Red Label Basic 25 motor failure, need replacement. Ideas?

[mplskoi]

My Red label had its drive motor go out. It had a stuck on situation last fall and ran continuously for quite awhile. Burned out shortly after that. Turns out motors are not available any more- at least from where I bought the unit originally. Any ideas about where I might get one or if there is a retrofit?

[jimfish98]

I think Tom's Seaside RDF is that filter rebranded. I would check with him and see if he has a part for it.

[Billy]

Is this the motor you need?

contact:
info@aquaking.com.ua
sales@aquaking.com.ua

[mplskoi]

Thanks for the quick responses. I did check with Tom and he said he no longer has any. Did not give me any ideas about a retro.
Billy- my motor looks different. I will try get a picture of it later today.
My pond is still shut down- this is not urgent.

[jcardona1]

I was actually just looking at the motor the other day. It appears to be a generic C-Frame more that you could find online anywhere as long as the specs are close, 3900rpm 0.48 amps. The center section with the screw gear comes out and looks like it can be swapped over if you can't find an exact match for the drive pin. I didn't spend the time looking for an exact match but there are tons of options for $40-100. These motors aren't unique the RDFs.








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[jcardona1]

The Aqua Exclusive motor also appears to be a direct fit. They use the same sensors and controllers as the Basic 25

https://www.aqua-exclusive.com/drum-motor

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[mplskoi]

Jose- that looks like what I need. I will try get a better picture and find some identifying marks.
Thanks.

[Billy]

contact:
info@aquaking.com.ua
sales@aquaking.com.ua
Thank you for your message.Please send your questions at info@aquaking.nlKind regards.0

[One Poet's Garden]

contact:
info@aquaking.com.ua
sales@aquaking.com.ua

Wow, are they still open, in spite of the war? I have a seed supplier in Ukraine, but she closed up shop last month when the invasion started.

Best,

Bill

[mplskoi]

I am unable to take any decent pictures down in the filter pit. But it almost certainly is the one that JCardona1 provided a link to. I may not need to get this filter running for awhile so no need to order parts from any war torn regions of the world.
Has anybody done a motor swap on a RL? Looks like it should be pretty easy?

Edit to add- at one point I wondered if there was just a "flat spot" in the motor so I tried force the drum to turn a bit, hoping maybe the motor would get going. The drum now turns freely. I am afraid I have sheered something off in there. Any guesses on that?

[Dabar]

Any shear pins in there that you could have broken? No support from where you purchased the equipment? That makes a bad business owner to not help a customer that spent money

[mplskoi]

Any shear pins in there that you could have broken? No support from where you purchased the equipment? That makes a bad business owner to not help a customer that spent money

I think this is an ongoing issue with RDF's. New dealers and distribution centers pop up. Then those dealers either shut down or switch to a different brand. IMHO I think all of the brands of RDF's hold great promise. But they do need support from qualified interested dealers.

[jcardona1]

Been doing a bit more research and motor replacements and I think we're getting warmer! Turns out I was going about this the wrong way looking for C-frame motors separately when in reality these are sold as an entire unit with the gearbox. I also misinterpreted the label thinking it was 3900rpm of the motor. But it really is 3.9 rotations per minute, the final drive output of the drum itself after the gearbox reduction.

After scouring web pages for hours I realized I should be searching for 'gearmotor'. Specifically I came across the Dayton brand which looks to have the largest selection https://electricmotorwarehouse.com/ac-gear-motor/

Going a bit deeper, this exact type of motor looks to be used for pellet stoves: https://electricmotorwarehouse.com/p...e-gear-motors/

I then found Dayton #52JE07 which looks to be spec'd almost identical to the Red Label motor; 4 RPMs at 0.45 amps. https://electricmotorwarehouse.com/d...-pellet-stove/

Below are the full diagrams and measurements, but I can't really compare unless I completely take apart my RDF and remove the gearbox. So I decided to just give it a shot and order it sight unseen. Worst case scenario I'm out $90, but I should be able to return it if not used. It does however look visually identical. After all, there is nothing proprietary or custom built about these RDFs.





The other unknown is how the drum attaches to the gearbox driveshaft. In Seaside's video, you can see the driveshaft is basically a bolt with a flange at the end that mounts to the drum. My hope is the flange can simply be swapped over, but we'll see when I actually receive it. Finger's crossed!

[mplskoi]

Wow! Thanks for all the research. I am able to just let mine sit idle for awhile. Will pull it out and put it up on a workbench in a month or two. Maybe you will have it all figured out by then!

[zuke]

Any update on this? I am also curious as to how the shaft is sealed from the water coming out, it doesn't seem like those gearboxes would normally have shaft seals that stop water in them

[John P.]

Also curious about any updates here. My Red Label 25 motor is starting to whine when cycling, so I’m hoping to have a backup in-hand sometime soon.

[mplskoi]

I am back on this project. Shut the pond down last spring. Now trying to find a replacement motor so I can sell this unit. Koiphen has always been the greatest place to network and find useable information. I will do my best to share once I find out what to use.

[BWG]

This is a light use throwaway motor not designed for longevity. As more controller and level switch issues are posted it makes a simple and very dependable $25 cycle timer look very attractive.

[mplskoi]

Well, I got a new motor and new gear box. Was able to buy it thru Aqua King in The Netherlands. I will post contact info later if anyone asks.
Was a bit pricey, had to do a wire transfer which added 50$. So about 350 in this repair.
But now I have a new problem. I just can not figure out how the shaft is supposed to attach and hold any strength as it turns. If you look at post thirteen- that shaft that is in the red box. That shaft goes thru a seal, thru the side of the wall of the filter, then thru the gear drive. Then you put a lock nut on it and tighten it up. It would seem that just the tightness of the nut is supposed to create enough friction that as the gear box turns it can hold on? But I am afraid to put crazy amounts of tightness on this. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

Editing to add, so I put it all together, it seems like it should work, but the shaft does not turn. I can see the inner part of the gear box is turning. But the shaft does not "grab".

[mplskoi]

And for anyone else in this jam, if you need to buy parts for this model, I have been working with Frenk:
info@bimexbv.nl