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    Thread: Anchor Worm treatment with Dimilin X questions

    1. #1
      nacnacmetz is offline Junior Member
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      Question Anchor Worm treatment with Dimilin X questions

      Hey everyone. Long time lurker first time poster here.

      So recently noticed an anchor worm on the dorsal fin of one of my fish. After doing hours of research I settled on Dimilin X from an ebay supplier which arrived today. I also now noticed all the fish seem to have at least one with the max (that I can see) being two on a few fish. Back to Dimilin, I have a few questions on it's use.

      1. There seems to be conflicting information on if you should remove the worm or not. Anyone have success in using Dim without removing the worm? Seems that while they are attached it won't work but the Dim should kill the eggs. Really nervous to remove them from my fish as they are ~4" long.

      2. If I do remove the anchor worm is there any additives I should put in the water to help healing? Obviously clean water is important which leads to question 3..

      3. Water changes or not? Where I dump my water will not get into a sewer system. Is it helpful to perform a WC prior to the re-dosing (instructions say 3-5 days between doses for up to 3x)

      Thanks in advance for anyone who can lend there time

    2. #2
      ademink's Avatar
      ademink is offline Supporting Member ~ Koi Health Care Committee Member
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      I've used Dimilin successfully without physically removing the anchor worm. I used Dimilin-X (accidentallly double dosed b/c I didn't know my pond volume at the time...so it's obviously a fairly safe medication LOL).

      I would do a WC before dosing, and also do one in between.
      Andrea
      Koi Health Care Committee Member



    3. #3
      nacnacmetz is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you so so much! I read a lot of your posts and you were exactly the person I hoped would respond. 50% WC sound right?

      Also, should I put anything in the pond to treat the wound? Glad I don't have to do any surgery.

    4. #4
      ademink's Avatar
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      Happy to help! 50% is more than enough. If your water quality is already good, you could go with 30%. At this point I would not worry about treating the world unless it is substantial. Keep your water quality good and just keep an eye on it to ensure that it does not get worse.
      Andrea
      Koi Health Care Committee Member



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      nacnacmetz is offline Junior Member
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      Sounds good! Wondering if you noticed how long it took the worms to fall off so I know what to expect. Also, they said treat every 3-5 days for up to three applications. Did you need to do three? And how far did you space treatments?

      Thank you so much for your time!

    6. #6
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      Dimilin is a chiton inhibitor. Chiton is the material that makes up the shells on insects and crustaceans, all of which have to shed the old shell to grow. It does not affect the fish. If the anchor worm has fallen off, it is because it is dead and there is no need to do additional doses. If there are red bumps, mostly on the fins, then that is an indication of encysted juvenile anchor worms and you want the treatment to last until those disappear.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    7. #7
      koi4u2c is offline Senior Member
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      I have used dimilin the original powder version.

      Treated and left in the pond for 7+ days. Worked for me. But I would follow directions on your bottle.

      All anchor worms disappeared. It seemed to me either they did not live very long, or perhaps the other koi picked them off.

      None of my fish had any issues with wounds from the worms. Just a slight pink irritated spot that soon disappeared on its own.
      Nancy



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      Quote Originally Posted by RichToyBox View Post
      Dimilin is a chiton inhibitor. Chiton is the material that makes up the shells on insects and crustaceans, all of which have to shed the old shell to grow. It does not affect the fish. If the anchor worm has fallen off, it is because it is dead and there is no need to do additional doses. If there are red bumps, mostly on the fins, then that is an indication of encysted juvenile anchor worms and you want the treatment to last until those disappear.
      amazing answer! thank you so much. that clarifies a lot of questions. I do see some "bumps" on a couple of the fish. I dosed them last night and monitored and it seemed everything was ok. This morning I checked on them and it looks like one had either white feces or a worm coming out of it's anus.. I did not have time to sit and analyze and now I'm scared they have other parasites ugh.

      Never had a problem in previous years and did not add any new fish. Only thing was some hornwort and hycanith but have been getting from the same location every year and they are very clean. The biggest difference was I went from a low budget Lowe's "pressure filter" to an Oase Pondsmart 5000. Water quality is crystal clear and perfect API measurements. Pond is ~900 gallons with 8 3-4" goldfish. Really sad right now..

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      Quote Originally Posted by koi4u2c View Post
      I have used dimilin the original powder version.

      Treated and left in the pond for 7+ days. Worked for me. But I would follow directions on your bottle.

      All anchor worms disappeared. It seemed to me either they did not live very long, or perhaps the other koi picked them off.

      None of my fish had any issues with wounds from the worms. Just a slight pink irritated spot that soon disappeared on its own.
      Great. Thank you so much!

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      So after dosing with Dimilin X last night I came in the morning and freaked out thinking there was a worm coming out of one of my goldfish. Now I don't think it's a worm and have been doing research on stool. There are quite a few in the bottom of the pond (don't have a bottom drain). I've been reading about it and it appears I need to not feed them for a few days? They have quite and appetite still.

      Water reading: p.h. 8.4 (normally 7.8 but did a water change last night and we have hard water/dimilin maybe?) Nitrate/nitrite/ammonia all 0. Don't have a TDS meter but I can always see to the bottom.

    14. #14
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      The water pH of 8.4 is a good indication of high bicarbonates (KH) which is good for maintaining a consistent pH and good aeration. If I were to add a test, it would be the KH test as values over 100 indicate a high probability of consistent pH and if the pH is consistent, then the bio bacteria are going to be happy and continue to give ammonia and nitrite values that are most likely going to stay at zero. In fact the test that I ran consistently on my mature ponds was the KH test with occasional checks on the other parameters.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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      So if the bicarbonate is high is that a bad thing? I've had the pond for four years without a problem (started as a mud waterfall) so haven't really deep dived into issues

    16. #16
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      Many have to add baking soda to increase the bicarbonate to stabilize the pH. The filter bacteria produce acids that consume the bicarbonate ions so without refreshment, either in the form of baking soda additions, or through water changes where people have hard water.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    17. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by RichToyBox View Post
      Many have to add baking soda to increase the bicarbonate to stabilize the pH. The filter bacteria produce acids that consume the bicarbonate ions so without refreshment, either in the form of baking soda additions, or through water changes where people have hard water.
      Interesting! Yeah things generally stay really stable besides ammonia. Previously my pressure filter just didn't handle things super well. Although it never got to dangerous levels I needed once a week water changes. This Oase biosmart seems to be working great but they are having more health issues this year then ever.

      From research here I've learned a lot. Going to switch their food to a much higher quality. They seem to be doing better with the Dimilin and I can see a few have already fallen off. A couple of them have bumps which I assume are unbreached anchor worms. Still noticing that white feces though..

    18. #18
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      Ok guys! Did a 40% WC yesterday and re-dosed. Things are looking good in terms of visible Anchor Worms. All fish (except one) seem very happy and are eating well. The one is coming up to the food but then running away. He is also staying isolated and away from the pack. Monitoring him closely as he has a large "bump" on his side. Also has some white flaky scales in a small patch? Others that had a small ulcer from the worm appear to have mostly healed and are not red anymore. Water stats are still on point.

      Wondering if there is any additive I should use to improve health after going through this trauma. I am not one to just willy nilly add substances to my water. But if I can improve the health during these difficult times for my babies I will.

      Also started feeding Saki-Hikari goldfish food. They seem to like it but the pellets are soooo darn small. My goldies are anywhere from 2-5". Any suggestions on food? (search for food on this page is overwhelming. So much drama )

    19. #19
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      The one fish is acting like it may be suffering from parasites other than anchor worm affecting the gills making it shy away from food and isolate, or it may be suffering from an internal infection leading to the isolation and a large bump. For the infection, if that is the case, I would look to treating with Tricide Neo. For a goldfish, I would do the baths per directions, using a small bag of liquid (about 1/3 gallon) allowing you to get three baths from the one gallon packet size.

      Parasites that would be most likely to affect the feeding would be flukes or one of the ones that could be treated with Proform C. I think I would try the Tricide first since you are not describing flashing with the other symptoms.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    20. #20
      nacnacmetz is offline Junior Member
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      Great thanks so much. Is there any additive I can put directly into the pond? I have a really hard time catching them.

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