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  • Results 1 to 14 of 14

    Thread: Help on building a wooden tank

    1. #1
      NaturalK is offline Senior Member
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      Question Help on building a wooden tank

      Hi,
      I really, really want to make a wooden tank that's around 8' x 5.5' x 4' and have it as a new setup. The pond will be outside, under my patio and covered from the sun and rain. However, my little brother has really discouraged me from it, and so did the guy at Home Depot. I still persistent on the idea, but I just want to get more opinions on it. I've seen some of KoiValley's build, and the frame seems really complicated. So I have a few questions:

      Does all wooden tanks bow?
      If yes, is there a way to prevent that?
      How long can a wooden tank last?

      For KoiValley's build, is there like a blueprint for it somewhere? Also, what is he using to hold it together? I don't see any screws or bolts, does he only use glue?

      I've also seen this here suggested in one of the thread here: https://www.pondarmor.com/building-a...-pond-or-tank/
      Are there any flaws in this build? How long will this hold up?

      Thank you

      EDIT: Also, if I want a window, how thick of acrylic should I go for?
      Last edited by NaturalK; 07-04-2020 at 08:50 PM.

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    2. #2
      Nguyen365's Avatar
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      My pond doesn't bow.
      https://youtu.be/vMdgnmjDnSw. I used 4x4s which is a little more expensive and used lag bolts every 12" which is overkill. I think you can get away with 1 lag bolt every 24".


      https://youtu.be/MmalT8FZ0rE.

      Trick to keeping wooden pond lasting is to keep the wood dry and protected from termites.

    3. #3
      NaturalK is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nguyen365 View Post
      My pond doesn't bow.
      https://youtu.be/vMdgnmjDnSw. I used 4x4s which is a little more expensive and used lag bolts every 12" which is overkill. I think you can get away with 1 lag bolt every 24".


      https://youtu.be/MmalT8FZ0rE.

      Trick to keeping wooden pond lasting is to keep the wood dry and protected from termites.
      Hi Tony!

      Coincidentally, I just watched your pond build video seconds before going back to my post to check. Is there a medication to keep termites away? My pond should be dry for the most part except for storms.

      Thanks

    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by NaturalK View Post
      Hi Tony!

      Coincidentally, I just watched your pond build video seconds before going back to my post to check. Is there a medication to keep termites away? My pond should be dry for the most part except for storms.

      Thanks
      Texas is pretty dry if it's anything like bakersfield Ca, you shouldnt have any issues.

      You can get pressure treated lumber. I just got the regular pine and applied wood paint and sealer since my pond is on concrete.

    5. #5
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      Update:
      I have a plan here

      Each wall's assembly will be screwed in with glue. However, where there corners meet, I just want to place in heavy toggle clamps to clamp them together so I can take them apart whenever I want to later. Is that even possible?
      (I'm looking at this clamp, says "2000lbs" a clamp and the walls will have 6 of these at each corner so theoretically it's 5000lbs more than needed
      https://www.amazon.com/3-PACK-2000lb...55&s=hi&sr=1-2 )
      My major concern is bowing. How long will this last? What's the flaw in my concept?

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by NaturalK View Post
      Update:
      I have a plan here

      Each wall's assembly will be screwed in with glue. However, where there corners meet, I just want to place in heavy toggle clamps to clamp them together so I can take them apart whenever I want to later. Is that even possible?
      (I'm looking at this clamp, says "2000lbs" a clamp and the walls will have 6 of these at each corner so theoretically it's 5000lbs more than needed
      https://www.amazon.com/3-PACK-2000lb...55&s=hi&sr=1-2 )
      My major concern is bowing. How long will this last? What's the flaw in my concept?
      I would use torque construction screws personally instead of clamps in the corners. I haven't seen anyone using clamps.

      You shouldn't have issues with bowing.

    7. #7
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      Forget those clamps. If you want to take it apart later you can make the corners as finger joints. Drill the end of each piece and run a long steel rod through from top to bottom. Here's a bad picture showing the concept. You can fill in the gaps with 4x4s or use 1 inch boards and foam board inside. I had one like this on my deck for 15 years and it was easy to take it apart.

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    8. #8
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      Here's another example with 4x4s. Its 3 feet deep and 1000gallons
      https://youtu.be/KGiotHwX2fM

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      Quote Originally Posted by pickerel View Post
      Forget those clamps. If you want to take it apart later you can make the corners as finger joints. Drill the end of each piece and run a long steel rod through from top to bottom. Here's a bad picture showing the concept. You can fill in the gaps with 4x4s or use 1 inch boards and foam board inside. I had one like this on my deck for 15 years and it was easy to take it apart.

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      Hi,

      That's actually what I was going to submit after talk to @pondfishguy , which thanks for the help!
      Should I do that in alternating 4x4 or 2x4? 2x4 should give more layers so more strength? I also plan to do rebar every 3 ft or so to help out (pondfishguy's idea)
      This is also a technicaly question, but did you just pick up one post at a time to take it apart?

      Thanks!
      Last edited by NaturalK; 07-05-2020 at 11:21 AM.

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by NaturalK View Post
      Hi,

      That's actually what I was going to submit after talk to @pondfishguy , which thanks for the help!
      Should I do that in alternating 4x4 or 2x4? 2x4 should give more layers so more strength? I also plan to do rebar every 3 ft or so to help out (pondfishguy's idea)
      This is also a technicaly question, but did you just pick up one post at a time to take it apart?

      Thanks!
      I used 4x6 landscape timbers from Lowe's...the kind that have rounded sides just like in the picture. Then I lined the inside with vertical 1x6 boards and 1" foam board insulation inside that and along the bottom. The insulation board also gave a softer cushion for the liner. I didn't fill in the 4" gaps with anything on the outside and never had any bowing, but my pond was only about 2 ft. x 6 ft. x 2 ft. deep.

      I used 3/8" threaded rod in the corners with a nut/washer on top and bottom to squeeze it together. If you put additional rods along the sides, it would be a good idea to use threaded rod and add other pieces of wood in the spaces so that it can all be squeezed together. It does have to be disassembled one board at a time, BUT if you have enough clearance between your rod and the holes in the boards, you should be able to pull out a rod, swing the corner apart, then put rods back into the holes. That way you could move each wall as a unit. My holes were just big enough to let the rods pass through, so they got bound into the holes and I couldn't pull them out until most of the timbers were disassembled.

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    11. #11
      NaturalK is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by pickerel View Post
      I used 4x6 landscape timbers from Lowe's...the kind that have rounded sides just like in the picture. Then I lined the inside with vertical 1x6 boards and 1" foam board insulation inside that and along the bottom. The insulation board also gave a softer cushion for the liner. I didn't fill in the 4" gaps with anything on the outside and never had any bowing, but my pond was only about 2 ft. x 6 ft. x 2 ft. deep.

      I used 3/8" threaded rod in the corners with a nut/washer on top and bottom to squeeze it together. If you put additional rods along the sides, it would be a good idea to use threaded rod and add other pieces of wood in the spaces so that it can all be squeezed together. It does have to be disassembled one board at a time, BUT if you have enough clearance between your rod and the holes in the boards, you should be able to pull out a rod, swing the corner apart, then put rods back into the holes. That way you could move each wall as a unit. My holes were just big enough to let the rods pass through, so they got bound into the holes and I couldn't pull them out until most of the timbers were disassembled.
      Oh dang, it's only 2ft deep. Thank you tho, since yours didn't bow the design is sturdy. I think I just need more reinforcement from it. My current plan is this:


      Alternating between 2x4 and 4x4 so I can add more layers than just 4x4, and to have 4in gaps here and there so I can drill holes through to the wall for tubings or what not. Planning to have water starting from where the rebar starts at the bottom up to about 3'6" of it.
      Any engineers know if this works?

    12. #12
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      Let her rip tater chip!!!! Let the build begin..

    13. #13
      NaturalK is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nguyen365 View Post
      Let her rip tater chip!!!! Let the build begin..
      Haha, I don't want to rush into this. Even if it's temporary, I'd like to last for at least a decade. Thank you for the suggestions, though!

    14. #14
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      I also have a raised 4x4 pond that I secured using 3/8"-6" lag screws that are bolted every 12". My pond is 11x7' & 30" deep. It's been running for 2 years under a patio but I'm sure this will last another decade without any problems...so as long as it stays bug-free.

      Be careful when using pressure treated lumber as it's very toxic and you don't want any of the runoff water seeping into another pond in your yard. If you have storms, it might be a good idea to use PT wood for the very bottom piece.
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