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  • Results 1 to 10 of 10

    Thread: Polyurea

    1. #1
      fsbbn is offline Senior Member
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      Polyurea

      Hi!

      I had a beautiful 16000 gal pond (monolithic pour) with the best filtration system built recently by a reputable builder. It just got installed and I have not hooked up the filters yet. I live in Denver, Colorado where we have expansive clay soils. I worry about the ground shifting and causing small structural damage to the pond. I have heard Polyurea is an amazing coating that is almost indestructible and can make up for any shifts in structure because it stretches. On top of that it is supposed to last for decades. The only draw back is cost. If cost was not an issue, would you recommend this coating? My pond is made of xypex mixed in with high strength concrete and from what I have been told that should be a good water proof element. I am just asking, if I want to have no worries at all for decades, would polyurea as a second layer of protection be something you recommend?

      thank you
      Last edited by fsbbn; 06-21-2020 at 12:15 AM.

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    2. #2
      pondfishguy is offline Senior Member
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      I think your builder should be able to answer this question. How many years of experience do they have?

      Nothing lasts forever. You could always recoat/repair in a decade if necessary.

    3. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by pondfishguy View Post
      I think your builder should be able to answer this question. How many years of experience do they have?

      Nothing lasts forever. You could always recoat/repair in a decade if necessary.
      It's Russ Peters! Whatever he suggests is the right way to do it, from the builds I've seen here

      Did you ask Russ, fsbbn? Guess not as asking here...
      Last edited by perniciousviper; 06-21-2020 at 09:25 AM.

    4. #4
      batman is offline Senior Member
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      I'd be more concerned with prep and construction vs poly.

      Pond bottom must be built on solid ground below frost line no backfill unless compacted gravel. Outside must be well drained at depth of pond. This helps to prevent outside freeze thaw and hydrostatic pressures on pond walls. Put 1.5 to 2 inch high density foam on the outside of the pond starting at soil level down. This allows a cushion from ground side seasonal forces and helps to stabilize pond temperatures. Use crystalline waterproofing in concrete.
      Last edited by batman; 06-21-2020 at 10:03 AM.
      The real Batman wears polyester! Don't be fooled by the plastic imposter.

    5. #5
      fsbbn is offline Senior Member
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      The pond is well built and I am not trying to discuss that. My questions are around expansive clay soils and structural integrity based on that. The same pond in different soils can lead to different outcomes in the long term. Not worried about the water in the pond as I am asking about ground water and its hydrostatic impact on structures due to expansive forces in the earth. And if that is a concern or even if not I wanted to know experience with polyurea being able to neutralize that. I have heard they use polyurea in earthquake prone areas to have a second layer of protection. The cost is 15 dollars a square feet and so I was hoping someone who has first hand experience with the product can chime in. Thanks

    6. #6
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      Ask Russ, aka the guy who got down n dirty in your exact soil and location, aka the guy with decades of pond construction experience in a range of locations, aka... your pond builder!

      Or am I missing something?

    7. #7
      fsbbn is offline Senior Member
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      I will talk to Russ but I don't expect him to be an expert on effects of expansive clay soils.

    8. #8
      Russell Peters's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by fsbbn View Post
      I will talk to Russ but I don't expect him to be an expert on effects of expansive clay soils.
      First off, you do NOT have expansive clay soils where your pond was built. You have a combination of river rock, pebbles and, what looks to me like, sandy soil. You yourself said it rained 15 hours straight before I showed up yet there was not a single puddle in the excavated area. It drained very well and there was no mud as I worked. Expansive clay soils tend to hold water after a 15 hour rain and, in areas I have worked with expansive clay soils, I have added pure cement to the clay so that it would harden up so I could work. It was the first thing I mentioned to you when I arrived at your place.
      I would take Batman's advice and put in the 1.5" to 2" high density foam around your pond and then start to back fill so that you don't keep exposing all of that new concrete to the blistering hot sun. I know you have water in the pond but I think it is best to back fill as soon as you can for the reason I mentioned.
      As far as Polyurea goes, it is only as good as the person that applies it and, even then, it doesn't always work out well. My wife had it on her pond and, when we moved to Indiana, I demolished her pond and found that the Polyurea had come loose from the concrete and there were large areas that were filled with water behind the Polyurea.
      people like to vehemently defend their purchases and find it incredulous that anything could be better

    9. #9
      fsbbn is offline Senior Member
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      Thanks Russ. I will look into high density foam.

    10. #10
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      We live in highly expansive clay. We built a gunite pond with polyurea coating. You are doing the right thing.

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