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  • Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
    Results 41 to 57 of 57

    Thread: Help with plumbing for a new Zakki Sieve

    1. #41
      DangerDave is offline Senior Member
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      I flush my 2 zakki sieves on a daily basis (and its full a lot). I probably only open the top and hose down the screen once a month (and I do the pump pre-filter as well).

    2. #42
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      I have been using the Zakki for many years now. I have never used the pump flushing method of cleaning. I do use the bypass plumbing to keep the pump running when I manually clean the screen. Turn 2 valves to invoke the bypass flow, undo the lid , scoop out the junk, hose down the screen, put the lid back on, reset the 2 valves to restore normal flow, and you are back in business. I bet it only takes 2-3 minutes from start to finish . Can't get much easier than this. I use a 5 gallon pail to dump the waste and throw it in the woods to feed the trees.

      I have always thought that the flushing technique would not thoroughly clean all the sticky stuff that sticks to the screen . The hose with concentrated nozzle does a great job . Current manual approach is so easy , I never had a need to experiment.

    3. #43
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      OK. I've got a new Sketchup diagram that I think covers everything. The only winterization components are unions to allow removing things and adding in 2 simple bypasses. I've also managed to eliminate some fittings. I think this is about as good as it can get and do what I need. What do you all think?

      Name:  PondEquipment3 (1).png
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      Name:  PondEquipment3.png
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    4. #44
      Zac Penn is offline Supporting Member
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      That all looks good, but the skimmer inlet line still needs a swing check valve to keep water from flowing backwards. Unless there is an existing one somewhere else in the plumbing.
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    5. #45
      Zac Penn is offline Supporting Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by ricshaw View Post
      This is a ZAKKI Sieve? It takes me almost 2 minutes to put the lid back on.
      How long does it take you to change a lightbulb?????? LOL
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    6. #46
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zac Penn View Post
      That all looks good, but the skimmer inlet line still needs a swing check valve to keep water from flowing backwards. Unless there is an existing one somewhere else in the plumbing.
      I plan to add swing check valve on the skimmer and bottom drain outside the shed, in an irrigation box below the pond water level. Do I need the check valve on the bottom drain line outside below water level with the above setup, using a self-priming pump?

      Another couple of questions:
      After ensuring the pump is drawing from the sieve and not the bypass, could I use the pressure 3-way valve to stop flow to the filter for changing modes on the filter? This would recirculate the water in the sieve. Would this create positive pressure in the sieve? I don't think it would, but I'm not quite sure.

      If I could do this, would I want to reduce the size of the pipe on the flush line to decrease the flow when recirculating like this? For my setup, I think changing to 1" would create about the same head as the filter and down-line plumbing.

    7. #47
      Zac Penn is offline Supporting Member
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      You do not need the check valve on the bottom drain line outside of the shed.

      I would not reduce the flushing line below 2".
      When you put the sieve in recirculate mode by rotating the pressurized 3-way valve, you just eliminate the vacuum pressure on the pump, and the water goes in a circle. The pump will be pushing as maximum flow due to the lack of head pressure, but that is fine. I have customers do it all the time, while they are cleaning their bead filters. It beats having to turn the pump on and off each time you rotate the multi-port valve.
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    8. #48
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zac Penn View Post
      You do not need the check valve on the bottom drain line outside of the shed.

      I would not reduce the flushing line below 2".
      When you put the sieve in recirculate mode by rotating the pressurized 3-way valve, you just eliminate the vacuum pressure on the pump, and the water goes in a circle. The pump will be pushing as maximum flow due to the lack of head pressure, but that is fine. I have customers do it all the time, while they are cleaning their bead filters. It beats having to turn the pump on and off each time you rotate the multi-port valve.
      Great. So if I don't need the check valve on the bottom drain outside the shed, can the check valve for the skimmer be in the shed? That would mean it's above water level. It would be nice not to have to dig a hole for it.

      Oh, wait. if I hookup a little bypass in the winter that connects the bottom drain and skimmer lines, then I will need check valves on both of those lines between the pump bypass tee and the pond, right?
      Last edited by Idaho Jim; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:44 PM.

    9. #49
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Will this cause an air lock?

      I am wondering if bypassing the Zakki Sieve for winter may cause an air lock. Here is a crude diagram of how the pond will look with the sieve:Name:  PondWithSieve.png
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      Here it is with the bypass in red:Name:  PondWithSieveBypass.png
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      I assume the configuration with the sieve will work. it looks pretty standard. I guess any air is handled by the sieve.

      However, if I bypass the sieve for winter, and reduce the flow to 500 - 1000 GPH, will I get an air lock at the high point of the lines that normally go to the sieve inlets?

    10. #50
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      If You follow Zacís recommended install instructions, there already is a bipass built in ,the three way valve on the intake side will bipass the sieve and draw direct from the bottom drain and skimmer .
      I recommend a slight change in the directions of the three way valve on the output side of the pump. Those three way valves have very sharp corners inside, and changing the flow directions so that normal filter flow goes straight through the valve , will give less restriction. Use the 90 degree side of the valve to flow to bipass /sieve flush mode . Name:  D18E13C0-9E5F-4EA1-A9B5-4763860B5A60.jpg
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      Blue arrow shows a preferred bipass/sieve flush direction
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      Red arrow shows a preferred flow straight through the three way valve to bead filter . If You lower the three way valve , and use a big sweep elbow to flow To the bead filter , You will have less restriction.

      Something like this
      Name:  D2EF568C-CCE7-4468-AF05-84F5C46AA637.jpg
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    11. #51
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by catfish whiskers View Post
      If You follow Zacís recommended install instructions, there already is a bipass built in ,the three way valve on the intake side will bipass the sieve and draw direct from the bottom drain and skimmer .
      Using the normal sieve bypass will only draw from the bottom drain, not the skimmer. I have a couple options to draw from both; something like my drawing, or something the jumps the bottom drain and skimmer lines together and uses the existing bypass. I'm not sure which make the most sense yet. In either case, the pipe will go up and then back down, without the sieve, making a big upside-down "U". So, my big question is still, do I need to worry about an air lock here?
      Name:  PondWithSieveBypass.png
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    12. #52
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      OK , then connecting the skimmer and BD lines together with a valve in between , will let You draw from both . You do have a bipass line already in place , and what You are planning is not necessary

    13. #53
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by catfish whiskers View Post
      OK , then connecting the skimmer and BD lines together with a valve in between , will let You draw from both . You do have a bipass line already in place , and what You are planning is not necessary
      Yes, but the end result is still the same regarding the concern for an air lock. Whether it's a temporary bypass I add for the winter or the normal sieve bypass, the pipes still run up about 2 feet and then down to the pump. It's that up and down, upside-down "U" that makes me worry about an air lock. Here's what using the existing bypass would look like:Name:  PondWithSieveBypass2.png
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      Last edited by Idaho Jim; 3 Weeks Ago at 04:45 PM. Reason: Add drawing

    14. #54
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Yes , their is always a chance of air Lock in an up , then down situation , especially if the water level gets below the skimmer . Your check valve on the skimmer line should help with that. Adding a TEE with a short piece of clear PVC ,and a sealed cap , at a high point in that line , will give You a sight glass and a place to fill the pipe to displace any collected air.
      I use these o ringed plugs https://www.poolzoom.com/1-1-2-plug-with-o-ring.html

    15. #55
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by catfish whiskers View Post
      Yes , their is always a chance of air Lock in an up , then down situation , especially if the water level gets below the skimmer . Your check valve on the skimmer line should help with that. Adding a TEE with a short piece of clear PVC ,and a sealed cap , at a high point in that line , will give You a sight glass and a place to fill the pipe to displace any collected air.
      I use these o ringed plugs https://www.poolzoom.com/1-1-2-plug-with-o-ring.html
      That plug with the o-ring is pretty cool. Never seen something like that. Do you just screw that into a socket to threaded 1 1/2" PVC coupler? Schedule 40 or 80?

    16. #56
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Idaho Jim View Post
      That plug with the o-ring is pretty cool. Never seen something like that. Do you just screw that into a socket to threaded 1 1/2" PVC coupler? Schedule 40 or 80?
      Very handy plug that seals without tools
      I’ve only found them in 1 1/2’’ , You can screw them into a female electrical conduit adapter , or a female NPT adapter , or a 2’’ to 1 1/2’’ bushing with female threads has a nice wide shoulder to seal against. If the shoulder of any of the fittings has molded markings on the face , sand it smooth to give a better sealing surface.

    17. #57
      Idaho Jim is offline Member
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      Final layout!!!????

      Thanks everyone for the feedback. Here is what I hope is the last layout before I start ordering parts and building. Actually, the Zakki Sieve is ordered. Just need to figure out the rest. Here is what I have now:

      Name:  PondEquipment3b2.png
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      I moved the filter away from the vent on the back wall to under the window. I wasn't able to move the pressurized 3-way valve down without it being partially blocked by the skimmer pipe. However, I did squeeze it in after a sweep 90. There are check valves on the bottom drain and skimmer outside the shed that are not pictured. Yes, there are 2 ball valves on the bottom drain line. Since I've read about check valves failing, I decided to use a ball valve for the necessary shutoff for flushing the sieve. The second valve is there for the winter bypass mode. Speaking of that, here it is (a couple of valves are in the wrong position):

      Name:  PondEquipment3b2_winter.png
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      I don't know if I will even bother with this. We've always shut down the filter for the winter before, but that was because we could not shut down the boulder and stream without shutting down the filter. We need to shut down the boulder and stream because ice builds up and could divert water and empty the pond. With this change, we can keep the filter (and sieve) running without the boulder and stream.

      Hopefully there is nothing blatantly wrong. It's time to build this in real life and stop building it in Sketchup

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