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  • Results 1 to 19 of 19

    Thread: Cloudy pond not clearing up

    1. #1
      biganth is offline Junior Member
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      Cloudy pond not clearing up

      I recently added an Oase ScreenMatic with UV to my pond and after a week the pond was looking significantly clearer. I did a 50% water change and added Microbe-Lift PL due to a nitrite spike. After 3 days I turned the UV back on and now more than a week later the pond hasn't cleared up at all.

      The filter is still working, removing a normal amount of debris but the water level has never risen to fully cover the media. The manual mentions that this is normal and it will take 3-4 weeks for the water to rise. I'm past 4 weeks and the water level is the same as on day 1. I also haven't cleaned the sponges yet although I'm at the recommended time to clean. I've held off because the water level hasn't budged and only the front sponges are dirty.

      Do I just need to clean the sponges at this point?

      Nitrite is near 0
      Ammonia 0
      PH 8.3 - it's not usually this high but has gradually been increasing since the nitrite spike
      Nitrate .125 - just started to register
      KH - 120

    2. #2
      Craigger7's Avatar
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      So not too familiar with those filters but it looks like a decent one. Dont know the size of your pond. Remember you only need to add beneficial bacteria to help mature your filters. That will take about 6-8 weeks generally. If you added baking soda to the pond, that will take the ph up to 8.3. You can add pond clay to a bucket and mix with water, then pour around your pond. This will help your mechanical filter trap finer particles.

    3. #3
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      Full sun, not enough filtration and the pond will have a hard time clearing up. If the sponges are used as bio and they are not clogging with undigested organics, I wouldn’t clean it. Ph getting higher is a sign that algae is winning.
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin

      KoiRun on YouTube, latest video:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wnm5F86BQc&t=6s

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      Quote Originally Posted by KoiRun View Post
      Full sun, not enough filtration and the pond will have a hard time clearing up. If the sponges are used as bio and they are not clogging with undigested organics, I wouldn’t clean it. Ph getting higher is a sign that algae is winning.
      Algae always wins, trust that

      Bio (beneficial bacteria) is dependent upon surface area/temp etc.

      Mechanical intervention is the only solution via CONTINUAL removal of solids/replacement of water PERIOD

      I replace 20% plus water daily, less in winter, and cover half the pond all summer

    5. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by CHICHI View Post
      Algae always wins, trust that

      Bio (beneficial bacteria) is dependent upon surface area/temp etc.

      Mechanical intervention is the only solution via CONTINUAL removal of solids/replacement of water PERIOD

      I replace 20% plus water daily, less in winter, and cover half the pond all summer
      Cover half the pond in the summer, change a lot of water, good mechanical filtration, lots of surface area. Sounds great. So you beat algae (rare but algae doesn't always win).
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin

      KoiRun on YouTube, latest video:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wnm5F86BQc&t=6s

    6. #6
      biganth is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you everyone for the replies. I called Oase and they said that the water rises in the filter box as the bottom of the filters stop cleaning the water so they don't suspect anything wrong with the filter. I tested phosphates for the first time today and I'm somewhere between 5 and 10 PPM. I read in other threads on here to not worry about phosphates but I've read elsewhere that others have had fish die and the only thing that tested high was phosphates. I'm going to start doing some water changes and reduce their food to see if the phosphates improve.

    7. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by biganth View Post
      Thank you everyone for the replies. I called Oase and they said that the water rises in the filter box as the bottom of the filters stop cleaning the water so they don't suspect anything wrong with the filter. I tested phosphates for the first time today and I'm somewhere between 5 and 10 PPM. I read in other threads on here to not worry about phosphates but I've read elsewhere that others have had fish die and the only thing that tested high was phosphates. I'm going to start doing some water changes and reduce their food to see if the phosphates improve.
      How large is your pond?

    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by Enrgizerbunny View Post
      How large is your pond?
      2,000 gallons.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    9. #9
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      Quote Originally Posted by biganth View Post
      2,000 gallons.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Okay, and what is the number/size of your new filter? Do you have any other filtration on the pond?

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by Enrgizerbunny View Post
      Okay, and what is the number/size of your new filter? Do you have any other filtration on the pond?
      Itís the Oase Screenmatic2 18,000 which is rated for 4,500 gallons with Koi although that obviously doesnít consider the amount of Koi. I have 11 fish in the pond, all but one under 10 inches. It is a bog pond and I was adding the filter on to help it out with a slightly larger fish load.


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    11. #11
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      I tested my baseline phosphate level and it is 1PPM and the pond is at 2PPM. Do I need to be concerned with the 2 PPM level?

      I may have taken that reading too early. The test tubes have turned very cloudy but I can't correlate them to a color on the chart but they're significantly higher than before.

      I'm using the API Pond Master Kit
      Last edited by biganth; 06-30-2022 at 12:31 PM.

    12. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by biganth View Post
      It’s the Oase Screenmatic2 18,000 which is rated for 4,500 gallons with Koi although that obviously doesn’t consider the amount of Koi. I have 11 fish in the pond, all but one under 10 inches. It is a bog pond and I was adding the filter on to help it out with a slightly larger fish load.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      It looks like a nice filter. I've seen a example of one that wasn't maintained in this video:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55__fwkkUZ4

      As mentioned above, I think changing water would be a good way to reduce the amount of algae in the water column. I don't think cleaning the sponges is a bad idea- meaning it can't hurt if all you do is agitate the sponges in the pond water and drain the dirty water. The way a UV light works best is by damaging the cells of single cell algae (pea soup) which are too small to be removed via mechanical filtration. It will eventually kill the cell, but more importantly it causes the algae cells to stick together into groups that ARE large enough to be removed by good mechanical filtration and be removed from the water column in this manner. If your sponges have already filled with "fine" particles and the spaces left are larger than the clumps of cells, you won't remove them with your filter.

      What size pump do you have running the filter?
      Is your pond in full sun?
      How often are you feeding?

    13. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by biganth View Post
      I tested my baseline phosphate level and it is 1PPM and the pond is at 2PPM. Do I need to be concerned with the 2 PPM level?

      I may have taken that reading too early. The test tubes have turned very cloudy but I can't correlate them to a color on the chart but they're significantly higher than before.

      I'm using the API Pond Master Kit
      I went to a seminar about phosphate levels and ponds a few years ago. It was an excellent presentation on determining the phosphate level in a natural and
      man made pond and some of the effects of phosphate. The summary the instructor gave was that in end, the phosphate level was interesting but of no
      consequence on the health of the fish or the pond. Any attempt to substantially change whatever your pond's phosphate level is would be futile and of
      no benefit.
      So no, imho I don't think you should be concerned about the phosphate reading. I wouldn't even bother with the phosphate test unless you just are curious.
      --Steve


    14. #14
      biganth is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Enrgizerbunny View Post
      It looks like a nice filter. I've seen a example of one that wasn't maintained in this video:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55__fwkkUZ4

      As mentioned above, I think changing water would be a good way to reduce the amount of algae in the water column. I don't think cleaning the sponges is a bad idea- meaning it can't hurt if all you do is agitate the sponges in the pond water and drain the dirty water. The way a UV light works best is by damaging the cells of single cell algae (pea soup) which are too small to be removed via mechanical filtration. It will eventually kill the cell, but more importantly it causes the algae cells to stick together into groups that ARE large enough to be removed by good mechanical filtration and be removed from the water column in this manner. If your sponges have already filled with "fine" particles and the spaces left are larger than the clumps of cells, you won't remove them with your filter.

      What size pump do you have running the filter?
      Is your pond in full sun?
      How often are you feeding?
      The sponges are arranged vertically and are maybe 10 inches high and the water doesn't cover more than 2 inches but that 2 inches look pretty dirty. But Oase support says that if it wasn't cleaning at this level the water would start to rise.


      Pump: https://webbsonline.com/Item/Oase-Aq...4000-MPN-57501
      The pond is in full SE Florida sun.
      Feeding twice/day, morning and evening.

    15. #15
      SimonW is offline Senior Member
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      What I have observed with my sponge biofilters (pressurized filters) is that after I have done a hard flash the water will turn cloudy, and after some days it clears up again.

      I explanation is that the biofilter needs to be effective to keep the water clear.

    16. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by KoiRun View Post
      Cover half the pond in the summer, change a lot of water, good mechanical filtration, lots of surface area. Sounds great. So you beat algae (rare but algae doesn't always win).
      We know "ALGA" is winning when high KH values do not stop the PH rising, tis called supersaturation in the literature, I have personal experience of PH 11 well documented on KP

      These days I deploy a professional 110 UV re 2000 gallons whilst covering half the pond, along with replacing 20% water daily.

      I backflush said water out first, then fast-flow the top up in .. Koi love it and ride the incoming tide, tis like salmon up a waterfall

      I had phosphate values of 10 during high PH.

    17. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by CHICHI View Post
      We know "ALGA" is winning when high KH values do not stop the PH rising, tis called supersaturation in the literature, I have personal experience of PH 11 well documented on KP

      These days I deploy a professional 110 UV re 2000 gallons whilst covering half the pond, along with replacing 20% water daily.

      I backflush said water out first, then fast-flow the top up in .. Koi love it and ride the incoming tide, tis like salmon up a waterfall

      I had phosphate values of 10 during high PH.
      Do you know why the pH rises when algae growth is increasing?

    18. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by Enrgizerbunny View Post
      Do you know why the pH rises when algae growth is increasing?

      "Photosynthesis" chronic O2 supersaturation at high temps (Oxygen) daylight production, which reverses overnight.

      PH/02 rise and fall in harmony with one another

      Water is "MAGIC" and can be manipulated in our favour.. IE: in Winter for example although Max 02 Sat's are in vogue ALL detrimental gases are also Amm/CO2, myriad others whereby DE-GASSING via copious Air/Splash is beneficial in every season


    19. #19
      biganth is offline Junior Member
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      Just a follow up here. Iím not sure if I had a bad batch of Microbe-Lift PL or it doesnít work as good as they claim it does but I used an Evolution Aqua Pure Pond Bomb and that thing is a miracle worker. The pond is absolutely clear and pristine now.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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