• Amused
  • Angry
  • Annoyed
  • Awesome
  • Bemused
  • Cocky
  • Cool
  • Crazy
  • Crying
  • Depressed
  • Down
  • Drunk
  • Embarrased
  • Enraged
  • Friendly
  • Geeky
  • Godly
  • Happy
  • Hateful
  • Hungry
  • Innocent
  • Meh
  • Piratey
  • Poorly
  • Sad
  • Secret
  • Shy
  • Sneaky
  • Tired
  • Results 1 to 2 of 2

    Thread: Quarantine tank - new koi with infection plus one non-emergency question

    1. #1
      ebrande is offline Junior Member
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      ----
       
      Join Date
      Aug 2019
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      16

      Quarantine tank - new koi with infection plus one non-emergency question

      Hi All, I've got a Quarantine tank with one fish that seems to have a bacterial infection and I need some advice and I also have a question about some spots on another where i'm not sure if its just the coloring on the koi or not. Please understand this is my first QT tank and I had a lot of learning to do. I spent hours on these threads and different sources trying to understand how to do it and how to fix the problems that arose, still need some help.

      Day 1 - picked up 4 koi from someone who was going to fill in their pond in two days. All are at least 18" in length, one is like 24". I could barely see them in the water they came out of. This was a rescue mission and I did not have a QT tank filter cycled and only a 100 gal bin to start with (not ideal, I know) Put them in the 100 gal that had been treated with API stress coat and pond prime to help with the ammonia and nitrite and destress them. Started running the uncycled filter and added air stones. Added salt, but accidentally did .01% instead of .1% so it probably did nothing for them. My ammonia readings the next few days were pretty high, in the 1-1.5ppm range. I did a 50% water change three days in a row. I dosed again with the prime on day two to attempt to neutralize the ammonia. Started freaking because the ammonia still showed the same and there's no good way I know of to understand whether the prime is neutralizing all of it or if there's still free (toxic) ammonia in there.

      Day 4 - Got a 500 gal baby pool and some advice from a nice fish dude. Added Seachem stability at the dosage listed to prevent "new tank syndrome" and pulled a secondary biofilter I had added to my main pond a week earlier out and added it to the QT pool hoping that in the week or so it had been running it would be ahead of the game in becoming an established filter. Added more stress coat and some baking soda to get the ph to where it was in their QT tank (around 6.8) and to get the kh up a bit. Moved fish to baby pool. Now that I was finally able to see them I noticed an anchor worm on the largest and got the microbe-lift Lice and anchor worm treatment and have done one dose, and will follow up with the second and third in the coming week/s.

      Day 8 - Visible anchor worm on largest fish is no longer there, seems like that treatment is working. Seachem stability seems to be working, I've been sticking to the recommended schedule (initial larger dose followed by half dose each day for 7 days). Ammonia 0, nitrate 10, nitrite 0, PH 7.5, KH 100, GH 100. there was some fluctuation to this in very small amounts, and I increased the kh a bit with baking sods slowly, but those looked like good numbers to me. HOWEVER. Then I notice another fish (fancytail) has what I *think* looks like a healing bacterial infection or injury. I cannot tell if it has been there and I didn't notice (he is more heavily patterned) or if it is new, or if I am even correctly assuming what it is. Decided to start adding salt, which I realized I should have done earlier, but at least I now learned the correct dosage.

      Day 10 (today) - I've increased the salt to .2% and will get it up to .3% today. Should I go any higher considering what is going on with the fancy tail? I have been adding a little stress coat each day and baking soda as needed to keep the ph and kh stable. All other readings stay the same. In two days I cannot see much of a change, the area doesn't seem to be getting worse or better. I am hoping the white is new/healing tissue. Otherwise he seems to look ok. What else, if anything, should I do?

      Other Question #1: I've included pictures of a silver/yellow koi and an orange one. The silver and yellow has these red specks on him that I thought were just part of his coloring, but then I noticed specks like that on the orange ones face. If someone could tell me if this is just normal coloring or some other thing I need to worry about that would be great.

      Other Question #2: The body of the silver/yellow can be seen in the first picture. There are two scales that look like they are bruised underneath. This one tried to jump during the move to the QT tank and landed hard back in the small tank that only had about a foot of water in it. When i moved him to the QT pool I looked him over and he had dark smudges in that area (the tank is a black bin and I'm thinking his scales took some of that with them). Over the next couple days the dark smudges left but this discoloration under the scales is still there. Do koi get bruised? Is there anything I should do or look out for? Will those scales come off?
      Attached Images Attached Images      

      • Remove Ads
        Advertising from Google
        Promoting Koi and Pond
        keeping since 2007

         

    2. #2
      richtoybox's Avatar
      richtoybox is offline Administrator
      This user has no status.
       
      Feeling:
      Awesome
       
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sandston, VA
      Posts
      14,345
      The orange spots are just color. Fish that are lower in the quality levels of breeding will show these. Just call them beauty marks.

      The red under the scales is low grade infection from having the scales pulled during netting/transfer. You have two choices, one is to just wait and see if they improve, or two is to remove the affected scales and treat the wounds with iodine. If that doesn't take care of it, then get an antibiotic, like Tricide Neo and rub the powder on the wounds. The other fishes wound appears to be the same thing.

      During startup of filters I like to increase the KH to a value of over 150 and up to 200 or more, as the bio bacteria really need the stability of the pH achieved with high KH. Don't worry about the pH going up as it should already be slightly higher than 8 based on your current KH and won't change much as the highest that the pH should go is 8.3, unless there is a lack of calcium.

      That level of salt shouldn't hurt anything, but if you find the fish swimming erratically, flashing, or otherwise showing signs of parasites the use of Proform C, which is one of the preferred treatments becomes off label, as the label says not to use with salt, and the similar BSDT states not to use with over 0.1% salt.
      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

      • Remove Ads
        Advertising from Google
        Promoting Koi and Pond
        keeping since 2007

         

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •