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  • Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: Backwash options

    1. #1
      jperry is offline Junior Member
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      Backwash options

      Im in the process of building my first real koi pond and I have a question on the filter system. Im going to be using the DIY 55 gal. drum filter system with a sieve to begin and 2 bio k1 media filters then a jap mat to polish at the falls. My question is if all this is at water level,my barrels will have to be berried. How can I backwash the system? is the a way I can use shutoff valves to only work the backwash pipes? Any suggestions would be greatly welcome.

    2. #2
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      Welcome to Koiphen.

      You mentioned your first real koi pond. What does this mean to you.

      For me it was learning the hard way. I lost a bunch of fish, a lot of money, and so many hours I will never get back. I then found this site. This is where for me the real koi pond started. The people here are so informative. There are so many different ways that everyone does things. But you will find the fundamentals of koi ponds is similar and filtration is the same just in different designs.

      These amazing ponders will be here shortly to answer any and all questions you have. going forward there are no silly questions, ask away, while remembering we learn from the mistakes that happen when questioned aren’t asked. As I mentioned I had many failures and we are talking full pond redos. You can see my posts and my pond builds in full on my threads. In all fairness my failures are about 70 percent of listening to a local builder who filled the entire pond with boulders, and “underwater undergravel” filtration which translated to disaster. But I didn’t know anything at all. Now I know a little more. But still ask away.

      As you go forward I would suggest posting pictures, area location pictures, what are your plans. Sketch on paper or just use paint in Microsoft. Post them here and it will save you time and money when the people here pick it apart while explaining why they would do what they suggest. Always remember you have been a member for a few months. So hopefully by now you have probably found your ideal look of what you want. Look through the build posts. There are so many to go through. Post that as well and maybe the people here can explain how it was done. What you can do different given your location.

      Ultimately this will be fun. And you will see more and more traffic with the more you post. Happy ponding and I look forward to seeing your progress. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND don’t start anything until your plan is finalized. This will save you money and times. I had several times I took two steps forward, post pics, then someone asked me a question and I went three steps back. I may not have learned fully. But I did learn that.

    3. #3
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    4. #4
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      Welcome jperry and thanks for joining Koiphen!

      Like was said, it'd be good to have some more information about the size and how things will be
      laid out. If you're gravity feeding a sieve you'll need the pump to follow it and if that will feed 2 barrels
      designed for biofiltration, they'll need to be raised up over pond level in order to gravity feed back to the
      pond.
      Fluid bed i.e., moving bed filters, with K1 and lots of air constantly keeping the media moving, are really
      designed to not collect much debris so I just put a simple drain on the bottom of mine so I could just flush
      whatever accumulated at the bottom into a 55 gallon waste barrel dug into the ground. Then that was
      pumped out into the woods. You can see the blue barrel dug into the ground that the waste flows to in this
      pic:

      Name:  uv.jpg
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      Most with a ground level pond and gravity filtration dig a "pit" or some sort of underground room that can
      house pumps and filters and keep it all pretty well hidden.

      Let us know more of what you have in mind and I'm sure they'll be plenty here that can help with ideas.
      Good luck and I look forward to watching the project!
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    5. #5
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      I have a 18x10x3.5 pond with a 3 in BD(air diffused) and a skimmer. Im a DIY guy so I was looking at the 55 gal drum system that Mr Wrightly(YOUTUBE) came up with with a few things of my own, like a sieve filter before the two bio filters(the 2nd bio media filter will have an air pump in it). Then comes the pump(Sequence 4000 that is 5000 gph) with a UV light and a filter falls with jap mat at the end. Id like to put in some jets to get the water moving for the fish as well as the solids down to the BD. I meant this was my first Koi pond because my first pond was only a water garden with a stream. Id like to use faux rocks as we dont really have a good selection of boulders in my area.(upstate NY) My head height is about 4 to 5 ft and all the plumbing im going to hide behind a fence about 10ft away. So from what im hearing I should dig a pit for all my plumbing but how should i plumb the backwash?I would have to go up around 3ft to get out of the pit. I could use a 3way diverter valve off the pump like a pool, right?

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      Name:  pond4.jpg
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    7. #7
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      Oops. Forgot that I would be happy with only 10 big fish. I dont think more is better in this case.

    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by jperry View Post
      I have a 18x10x3.5 pond with a 3 in BD(air diffused) and a skimmer. Im a DIY guy so I was looking at the 55 gal drum system that Mr Wrightly(YOUTUBE) came up with with a few things of my own, like a sieve filter before the two bio filters(the 2nd bio media filter will have an air pump in it). Then comes the pump(Sequence 4000 that is 5000 gph) with a UV light and a filter falls with jap mat at the end. Id like to put in some jets to get the water moving for the fish as well as the solids down to the BD. I meant this was my first Koi pond because my first pond was only a water garden with a stream. Id like to use faux rocks as we dont really have a good selection of boulders in my area.(upstate NY) My head height is about 4 to 5 ft and all the plumbing im going to hide behind a fence about 10ft away. So from what im hearing I should dig a pit for all my plumbing but how should i plumb the backwash?I would have to go up around 3ft to get out of the pit. I could use a 3way diverter valve off the pump like a pool, right?
      I know this isn't what you were asking but I think it's worth going over...
      Your dimensions work out to about 4500 gallons. An aerated 3" BD flowing 1500-2500 gph will be effective in about a 10' diameter of the pond floor,
      leaving a lot of area not covered. I'm not sure what you mean when you say "jets" but ones with a reduced diameter are not recommended due to
      the amount of pump energy they use. Most use a 2" pipe or so to create underwater flow (often called tpr's or tangential pond return) that help get debris
      to the BD's.

      If it were my pond I'd use 2 - 3" BD's but you'd need to build a sieve capable of flowing 3000-5000 gph total from the two drains. Then the skimmer
      on a separate circuit flowing another 2000 gph. I've cleaned mats and it's no fun... these are simple filters a diy'er can make and be hidden
      at the top of a stream/waterfall and cleaned easily:

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...-Gravel-Filter

      Okay, enough opinions.
      I'm assuming by "backwash" you're talking about the bio filters? I watched the video and it just looks like he adds air to agitate the media
      and has a drain in the bottom of the barrel. You can drain them to a lower barrel dug into the bottom of the pit with a separate
      submersible pump with a float switch that comes on automatically as the water level reaches a point. I tried to take another picture
      of mine that might show the waste barrel better...

      Name:  waste barrel upper pond.jpg
Views: 123
Size:  147.1 KB

      I hope that helps but if not don't hesitate to ask.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    9. #9
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      I guess the sump pump idea is what im going to do. How was he able to have his system above the pond? pressurized? thank you,Steve

    10. #10
      icu2's Avatar
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      Looking at some of his other videos all the filters are being fed by a submersible pump in the pond and so
      they're gravity returning the water to the pond. That's how he's able to use them above pond level... but
      having the pump first before the filters presents its own set of problems.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    11. #11
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      I have had so much help from Steve as well as so many others here. So here what I recommend. Go as big as you can now. As you mentioned you have done this before. So the basics are there. Same goes for me as well. But when it came to plumbing I always had help. I look forward to seeing your progress of whatever you decide. We all love watching builds.

      Do you plan on a collar for the next pond?

    12. #12
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      Im thinking I will not need a collar as im going to use faux rock around the pond. I found out about the collar after i dug the pond so My options are limited.

    13. #13
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      When considering using a rubber liner and a faux rock edge be sure to sketch out how you will secure the liner in place, how far down into the pond your faux rock will extend, how much liner you want to see above water. For me it was better to make the faux rock in several steps. A layer of concrete to lay your liner atop (basically a collar pour), install the liner into the excavation and up over the collar, than layers of faux rock atop the liner and collar for show around the edge.

      The bottom layer of concrete (collar) if properly reinforced with rebar and placed level around the pond, will provide good solid base to build your edge faux rock, will help secure the excavation from caving in, and will provide a level elevation as you make your faux stones.

    14. #14
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by jperry View Post
      Im thinking I will not need a collar as im going to use faux rock around the pond. I found out about the collar after i dug the pond so My options are limited.
      I was in the same boat and didn't know about a collar until after I'd already dug the pond... but it's not impossible
      if you want to add one. It adds a lot of support around the edge just for walking but everyone's soil is different.

      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    15. #15
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      WOW! That is some collar beam. It looks like 12 inches thick. Im thinking my soil which is hard pan and clay will support the faux rock that im doing because in a sense the faux rock will be all one cement rock ledge.Name:  hqdefault.jpg
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