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  • Results 1 to 8 of 8

    Thread: Well Water Koi Pond "Recipe" & Koi with Tail Fin Blisters

    1. #1
      Gophins is offline Member
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      Well Water Koi Pond "Recipe" & Koi with Tail Fin Blisters

      I have had great help form the Koiphen Community. Looking for a formula to maintain pond and maybe help a koi.

      Right now I have the following:
      2014 established Koi Pond
      6,000 Gallons +/-
      20 koi 6 - 12 inches
      10 koi 12 - 24 inches
      looking to find homes for smaller koi and reduce population
      Advantage Bead Filter rated for 10,000 gallons on a 3/4 HP pump
      another 3/4 HP pump driving water falls
      UV Sterilizer
      Air Stone
      Skimmer
      2 bottom drains
      Very few plants
      Rubber liner with many rocks around the edge but bare liner bottom
      Well Water
      Water changes of 620 Gallons a day per flow meter on hose. Done in 30 minute increments 4 times a day to get to a total of 620 gallons daily so I can get a 50% change done over 5 days (excessive because I am about to go on vacation and will be turning it off for 2 weeks)
      Backwashing Filter 2 - 3 times weekly
      Treating with koizyme routinely
      Seneye Pond Monitor for parameters, back tested with Pinpoint tester for PH and then standard test tube API test kits for various parameters

      Maryland Resident
      Pond Temperature in the low 70's currently
      PH: 8.38%
      NH3: 0.001 - 0.010
      Dissolved Oxygen: 8.7
      Nitrite: 0 (I have never gotten a Nitrite reading, I may have missed it in cycling over the years)
      Nitrate: 35 PPM
      KH: 13 drops
      GH: Can not get it to register

      Very OCD and want to try and provide ideal parameters without being a chem lab.

      Adding sodium bicarbonate and calcium chloride to control ph and run bead filter. Salt in the spring and here and there throughout.

      I have one koi (my newest about 3 months in has some white blisters on the tail fin. Looks like pimples but not ich, some really minor red on one side fin. Swimming normal and feeding aggressively, only koi in the pond with these and it has been there about a month. What is it and how do I treat? I sadly do not have a quarantine / treatment pond.

      I wanted to know if there was a formula for:
      Daily "trickle" water change. How many gallons per day should I do
      Based on that how much:
      Sodium bicarbonate should I add daily / weekly
      Calcium chloride daily / weekly
      Salt level to maintain

      or am I better to get to a point where the well water changes is all I am doing? I was under the impression the higher PH and sodium bicarbonate was essential for the bead filter but feel like I am constantly a chemist.

      Is there a "recipe"?

      THANKS IN ADVANCE ! Headed out of town soon and have pond sitters to help but looking for long term formula.

      Brent

    2. #2
      RickF's Avatar
      RickF is offline Senior Member ~ Koi Health Care Committee Member
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      What us the KH of the well water? Also, what is the pH of the well water immediately out of the tap and after it has been aerated?

      A flow through system can be maintained without adding any chemicals, but the flow rate depends on the source water. If the KH of the source water is high enough, then a flow rate as low as 10% of the pond volume per week might be enough. Each pond is different, so you will just need to monitor the pond to find a point where morning and afternoon pH are the same and nitrate does not go up.

      With a flow through system, a high KH is not necessary, because you are preventing a pH swing by constantly changing the water. In a closed system, KH is critical, because it is the KH that is preventing pH swings.

      If aerating the well water causes the pH to rise, then it is extremely important that the aeration in the pond is sufficient to drive out carbon dioxide. Idealy, the source water would be aerated as it is being added to the pond.

      Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

    3. #3
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      Many times the small blister like spots on fins is encysted juvenile anchor worm and Dimilin will cause them to disappear over time, as they exit and try to grow as full blown anchor worm, and without grown, then continued cycles will cease.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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      Richard

    4. #4
      ricshaw is offline Supporting Member
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      Is the Advantage Bead Filter your only biological filtration?

    5. #5
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      I will test the ph of the hose water and report back. And yes the bead filter is the only source of filtration. But I would like to add more for the pump that just drives the falls. Although ammonia has been under control.

    6. #6
      Gophins is offline Member
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      So out of the hose:
      3 drops KH 53.7 ppm
      5.95 ph no aeration
      7.75 after 30 minutes of aeration
      7.97 after 45 minutes of aeration

      I was under the impression that for the bead filter to function properly it would require relatively high ph and kh.

      Do my parameters allow for a relatively chemical free open ended system?
      If so how much water and how often. I have a hose with a reliable timer that can go as often as 4 times a day to spread out the daily flow. The hose is at the top of the water falls so the new water merges with water flowing over the falls for a 3 foot drop into the pond or it can be directed into the pond where the various jets are located to enter that way.

      Thoughts on salt levels throughout the summer?

      Thanks so much for your help!!!
      Brent

    7. #7
      Gophins is offline Member
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      You mention without nitrate going up. Why would it be different in an open system. I am noticing ammonia has been great but nitrates are up as I have been doing the higher water changes leading up to vacation.

      Thanks

    8. #8
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      Unless you are experiencing nitrites, there is little or no need for salt. My experience with bead filters was all on closed systems. The conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate produces significant amounts of acid which can push the pond to a pH crash, which neither the filter or the fish like. With your relatively low tap KH, I would be wary of not using baking soda until I saw what the system would do, which would mean fairly frequent testing over time to see what the values are on a steady state condition, which means that I would not start it before going off on vacation.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

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