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    Thread: Upgrading my pond from 2500g to 5000

    1. #1
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      Upgrading my pond from 2500g to 5000

      I am rebuilding my pond for the 3rd time adding a bd and a diy pre filter. Also want to install a return jet for good water circulation.
      Can anyone recommend a good 4" bottom drain w air and a return jet.
      I m so overwhelmed I hav no time to do research.
      Careful what u wish for[ATTACH=Name:  20200315_115916.jpg
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Size:  266.5 KBCONFIG]599657[/ATTACH]
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    2. #2
      stevek is offline Supporting Member
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      You can get lots of good advice on this site ! I think everyone will tell you, however, that you do need to make the commitment to do some research before you start purchasing components and installing components. You don't want to be redoing for the 4th time !

    3. #3
      Nguyen365's Avatar
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      I will enjoy your updates. personally I like smaller pond because a smaller pond will control my personal koi addiction. Bigger pond means more cost for everything and you'll want to shop for more koi to fill 5k gallons. theres so many koi I can put into my 1k gallon pond.

    4. #4
      icu2's Avatar
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      So are you just going deeper to gain more gallons or redoing the perimeter too?
      Liner or concrete? I wouldn't use "jets" as they put a lot of head on the pump and
      reduces the flow... just 2" underwater returns work better imo.

      Looking forward to watching your project!
      --Steve



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    5. #5
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      I used to hav 3 shelves which only collected debris n attracted prey so I decided to hav no shelves which gained the additional gallons, estimate of course. I will be using liner. The concrete I did on my first build thinking I was going to hav a root problem with the swamp maple directly behind. The return jet I was going to run a seperate small submersible pump within the pre filter/holding tank to accommodate 1 jet.
      Do u follow n what r ur thoughts?
      I value ur honest opinion

    6. #6
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      Thanks for ur comments
      I might have the koi bug but it s more about personal gratification and having my small part in nature an d the environment

      I also like to raise n sell koi to other enthusiast's.

    7. #7
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      Now that I'm carefully reading your post I guess I don't need a jet but something just to get the water traveling around the perimeter

    8. #8
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CharlieQ View Post
      Now that I'm carefully reading your post I guess I don't need a jet but something just to get the water traveling around the perimeter
      Exactly. And if you have enough flow for a couple of them (one on each side of the pond) it will help
      currents clean the floor of the pond and move waste to the bottom drain. Something like this:

      Name:  Image1.jpg
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      I wish I had suggestions for the BD.... the only time I bought ones I used the Koitoilet brand
      and have been happy with them. I know many have said Rhino drains are also very well built...
      but expensive.
      --Steve



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    9. #9
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      For bottom drains, I would go with the Rhino brand. Expensive, but they're built like tanks. In my 4000g I intalled a Rhino non-aerated drain and to save money, an aerated Koi Toilet drain. The Koi Toilet is really poor quality. Several screws stripped out while tightening the lid and the 4" connecting pipe is not true-to-size so the coupler would not seat all the way. Night and day difference between the other Rhino drain I used. I will never again waste money on a Koi Toilet drain.
      ~ Jose

    10. #10
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      There is a BD for $50 I saw on someone's build looks pretty solid. Non aerated

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    11. #11
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      Jose
      I almost ordered the koitoilet I know the rhino expensive but I m looking to do this job only one time.
      Appreciate ur input. I ll post pics soon
      Been a wet match n still working. God willing

    12. #12
      Asagibottom is offline Senior Member
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      Koitoilet II works well with aerator!

    13. #13
      Asagibottom is offline Senior Member
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      I've got one. easy to install, works like a champ. The air stone thing on top really diffuses the air well. Works with a 5000lph air pump and a 2500 lph

    14. #14
      Asagibottom is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by jcardona1 View Post
      For bottom drains, I would go with the Rhino brand. Expensive, but they're built like tanks. In my 4000g I intalled a Rhino non-aerated drain and to save money, an aerated Koi Toilet drain. The Koi Toilet is really poor quality. Several screws stripped out while tightening the lid and the 4" connecting pipe is not true-to-size so the coupler would not seat all the way. Night and day difference between the other Rhino drain I used. I will never again waste money on a Koi Toilet drain.
      You're right about the coupler. I had to ask my neighbor's help to get it fit right. With the two of us we finally wedged a 4" pipe deep into the coupler. Worked well. But it was difficult.

    15. #15
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      I would like to use 2 returns on this build but I don't think I can get a hole in the cynder block on the left side. Has anyone installed a return and drilled thru block?
      Will one return help push fish waste? Because I can install a return with a small pump in my pre filter for bd without compromising the 2 other pump n pressurized filters. One for water fall n one for detached bog filter
      Ur thoughts?

    16. #16
      icu2's Avatar
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      If the block is filled with cement rent a core drill. I think when I did mine it was less than $50 for a day for
      the drill and bit and it only took about a half hour to actually do.

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...84#post2059484
      --Steve



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    17. #17
      Grumpy is offline Senior Member
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      The result of drilling the block wall will depend entirely upon how the wall was constructed. If there is rebar both horizontal and vertical, you should have no issue core drilling a hole without much damage to the surrounding blocks. It will be essential that you locate your hole to avoid the embedded rebar. If you hit a bar, you will be forced to move the hole and deal with that, also you may damage the bit which can be expensive. As an option to renting a large core bit and drill, you can use a normal hammer drill and a small bit, just mark out the shape of the hole you want and make a series of small holes as close together that you can, than break out the plug with a chisel and hammer.

      If the block wall was filled with concrete without much rebar the ability to drill the hole will be easier, but the resultant hole will be more rough and irregular shaped, possible a jagged broken hole much larger than you intended. This isn't the end of the world because patching around your pipe with expanding cement mortar mix will still provide you a solid surface for your liner and will support your pipe.

      If the block wall wasn't completely filled with concrete, or if the blocks are cinder and not concrete, the jagged broken hole may become much larger, but still you should be able to patch the hole around the pipe with more of the expanding cement mortar. You may find you will need to add a mesh reinforcement to help hold the mix in place, and you may need to place layers of the mortar at a time and allow the previous layer to harden before finishing the plug.

    18. #18
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      Good advice

    19. #19
      CharlieQ is offline Senior Member
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      DIY block wall

      What do u think of my diy wall. Needed to stop runoff in a delicate corner.also for smooth liner install
      Any thoughts?
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      Last edited by icu2; 04-02-2020 at 12:25 PM. Reason: help with pic

    20. #20
      icu2's Avatar
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      --Steve



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