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  • Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
    Results 61 to 80 of 88

    Thread: Aqua Studio RDF- Who is running one ?

    1. #61
      NaturalK is online now Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by wildwolfdisco View Post
      Yes sir, working like a charm. Previously my water was already every good but this raised the bar a lot more. Using a no niche skimmer without the basket, handles citrus flowers like a champ.

      The unit itself was 279 lbs with water it easily goes over 300

      https://youtu.be/7Yy32ly7jvo
      It definitely looks like it can handle more than half a bucket of water, so it should be even over 400 lbs

    2. #62
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      Quote Originally Posted by wildwolfdisco View Post
      Yes sir, working like a charm. Previously my water was already every good but this raised the bar a lot more. Using a no niche skimmer without the basket, handles citrus flowers like a champ.

      The unit itself was 279 lbs with water it easily goes over 300

      https://youtu.be/7Yy32ly7jvo

      Nice ... Mine is still on the pallet in the garage. I’m still working on my new filter location. I dug the dirt out but still need to pour a concrete foundation with cinderblock walls. I’m thinking of using a “tuff stuff” 110 gallon or a 180 gallon tube as my moving bed. Unless anyone has a better solution. I was just going to do the RDF >Moving bed>waterfall.

    3. #63
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      So I will have to add an new junction box in the new area where the filter will be going. I’m not super familiar with doing with is work... does anyone know if 12/2 CU UF-B W/G wire and which new breaker I should buy to add to the breaker box?

    4. #64
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      Quote Originally Posted by headman View Post
      Nice ... Mine is still on the pallet in the garage. Im still working on my new filter location. I dug the dirt out but still need to pour a concrete foundation with cinderblock walls. Im thinking of using a tuff stuff 110 gallon or a 180 gallon tube as my moving bed. Unless anyone has a better solution. I was just going to do the RDF >Moving bed>waterfall.
      Headman,
      If you going this route RDF-->MBBR-->Pump(s)-->water fall. You need to consider piping 4" to MBBR, make sure that the MBBR has enough surface area to accommodate multiple (4X) 4" bulk head. My 200 gallons 4 X 4' tube can only have two inputs. With just 2 4" connection, my flow is limited to just 6K.

    5. #65
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      Got to see the Aqua Studio in person at the ZNA Norcal koi show this past weekend and had a chat with the owners. I am thoroughly impressed with this unit. Build quality is fantastic and the controller is impressive. If & when my Red Label dies, this may be what I replace it with.

      ~ Jose

    6. #66
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      I'm very surprised to see a big toggle switch for selecting gravity or pump-fed. Typically, that's something that's set once initial installation and never again. A wire jumper would have saved complexity, a bit of weight, and cost, but I guess if the user manual is lost, a switch is helpful.

    7. #67
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      Few more pictures. I was concerned about the 'plastic' gear, but after seeing it in person, I don't think you'll ever have issues. The bottom of the drum sits on wheels that help it spin so there is very little force being applied. Also, this looks like be made out of Delrin or something similar which is incredibly strong material.







      ~ Jose

    8. #68
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      I made the gear comment based on similar industrial setups I've seen over the years. Hard thin contact surface on a softer plastic will eventually wear even with low loading. Hopefully it takes multiple years but it's unknown. I'd still get a spare thrown in with the initial purchase. They should redesign to be able to flip over and double life. Moveable gear with spacers on ends that can be shifted is also a possibility. Either option can be done to existing gear with a little work.

      From the photos everything else looks A+. Only time and future user reports will tell.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Last edited by batman; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:31 PM.
      The real Batman wears polyester! Don't be fooled by the plastic imposter.

    9. #69
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      Regarding the gear setup, the problem isn't so much when everything is working fine, it's when the screen plugs up for any reason (like water pressure going away). Now you're asking that blue gear to turn something weighing hundreds of pounds, and even more if the rollers it's sitting on are at all compressible. That's when, if it's going to happen, the blue gear could strip its teeth (I"m assuming that the large gear is metal).

    10. #70
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nuspeed007 View Post
      Headman,
      If you going this route RDF-->MBBR-->Pump(s)-->water fall. You need to consider piping 4" to MBBR, make sure that the MBBR has enough surface area to accommodate multiple (4X) 4" bulk head. My 200 gallons 4 X 4' tube can only have two inputs. With just 2 4" connection, my flow is limited to just 6K.
      My pond is around 5000 gallons so do ya think one of these 110 or 180 gallon tubs would work? Im open for other things as well. I just dont have a ton of money to blow on a moving bed atm. Thank you
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    11. #71
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      Regarding the gear setup, the problem isn't so much when everything is working fine, it's when the screen plugs up for any reason (like water pressure going away). Now you're asking that blue gear to turn something weighing hundreds of pounds, and even more if the rollers it's sitting on are at all compressible. That's when, if it's going to happen, the blue gear could strip its teeth (I"m assuming that the large gear is metal).
      Agreed with you on that, I was just going to see why not use metal gear to turn.
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    12. #72
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      Quote Originally Posted by EmeraldDragon View Post
      Agreed with you on that, I was just going to see why not use metal gear to turn.
      Sometimes the plastic gear is designed into the setup to be the weak link. If the unit is jammed the teeth strip and more expensive repairs are spared. Depends on how fast the motor overload circuit is in detecting a jam and disconnecting power. Some RDFs have drum drive slip clutch (torque limiter).
      The real Batman wears polyester! Don't be fooled by the plastic imposter.

    13. #73
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      Quote Originally Posted by headman View Post
      My pond is around 5000 gallons so do ya think one of these 110 or 180 gallon tubs would work? I’m open for other things as well. I just don’t have a ton of money to blow on a moving bed atm. Thank you
      That should works for your 5000 Gallon pond, just don't get greedy with too many koi (who am I kidding, over stock syndrome is extremely contagious). Anyway since the effluence side is clean, you can use the knife valves, I would think three 4" pipes + three knife valves should be adequate for 4-8K flow. I estimate that you need a 60 lpm air pump, I make my own soaker air diffuser, 8-12 CF of bio media, pump of your choice. Since you swiss cheese the tub, I usually buy a few large metal band to re-enforce where it may bow. Keep it out of the sun, it half life will be beyond mine & yours. ps Don't under estimate the surface area required for the 4" bulk head, pre pipe everything before welding, use PL to seal the BH epdm sea, you will need a second person to wrestle those seals tight. Have fun

    14. #74
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      Quote Originally Posted by batman View Post
      I made the gear comment based on similar industrial setups I've seen over the years. Hard thin contact surface on a softer plastic will eventually wear even with low loading. Hopefully it takes multiple years but it's unknown. I'd still get a spare thrown in with the initial purchase. They should redesign to be able to flip over and double life. Moveable gear with spacers on ends that can be shifted is also a possibility. Either option can be done to existing gear with a little work.

      From the photos everything else looks A+. Only time and future user reports will tell.
      Mine is probably comparing apples and oranges but my gear looks identical to the one in the pictures but the larger gear is a wider plastic
      model. I did the conversion on my BE just short of 3 years ago and fwiw here's the gear:

      Name:  3 years wear.jpg
Views: 109
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      You can see where the gears meet on the left side but I see little actual wear so far. And I've run the clean side of my RDF down to
      almost empty many times and it's never had an issue of turning the drum.
      --Steve

    15. #75
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      Any suggestions on running a gang box to the filter? Its about 120 ft from my circuit breaker box in the garage but should I run two 20amp breakers out to it? Ill have my 2 air pumps (80 & 60 lpm) / two UV lights (one in RDF and other inline) / 2 or 3 pumps. It not a filter house... it will be covered with a wood platform or something similar. Thank you

    16. #76
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      It's an easy math problem: Add up all the currents for what you may be drawing on that circuit, and multiply by 1.5 or 2, and that's your breaker rating. That said, for 150 feet, you should run 12 gauge copper wire (not aluminum), and 10-15 amp breakers are most common. This is assuming 115V and not 230.

    17. #77
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      Quote Originally Posted by batman View Post
      Sometimes the plastic gear is designed into the setup to be the weak link. If the unit is jammed the teeth strip and more expensive repairs are spared. Depends on how fast the motor overload circuit is in detecting a jam and disconnecting power. Some RDFs have drum drive slip clutch (torque limiter).
      Ahh I see.


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      Visit my site and see my progress of my Backyard and Garden

    18. #78
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      Quote Originally Posted by headman View Post
      Any suggestions on running a gang box to the filter? It’s about 120 ft from my circuit breaker box in the garage but should I run two 20amp breakers out to it? I’ll have my 2 air pumps (80 & 60 lpm) / two UV lights (one in RDF and other inline) / 2 or 3 pumps. It not a filter house... it will be covered with a wood platform or something similar. Thank you
      IMO you won't need a UV light let alone two. The screen is able to remove all of the floating algae in the pond. I'm struggling to find any free float algae because it takes EVERYTHING out. Currently I have no UV and my pond sits in full sunlight but water is crystal clear

    19. #79
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      Quote Originally Posted by wildwolfdisco View Post
      IMO you won't need a UV light let alone two. The screen is able to remove all of the floating algae in the pond. I'm struggling to find any free float algae because it takes EVERYTHING out. Currently I have no UV and my pond sits in full sunlight but water is crystal clear
      Same here. Stopped using my UV light and haven't had any green water, water is still crystal clear.

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      ~ Jose

    20. #80
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      There are many types of free-floating algae. One is a short filament, hair like and a fraction of an inch long, and is filtered out by an RDF. The other type is cellular, which is much smaller. No RDF can filter out this type because it freely flow through the ~60-micron screen. The absence of green water is due to water chemistry and not mechanical filtration. We have an RDF and UV, and during the summer, if the UV is turned off, the pond turns green in a few weeks. Turn it back on, and the water clears. Other people claim that using a shower filter eliminates free-floating algae, which is more believable because it can affect water chemistry.
      Last edited by kimini; 1 Week Ago at 01:24 PM.

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