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    Thread: New Pond - massive size UV would it help clearing DOC or sterilizing?

    1. #1
      Namo_Amituofo is offline Member
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      New Pond - massive size UV would it help clearing DOC or sterilizing?

      Hi all

      Iíve recently completed a new pond and fish have been in it for a week now - 4000 liters with 2 large fish @2í long (golden tench) and 3 medium fish @1í long (2 koi 1 golden tench) and 4 small fish @6-8Ē(shubs and golden tench) - you can see more details here - https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...22#post2789222

      Water tested daily and ammonia and nitrite been 0 - KH maintained at 8-10 drops. Past few days have been warmer than usual water temp 15 D - so Iíve been feeding high protein food very lightly once per day.

      Today I noticed the water is showing a tint of cloudiness. I gave the filter a good clean and backwashed it. The filter is Oase Screenex - not entirely sure about exact model but it has 8 foam units (each with 1/2 coarse and 1/2 medium foams stacked together, water flows through the foam compartment then reach a separate compartment with 4 canisters which originally has zeolite but I put in mature siporax media instead. Water then flows out 2.5Ē outlet and splash into the pond.

      The filter is a secondhand one and it comes with a massive 75w Oase Bitron UV with good bulbs (2x 36w). Iíve not switched it on as donít think it will be needed in late autumn /winter. But given the slightly cloudy water situation I wonder if it would help to switch it on for a few days? Would this massive UV (relative to size of my pond) help clear up DOC?

      Filter is feed by an Oase Aquamax 11500 lph pump which I know is a bit OTT for my small pond - but the Bitron unit had flow regulator and actually the lowest setting is <12000 lph (highest is 36000 lph). Filter does a good job and this is evident in 0 ammonia / nitrite reading for a quite high fish load and feeding a little high protein food daily.

      Any idea re in this massive UV can be put to some use??

    2. #2
      batman's Avatar
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      If the issue is dissolved organic compounds (DOCS) try utilizing a foam fractionator along with current filtration.
      Last edited by batman; 10-21-2021 at 11:41 AM.
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    3. #3
      Paul Sabucchi's Avatar
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      Try to figure out what kind of cloudy it is, put some pond water in a clear glass or plastic container to see what tint the water shows. If it looks greenish then it is single cell algae, if it is brownish it could be some fine particles maybeblown in by the wind or come with the rain (occasionally you get north African dust even in southern England, here in Italy we get it a lot more -pita if you have a white car) or as above is it foam on the surface. Different issues require different fixes

    4. #4
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      In a new pond, or a pond with immature filters, or an under-filtered pond, if the cloudiness is not due to green water algae, it’s likely due to a bacterial bloom. Cut back on feeding or do more water changes. UV will just temporarily hide the problem.
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      Thank you very much guys for your replies. I gave the filter a backwash last night and this morning water was notably clearer. I also think bacteria bloom is most likely the culprit as I had exactly the same issue before with a new tank - it was a lot worse water turned milky white - and shortly after two koi developed ulcers due to bacterial infection and eventually one of them died (the other was saved by strong doses of Virkon plus tricite neo topical treatment.

      As precaution I put in a Virkon dose as pond temp plummeted by 4 degrees in past 24 hrs (air temp dropped from 18 to 6) hence fish may be quite stressed and susceptible to bacteria infection

      Also changed to wheat germ feed and fed very lightly today - thinking twice per week feed for the next two weeks and at first frost I shall stop feeding altogether

    6. #6
      MikeM is offline Super Member
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      You may have a bit of a challenge ahead. It generally takes 6-8 weeks in warm water for biofilm to become sufficiently established to perform basic nitrification. It can still be susceptible to fluctuating conditions for a year or so. With your water cooling as you head into winter, biofilm may be very slow to establish..... perhaps not even until next spring. So, do not get anymore fish, feed lightly only, test for ammonia & nitrite (every few days at first & then weekly, then bi-weekly), and be sure to check that the fish are behaving normally for the water temperature. Test for nitrate also. That can be weekly until detected, then as needed to monitor progress of biofilm becoming established. ..... I would not necessarily stop feeding after the first frost. Water temperature is what is important, not the conditions outside the water. But, do feed lightly (or not at all) until the filters are producing nitrate with no detectable ammonia or nitrite. Until you detect nitrate, the biofilm is not sufficient for nitrification. Then you can gradually increase feeding being sure there remains no detectable nitrite or ammonia.
      Last edited by MikeM; 10-22-2021 at 10:48 AM.

    7. #7
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      Thank you for the helpful post. It was a race to move all fish before water temp dropped too low - the fish enjoyed 16D water for best part of 1 week which I’m very relieved about as this help them settle on when immune system is still working OK. Water Temp plummeted to 11D last night and will prob drop further tonight as it’s another cold night with air temp reaching 3D.

      I actually moved all mature media from old filter to new filter and plants with original baskets etc - as with 50% “old tank water” - so not a ‘new new’ pond. Been testing ammonia and nitrite twice a day always tested 0 for both. Nitrate is about 40ppm (20ppm for tap water).

      In the old tank if I fed high protein food daily after a few days I pause for 1-2 days as nitrite test showed a tint of purple. In new pond I fed high protein food daily (though lightly) last week when water temp was 16D - nitrite test always pure turquoise colour. I was actually aiming to “feed the filter’ (don’t know if this is the right approach though) and hoping to see a tint of purple in nitrite test but it’s always been turquoise colour (ammonia always 0).

      Do you think this means the filter is working already or am I missing something basic?

    8. #8
      Paul Sabucchi's Avatar
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      If you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite your biological filtration is doing the job. What is the cloudiness like today?

    9. #9
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      Water looks clearer or I think - it looks really clear in a glass container no tint at all but looking through 4 feet depth I could see some very fine particles (especially at night with a torch). I’ve improvised by putting in a layer of poly wadding/batting in the filter to remove fines as otherwise the Oase foams are not able to filter these very fine particles

    10. #10
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      Poly batting should work nicely to filter fines and I notice many use it for that purpose. What I notice lately on youtube is that many UK ponders are using what they call up-flow filters for filtering fines. Seems to work nicely and many are quite satisfied with it. It consists of a poly tube filled with micro K1 that you can flush regularly without ever getting your hands wet. Too bad about you tap water containing already 20 ppm of nitrates. You should complain about that as they might not know this and maybe violating their permits. In and of itself high nitrates can produce fines as it is a proxy for how much organics there is in the water.
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin

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    11. #11
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      Let us know if the filter floss does the trick. As for the nitrates in the tap water unfortunately I believe it is a common problem in many parts of the UK, I remember with disgust what Thames Water used to send out of our taps in Epsom. I know of a lot of aquarium keepers who had to invest in a lot of water filtration paraphernalia in order to do water changes as their tap water had more crap in it than their waste fishtank water

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      Here is my modest set up - seems doing OK - the filter has a top tray with fine mesh which clogs up too quickly - replaced with two lays of batting sandwiched by jap matting for structural support.

      I did Look at the upflow filter on YT but immediate thought is either it will reduce flow (if plumbed between pump and filter), or risk overflow (if plumbed between filter and waterfall/shower)?

      The two bags of mature media (siporax) I hang at the shades edge get lots of water movement and air

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    13. #13
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      Just as I was getting complacent - water test today showed a tint of green for ammonia and a tint of purple for nitrite - both colours not as deep as 0.25ppm on API chart but not the same as 0 ppm colour either.

      I fed very lightly today with wheat germ about 30 pellets - all gone within a few seconds.

      Water temp was 10D last night and this morning back to 12D and fish have been notably active vs past couple of days they just gathered on bottom and not surfacing.

      Could it be that the beneficial bacteria was Ďhití by the cold spell hence is just waking up?? Last night air temp went down to 4D and I even covered the pond (left a big gap) as didnít want water temp to fluctuate too much (next week forecasting air temp to return to 15-17 D again)

      The only thing I changed in past 24 hrs is to disconnect air pump to the Oase OxyTex 2000 diffuser (left diffuser in the pond though) as donít want to move water excessively during a cold spell. Should I reconnect air to it??
      Last edited by Namo_Amituofo; 10-23-2021 at 01:48 PM.

    14. #14
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      I’ve reconnected the air pump to diffuser - too much risk... will test again in morning. I’ve 5KG zeolite on standby as well

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