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    Thread: Thick red tail and fins. Spreading!

    1. #41
      Marilyn's Avatar
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      One more thing, if you do need to medicate you need to have an accurate measurement of the water in your pond.
      What are the dimensions of your pond? Width, length and depth please.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

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    2. #42
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      Quote Originally Posted by Marilyn View Post
      Terminate is the same thing, I think. When you pick it up, make sure it is a combo of Malachite Green and Formalin. That is what you need.
      I don't use any Prazi products any longer. I stopped using them years ago after discussing it with vets and some Europeans that had also found it didn't work and the dosing had to be raised tremendously for efficacy. Go with FlukeM.

      To recap, a Malachite Green/Formalin product and FlukeM. Buy enough that you can treat 3+ times. The M/G&F is used for 3 doses, the FlukeM I've never had to use more than twice to get rid of flukes. FlukeM is also effective for a number of internal parasites. It's another reason I prefer it.
      I'm going to order the ProformC and the FlukeM now. I can have both of them delivered in about two days, I think. Even though my bio falls filter is off, I have kept the air bubbler running in it and the water that is in there isn't stinky or dirty. Should I drain the water out of the filter or let it flow into the pond? The media (K-2) seems to be collecting debris but doesn't yet appear to have the nice coating of beneficial bacteria that I have seen on similar set-ups. I'll absolutely thoroughly clean and drain the bog before getting that running anywhere near the pond again!

    3. #43
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      Thanks for thinking of that! The pond is 9' wide and 18 feet long. These are internal dimensions. The sides of the pond are rocked in. The measurements are from stone to stone. I measure this way to accommodate for the volume of water take up by stone. Is that the correct way of doing it? I also have two ledges for plants and a large koi tunnel. The pond is 4' deep. How precise do we need to be in terms of the gallons, for medicating purposes? I can get more specifics if needed.

    4. #44
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      Any filter that has not been running needs to be cleaned out. Do not flow water into it. A ways back in the thread Rich talked about anaerobic bacteria. It's the bacteria that proliferates in stagnant areas. It is NOT what you want to put into the pond. Even with the bubbler going, you haven't had the influx of pond water and outflow back to the pond.
      Since the filter has been offline, purge all water, agitate the media and purge again. The air going to it is only part of the equation. What makes it work is the turnover through the filter, too.

      So I have a recollection of you saying you had a 4k pond but I didn't find that on a quick search through this thread. We have to know, absolutely, how much water you are treating with medications. Too little for the gallons and it won't work, too much and you can hurt your fish. Did you have it metered to fill it initially? If not, post the dimensions so we can try and work out how much water there is to treat.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    5. #45
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      Oops, cross posting!

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    6. #46
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      Wow, it does not look 4' deep!

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    7. #47
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      So, with those dimensions it is coming up at 4850 gallons. Now you have to calculate the shallow areas for depth, length and width. We can subtract them from the 4850.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    8. #48
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      Just reading up on the ClorAm-X and apparently it can have a slight odor if stored for too long. I must have gotten a less fresh batch this time around (not that it matters, apparently). I guess I can rule that out as a possible irritant.

    9. #49
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      We are working on getting the filters up and running this morning and are topping off the pond. I am flushing and re-flushing everything! I'll triple check depth once we are completely full. I will also take all take dimensions again, just to be extra sure, and will get back to you with them this afternoon. Thanks! My sick Koi unfortunately does not look any better and is still laying in front of the bubbler. Not eating. The other koi are nudging it to get it moving occasionally. It looks as though it is getting skinnier to me also.

    10. #50
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      I'm sorry, I was hoping it was purely a water quality issue but the addition of new koi heightens the chance they brought something with them.
      We'll calculate the gallons and hopefully the medications arrive soon.

      When you're out there, snap some pics of "bubblers" please. I'm not convinced they will be adequate during medicating. Does your local shop carry air pumps? It's always good to have another air pump. When I had a pond and qt I think I had over 5 air pumps.

      A spare is great for when you're medicating. I always increase the aeration during treatments because it minimizes the chance of hotspots of medication. You don't want them swimming in a cloud of super strength medication. Medications can be hard on their gills, so more air helps them handle medications more easily.
      Extra air pumps also help when water temps are high and the dissolved oxygen is lowest.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

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    11. #51
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      I hope that Marilyn will agree with me, but a better method of volume determination is by use of salinity. If you have a salt meter or TDS meter, you can determine the salinity of the pond before adding any salt, and then after several hours of circulation with a known volume of salt, and then using the difference and the calculator at the top of the page, a pretty accurate volume determination can be made. If your pond is 4000 gallons and you add one 40 pound bag of solar crystals, water softener salt, not pelletized, then your salinity should go up 0.12%. That is within the range that she has mentioned before for treating with Proform C which states on the label to now use with salt, but experience says it is OK. The beauty of the salt test is that it measures not only the pond, but the bio filter, bog, and all plumbing in the system, which will be getting treated with the pond.
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    12. #52
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      Absolutely, I wish I had remembered it as an option.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    13. #53
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      So, let me get this straight. I should buy a salt meter (I'm assuming this is the type purchased for use with saltwater aquariums) and a 40lb bag of salt, I assume this can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes?) and add 40 lbs of salt to my pond before treating with ProformC and FlukeM (both of which are scheduled for delivery before 9:00 pm tonight)? The instructions I was given by the distributor for the meds specifically said DO NOT USE SALT with these meds. Will this salt harm my bog plants? I'm grateful for but so confused by all of this dizzying information. The good news is that the pond is almost fully topped off and both the bog filter and the waterfall biofilter are up and running. My sick fish doesn't look any worse but is still lethargic. I've been testing re-testing and adding baking soda and water at a dizzying pace because I now know that my source water has low KH and I'm trying to bring my KH up! Managed to get KH to 80 yesterday but PH had dropped from 7.8 to 7.4 this morning because of the pond filling slowly overnight. Added more baking soda this morning and will add more this afternoon for a total of 20 ozs today and 20 more tomorrow, according to the calculator. I have to get some actual work done today to support these fish and this pond so I will report back this afternoon after work. in the meantime I will purchase the salt and meter but will wait for confirmation before adding it. Marilyn, I will get the dimensions to you this afternoon as well, if we decide to go that route. I will also take some pics or video of the pond (although uploading video has been a nightmare, operator error I'm sure) so you can see the bubbling action. You may be right about needing some additional air if the air hose around the perimeter only isn't enough. However, I can turn on the return jet and run it high above the surface of the pond and add turbidity that way, if that will help. Also we will be working on the 3" skimmer line tomorrow in the early morning (doing all of this work, even though it is work being done in and around water, during the heat wave that we are having is absolutely grueling!!) and I can get that running and it will add about 8k gallons per hour coming through both waterfalls back into the pond. I truly appreciate all of the thought you guys are putting into this for me!!! Thanks!

    14. #54
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      Your supply place may carry a salt meter. One of the brands is called Koi Medic.

      We're trying to get your gallons accurately before you add medications. It's safer and minimizes the overdose risk. If we calculate the gallons inaccurately then we may also be under-medicating which just wastes money. Don't worry about the dimensions, this is more than irregular dimensions and the mass in gravel displacing water.

      So yes, get some pure solar salt (HD, Lowes, etc), it will say no additives. Measure the salt level in your pond before you add it then, a few hours later, test it again. The difference is your value. Take that to the salinity calculator at the top of the main page here and you can calculate your total gallons for your pond. Simply put in the value and 40lbs and it will do the rest.

      It's okay to have that level of salt while doing the medications. Some say salinity can be as high as .3 and use MG/F but I never chance it. I have done it at up to .15 with plenty of aeration.

      And I'm hoping the pond is full, and the KH is 120 soon.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    15. #55
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      Hi Marilyn. I got the salt but I can't get the salinity meter today I went to two pet stores and neither had one. I would have to wait AGAIN to have it delivered by Amazon or drive 3 hours to Baltimore to my supplier tomorrow, which I just can't possibly do. I just came home to find one of my new smaller koi is now floating and looks worse than my large sick koi that we'd been previously discussing. The pond is full, the meds are here. The filters are ruining. The KH is at 100. I can't sit by and just watch my fish die. Is the salinity meter that critical at this juncture? Isn't adding the meds now better than adding nothing? My pond from rock to rock is 9x18 and is 3'10" deep right now (and needs another two to three inches to be completely full, which we won't do until we get the liner edges properly done). I have two large shelves that are 3x5 each. One has a koi tunnel smack dab in the center that is filled with water and is 36"x36. These dimensions may not prove exact gallonage but I think we can get close. I shouldn't wait days wait for a salinity test to get the gallons perfect while my fish die, right?!?! HELP! I have two fish that are in serious trouble right now!
      Last edited by PRIDEANDKOI; 07-18-2019 at 06:17 PM.

    16. #56
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      Here is the link for the calculator I used initially:

      https://www.apifishcare.com/pond-calculator.php

      The medications will have the doses listed on them. If it were me, I would dose for both the FlukeM and MG/F at the same time, the first dose. Then follow the directions for them individually.
      If you don't have a salt meter, I wouldn't use the salt. Lots of air for them, please.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    17. #57
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      Hi Rich. I managed to get the salt but I can't get the salinity meter today. I went to two pet stores and neither had one. I would have to wait to have it delivered by Amazon or drive 3 hours to Baltimore to my supplier tomorrow, which I just can't possibly do. I just came home to find one of my new smaller koi is now floating and looks worse than my large sick koi that we'd been previously discussing. The pond is full, the meds are here. The filters are ruining. The KH is at 100. I feel helpless and negligent just sitting by and watching my fish die. Is the salinity meter that critical at this juncture? Isn't adding the meds now better than adding nothing for a few more days (my supplier isn't even open on the weekends)? My pond from rock to rock is 9x18 and is 3'10" deep right now (and needs another two to three inches to be completely full, which we won't do until we get the liner edges properly done). I have two large shelves that are 3x5 each. One has a koi tunnel smack dab in the center that is filled with water and is 36"x36". These dimensions may not prove exact gallonage but I think we can get close. I shouldn't wait days wait for a salinity test to get the gallons perfect while my fish die, right?!?! HELP! I have two fish that are in serious trouble right now!

    18. #58
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      Yes. I will. Thank you!!! Going to do it RIGHT NOW!!! Will update with any changes good or bad. Praying!!!

    19. #59
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      Please remember what I said about hotspots. Spread the medications throughout the pond.

      Still learning as I go but y'all can call me Marilyn

    20. #60
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      Even though you may be going ahead with best guess, I am going to recommend getting that salt meter or TDS meter. The salt meter measures in percent or in ppt, and you want a change in value of 0.12% or 1.2ppt as the results if the pond truly is 4000 gallons with 40 pounds of salt, and any other number indicates an error in the guess. Most TDS meters measure in ppm, so the number would be 1200ppm, but may show rounding to stay within a 3 digit output, so may be showing ppt if it goes above 1000ppm. The TDS meters are much cheaper, just require some additional math. See https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tds+meter...nb_sb_ss_i_1_3
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