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    Thread: Fish rot or something else?

    1. #21
      Tianzo is offline Member
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      Hi Steve,

      Thanks for chiming in again. Salinity is in % so should be 0.29ppm. As for the Nitrite borrowed a colorimeter from a friend and this was the reading. Now getting worried
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    2. #22
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      Just did a check and the resolution of the Nitrite moves in increment of 1mg/L

      Nitrite Range Freshwater
      Low Range: 0 to 600 μg/L (as NO2--N)
      High Range: 0 to 150 mg/L (as NO2-)
      Seawater Ultra Low Range: 0 to 200 μg/L (as NO2--N)
      Nitrite Resolution Freshwater: 1 μg/L; 1 mg/L
      Seawater: 1 μg/L

      I am using the High Range Reagent, guess not very accurate

    3. #23
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      Ok Guess the colorimeter reagent was not the right one to be used for pond. API test kit showing 0.5 to 1ppm
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    4. #24
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      The looks much better.
      Still high but since your ammonia is dropping and the nitrites and nitrates are rising, it
      looks like the pond is developing a normal bio cycle. Keep the salt level at .1% to .15%
      to protect the fish from the elevated nitrite and the level should start coming down in a couple
      weeks.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    5. #25
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      The numbers are doing what they should be doing for going through the cycle. The nitrite is high and if your salinity is in ppt, then it should be high enough to protect the fish. 2.9ppt = 0.29% The only way to lower the nitrate is to do water changes, effectively diluting the nitrates with each water change. Within a couple of weeks the nitrites should start to come down. The nitrates start to become an issue when they go over 40ppm, and at 80ppm, the skin should not be as bright and soft looking as it should be, but won't otherwise hurt the fish. If the population is high, and the feed is high then the nitrates will go high based on percent water change. You may end up having to do up to 25% several times a week if the pond is small, the fish are numerous and big and being fed heavy.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    6. #26
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      Thanks Guys for the advice. I am currently do a daily 5% water change via an overflow and not doing a manual back flush. Do you think i should raise the water water changes to 10% daily while the pond is cycling or is that too much?

    7. #27
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      I don't think that 10% per day is unreasonable. Once the cycle has completed, then the amount changed per day should be based on maintaining a good nitrate level. Nitrates can only be removed by dilution or by plants, but plants really prefer ammonia, and the maintenance associated with having plants is another story.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
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    8. #28
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      Thank you all! sorry for having to ask so many questions but what would be a comfortable lvl for Nitrates? below 40ppm?

    9. #29
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      Below 40 would be good. I had some times where mine ran over 60ppm, but others would worry themselves silly with nitrates that high.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

    10. #30
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      Got it Thanks Rich

    11. #31
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      Hi All, just chiming with the latest test results

      Ponds stats as of 4 Aug’19

      PH 7.5
      Salinity 2.8
      Ammonia 3.0 ppm
      Nitrite 0.25 ppm
      Nitrate 30ppm

      Pond stat as of 13 Aug'19
      PH 7.5
      Salinity 3.40
      Ammonia 2.23 mg/l
      Nitrite 13 mg/l
      Nitrate 15.2 mg/l
      Dissolved Oxygen 5.9 mg/l

      Pond stat as of 18 Aug'19
      PH 7.6
      Salinity 2.90
      Ammonia 0.08 mg/l
      Nitrite 23 mg/l
      Nitrate 27.4 mg/l
      Dissolved Oxygen 6.2 mg/l

      Pond stat as of 26 Aug'19
      PH 7.5
      Salinity 0.19
      Ammonia 0.13 mg/l
      Nitrite 0.25 ppm
      Nitrate 30.0 ppm

      It seems that Cycling is happening but increased lvls in Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate compared to a week ago a little worrying. Would you recommend to hold back feeding a little till i see some improvements in lvls?

      Currently doing 7 feeding of about 1 Tablespoon (15mg) of food each session. 13 Kois in total medium sized
      Last edited by Tianzo; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:51 PM.

    12. #32
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      I didn't see if you'd gotten a chance to test your source water?
      If your source water has lower levels than the pond you could increase water changes
      or reduce feeding, or both, to see if the bio filters will catch up.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    13. #33
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      Thanks again Steve. Will do a test on the source and see what i get. Will report back

    14. #34
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      Hi All found some time to do a source water test, this is what came up.

      Ammonia 0.15 mg/l
      Nitrite 0.00
      Nitrate 5 ppm

      Not too sure if these readings make sense as there is ammonia and Nitrate readings but no Nitrite?

    15. #35
      icu2's Avatar
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      I'm not sure how the water system works in Singpore but mine comes from a drilled well and will sometimes
      show ammonia at different times of the year, so I don't think it's all that unusual, but it might explain the rise
      in your ammonia reading.
      If you're still using the Aquaculture Photometer I was reading about it and believe it's reading total ammonia
      as opposed to just NH3 (toxic). Depending on your pond temperature and pH, I think even at .13 your pond is
      well within the safe limits. Check the water temperature and there's a chart that you can put your NH3-N reading
      from the Photometer and see what the NH3 level is and if it's safe:

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/koicalcs.php?do=calcnh3c
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    16. #36
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      Thanks Steve will take a look at it

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