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  • Results 1 to 8 of 8

    Thread: Will this work? Thanks

    1. #1
      BenDalat is offline Junior Member
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      Will this work? Thanks

      Hello all,

      I am new here and also new to koi pond.

      After 15 years of salt water fish and corals, I want to venture back to my childhood dream; gold fish tank.
      But for the old guy, a Koi pond.
      I hope you can give me advice about this.

      I am planing to build an above ground 9'x4'x3' high indoor Koi pond in the near future (Still pending for my wife's approval though).
      This pond will me in my basement where I can sit, relax and enjoy when I have free time.
      Below is a high level plan.
      I would like to keep it simple but effective

      The pond wall will build by 4x4 woods.

      The pond liner: Rectangular Box Welded Pond Liner Insert (Flexible)

      The filter: The Pond Guy AllClear G2 Pressurized Filtration System
      Biological Filter & UV Clarifier with Backflush

      Fish: 3 Kois: will grow them as big as 25"+, and some goldfish ( Tamasaba)

      Can this work?

      Thank you,

    2. #2
      Wlantry's Avatar
      Wlantry is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by BenDalat View Post
      Can this work?
      Yes, but...

      Right now, a 10 foot treated 4x4 at the home depot near me runs 23 bucks. For this design, you'd need about 36, so you're looking at 800 bucks just for the frame. If you have a drill, and a way to cut rebar, you could link them together that way. But it you're handy, there are less expensive - and perhaps more elegant - ways to build that frame.

      But yes, if that's not an issue, it would work. Same with that welded drop in liner. They're really cool, but they can get pricey. If you're careful with the folds of a conventional liner, you could save a bit. But yes, that too would work.

      Do you have any pics of the site? How is it fixed for power and drainage?

      Good luck,

      Bill

    3. #3
      BenDalat is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Wlantry View Post
      Yes, but...

      Right now, a 10 foot treated 4x4 at the home depot near me runs 23 bucks. For this design, you'd need about 36, so you're looking at 800 bucks just for the frame. If you have a drill, and a way to cut rebar, you could link them together that way. But it you're handy, there are less expensive - and perhaps more elegant - ways to build that frame.

      But yes, if that's not an issue, it would work. Same with that welded drop in liner. They're really cool, but they can get pricey. If you're careful with the folds of a conventional liner, you could save a bit. But yes, that too would work.

      Do you have any pics of the site? How is it fixed for power and drainage?

      Good luck,

      Bill
      Bill,
      Thank you for your reply.
      I planed to stack 4x4s on top of each others and nail them down.
      I planed to use this 4-in x 4-in x 10-ft Douglas Fir Lumber. it costs $18.5 at my Lowes. (the pond is in the basement, do I need treated ones? Thanks,)
      Also, can you show me the other way? I think I can do it. I just want to make sure it is steady, no bow out....
      I'm not home, so I don't have a picture yet.
      This pond will be in my basement, near the laundry room so it will be near the drainage and power.
      Can you tell me about the filter? is it good enough? if not, which one do you recommend?
      I am very concern about the water quality and clarity.

      Thank you,

    4. #4
      Wlantry's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BenDalat View Post
      Bill,
      I planed to stack 4x4s on top of each others and nail them down.
      I planed to use this 4-in x 4-in x 10-ft Douglas Fir Lumber. it costs $18.5 at my Lowes. (the pond is in the basement, do I need treated ones?
      Ben(?),

      I'm not an engineer, more like a backyard builder. The strongest way I know how to do this would be to drill 1/2" holes every couple feet in each 4x4, stack them up so the holes align, cut some 1/2" rebar to size, and then drive the rebar through the holes to tie the wall together. Corners are tricky, but if you alternate the timbers at the corners, drill them and do the rebar thing, it should hold. Folks here know the formulas way better than I do, but three feet of water makes for an awful lot of weight, and it pushes out as well as down.

      If you're not used to building, it'd be tricky getting the holes to line up. The second strongest way I know would be to use these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fast...2231/203533480. You need a good strong drill to drive them, but they *will* hold.

      Since your pond is inside, you don't have to worry about rain or damp soil keeping the wood wet, and as long as the wood stays dry you won't need to use treated ones.

      Other folks here know way more about filters than I do. My best suggestion is that you spend some time reading the forum. There's tons of information here. One member just built something like what you're talking about: https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...200-pond-build

      Also, try entering the word 'indoor' here You may need to scroll past four or five ads, but there's a wealth of ideas waiting.

      Best,

      Bill

    5. #5
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by BenDalat View Post
      Bill,
      Thank you for your reply.
      I planed to stack 4x4s on top of each others and nail them down.
      I planed to use this 4-in x 4-in x 10-ft Douglas Fir Lumber. it costs $18.5 at my Lowes. (the pond is in the basement, do I need treated ones? Thanks,)
      Also, can you show me the other way? I think I can do it. I just want to make sure it is steady, no bow out....
      I'm not home, so I don't have a picture yet.
      This pond will be in my basement, near the laundry room so it will be near the drainage and power.
      Can you tell me about the filter? is it good enough? if not, which one do you recommend?
      I am very concern about the water quality and clarity.

      Thank you,
      Instead of rebar, consider lengths of threaded rod 8mm 10 mm 12mm 16 mm diameter

      Concrete floor?

      Place your threaded wall anchors at intervals along the center line of your ponds side and end walls

      Drill the timber out so as to be able to slide each of the timber over each of the threaded bolts anchored in the floor,run nuts and washers down and tighten to the

      floor.

      Drill the timber out with a slightly bigger .SHORT. hole to allow the fixing nut and washers to finish below the surface of the stacked timbers.

      The corners can be overlapped by cutting one long timber,one short timber and vice versa one short, one long.

      The corners can be drilled and bolted to hold each overlapping timber together.

      A strong like mother RUSSIA POND.

      Cheers
      Last edited by coolwon; 4 Weeks Ago at 12:39 PM.
      Find more about Weather in Durban, ZA

    6. #6
      jrlaubin's Avatar
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      the filter you mentioned is not ideal, the foam tends to clog with waste. a small ultima bead filter would be easier for you to clean, goldies have alot of waste..uv would not be needed in the basement.
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    7. #7
      BenDalat is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you Bill and coolwon.
      I will keep reading and do research more about the frame.

    8. #8
      BenDalat is offline Junior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by jrlaubin View Post
      the filter you mentioned is not ideal, the foam tends to clog with waste. a small ultima bead filter would be easier for you to clean, goldies have alot of waste..uv would not be needed in the basement.
      jrlaubin,

      Thanks for your tips.
      I am thinking getting a ULTIMA II 1,000, or a ULTIMA II 2,000 for the pond.
      I'm looking everywhere but could not see the pump that goes with it.
      Can you tell me which pump should go with each model?
      I think in my case, it have to be a submersible one.

      thanks.

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