing back and forth on solar panels with wipers and water.

      The dirt finishes where it started.
      Last edited by coolwon; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:44 AM.

    3. #3
      Enrgizerbunny is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by coolwon View Post
      This will be more effective due to the higher water pressure and the pond water, with the

      disinfectants to make it suitable for human consumption eliminated.

      Such chemicals namely chlorine or chloramines which are fed into the water systems at

      the water treatment plants.

      These chemicals are deadly to the bacteria which inhabit your filter.

      These chemicals burn the fishes gills if not neutralized during your water changes.
      I have well water with no chlorine, just a low pH from the tap that rises with time. It's a dissolved gas of some sort.

      The idea I had in mind is this:
      My filter currently flows top to bottom, meaning the finer media is on the bottom. Since my hose just knocks loose the debris that are caught in the media, I thought air could have the same effect especially in reverse the direction of flow. Since it is rising from a finer media to a coarser media it should not get clogged on the way up. If I added a valve and reversed the flow of the filter in conjunction with the air and just let it over flow the barrel it would be messy, but it seems a way to test my theory using my current filter. If this was effective it would make it easier for me to justify building a S&G filter instead of using my current bio balls in a separate barrel.


      Has anyone tried this with anything besides a S&G filter?
      Last edited by Enrgizerbunny; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:36 AM.

    4. #4
      *Ci*'s Avatar
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      I have 2 S&G filters and 2 upflow static barrels filled with matala chunks and big mesh bags of k1 type plastics and bioballs, so not layers per say.
      All are cleaned the same way - the have air manifolds at the bottom and I have my blower arranged so I can attach it to any of the filters to clean. I have a bleed valve on the blower because the static bio filters don’t take as much pressure to ‘boil’ as the S&Gs.

      I have dedicated exit fittings near the top of the filters so I can pipe the waste water to the garden - preferable to just letting the barrel overflow.

      It is definitely an effective way to clean, however I don’t think it would work as well if the matala was flat in layers. On edge would be better. In fact, they sell Matala “Rounds”, which are rolled up to fit into a barrel, on edge, they recommended cleaning them with a water flush.
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    5. #5
      Enrgizerbunny is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by *Ci* View Post
      I have 2 S&G filters and 2 upflow static barrels filled with matala chunks and big mesh bags of k1 type plastics and bioballs, so not layers per say.
      All are cleaned the same way - the have air manifolds at the bottom and I have my blower arranged so I can attach it to any of the filters to clean. I have a bleed valve on the blower because the static bio filters don’t take as much pressure to ‘boil’ as the S&Gs.

      I have dedicated exit fittings near the top of the filters so I can pipe the waste water to the garden - preferable to just letting the barrel overflow.

      It is definitely an effective way to clean, however I don’t think it would work as well if the matala was flat in layers. On edge would be better. In fact, they sell Matala “Rounds”, which are rolled up to fit into a barrel, on edge, they recommended cleaning them with a water flush.
      I looked into the rounds when I bought sheets. Unfortunately the barrels I'm using have an opening smaller than the diameter of the barrel because of the screw on top which allows me to flow top to bottom. The rounds will not likely fit through. I think I can set up my current design to include an air manifold and reverse the flow of the water to a waste outlet in order to see if it works with them in the current configuration.

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