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  • Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: 3000 gal pond build

    1. #1
      calebzman's Avatar
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      3000 gal pond build

      The design is complete and I've dug out the area where the pond will go. I plan to pour concrete for the bottom and block/mortar for the sides. The two rows of block behind the pond will be a raised bed for plants. This is my second pond build. I've used this site for a lot of research for both ponds. There's a few things from doing the first pond (1500 gal) that I'm changing this time around. All the filtration will go in the corner of the yard. How does it look? Any suggestions or changes? Also, the attached pdf is a little clearer than the picture.

      Attachment 592250
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    2. #2
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      Looking good. Only suggestion if budget permitting bigger and deeper otherwise seems like a solid plan

    3. #3
      Lue is offline Member
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      My pond is 4.5 ft deep, all cemented. If I had a chance to rebuilt, I should had built it deeper. Beside you adding concrete to bottom; you will also lose 4-6". I understand you are doing a above ground pond; probably to the height of your deck, but if you go deeper; you will get more volume, allowing you to do more with your pond.

    4. #4
      tbullard is offline Senior Member
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      How are you waterproofing the pond? Liners don't work well with L shaped ponds.

    5. #5
      icu2's Avatar
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      Welcome and thanks for joining Koiphen!
      Beautiful drawings.

      I'd be afraid to run directly to the shower from a SC. If you can afford a sieve it will save you space and sooo much
      maintenance.
      How is the SC connected to the skimmers designed? Normally debris coming from a skimmer by its nature is floating
      debris and won't "settle".

      Looks like a cool design and can't wait to watching the build!
      --Steve
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      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    6. #6
      calebzman's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nguyen365 View Post
      Looking good. Only suggestion if budget permitting bigger and deeper otherwise seems like a solid plan
      Quote Originally Posted by Lue View Post
      My pond is 4.5 ft deep, all cemented. If I had a chance to rebuilt, I should had built it deeper. Beside you adding concrete to bottom; you will also lose 4-6". I understand you are doing a above ground pond; probably to the height of your deck, but if you go deeper; you will get more volume, allowing you to do more with your pond.
      The height will be 52" from the top of the concrete to the water level. I would've went deeper, but I ran into my main water line that's visible in the picture. I figured it would be too much trouble to try to reroute it.

      Quote Originally Posted by tbullard View Post
      How are you waterproofing the pond? Liners don't work well with L shaped ponds.
      I plan to apply a layer of mortar to the inside of the walls to seal it. I see mixing Xypex with the mortar is recommended here, so I was going to look into doing that.

      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      I'd be afraid to run directly to the shower from a SC. If you can afford a sieve it will save you space and sooo much
      maintenance.
      How is the SC connected to the skimmers designed? Normally debris coming from a skimmer by its nature is floating
      debris and won't "settle".
      I was going to add a small filter basket in the settlement chamber to get some additional filtering prior to entering the shower. Do you think that will be good enough?

      The skimmers are gravity flow to the settlement chamber. This was a compromise b/c from my first pond I didn't like cleaning the skimmer netting/bag every day. Also, sometimes the smaller fish or frogs would get trapped in there and I'd rather they have a better chance to survive in the barrel until I notice them. I'll probably have a small pre-filter in the barrel as well to avoid the floating debris moving on.

    7. #7
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      I will leave the filtration comments to the experts, but I love your drawings.

    8. #8
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      I used Xypex on my block pond and added their product called Admix to the concrete when I filled
      the block cells. Then used Xypex Concentrate, which you mix into a thick slurry that I brushed on
      the interior. It's worked well

      When I had a SC I used prefilter baskets in them and before moving bed filters instead of a shower. The
      moving beds still collected a lot of mulm and debris at the bottom that would need flushing out occasionally.
      With a shower this would be really hard to do so if you go with the shower I'd put matala mats or some type
      of additional mechanical filtering at the top of it that could be easily cleaned and help keep more debris out
      of the shower media.

      It might have just been a logistic in the drawing but no need to put the UV up that high and have to pump
      the water higher than necessary.
      Sand and gravel filters are usually pump fed from the bottom. They can be fed over the top but it needs
      another pipe that feeds the air manifold to clean.
      I've seen others feed skimmers to a larger collection barrel but I've never tried it so can't comment on
      how well it'll work. I sure understand the desire to clean the baskets less often.

      Just some more to think about!
      --Steve
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      "I know what I have to do now. I got to keep breathing. Because tomorrow the sun will rise.
      Who knows what the tide could bring." --Tom Hanks in Cast Away

    9. #9
      ricshaw is offline Supporting Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by calebzman View Post
      I plan to apply a layer of mortar to the inside of the walls to seal it. I see mixing Xypex with the mortar is recommended here, so I was going to look into doing that.
      I have plastered the inside of three concrete ponds to water proof them. I did not use Xypex, but would if I was doing it again.


      member

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      I used Xypex on my block pond and added their product called Admix to the concrete when I filled
      the block cells. Then used Xypex Concentrate, which you mix into a thick slurry that I brushed on
      the interior. It's worked well
      Quote Originally Posted by ricshaw View Post
      I have plastered the inside of three concrete ponds to water proof them. I did not use Xypex, but would if I was doing it again.
      Thatís good to know. Iíd rather be safe, so I will definitely use the Xypex.

      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      When I had a SC I used prefilter baskets in them and before moving bed filters instead of a shower. The
      moving beds still collected a lot of mulm and debris at the bottom that would need flushing out occasionally.
      With a shower this would be really hard to do so if you go with the shower I'd put matala mats or some type
      of additional mechanical filtering at the top of it that could be easily cleaned and help keep more debris out
      of the shower media.

      It might have just been a logistic in the drawing but no need to put the UV up that high and have to pump
      the water higher than necessary.
      Sand and gravel filters are usually pump fed from the bottom. They can be fed over the top but it needs
      another pipe that feeds the air manifold to clean.
      I've seen others feed skimmers to a larger collection barrel but I've never tried it so can't comment on
      how well it'll work. I sure understand the desire to clean the baskets less often.
      I'll plan for extra mechanical filtration in the top shower container just in case.

      I didn't think about the extra head from having the UV filter up so high. I was just trying to ensure enough room for access to all the valves. I also moved the S/G inlet to the bottom and added the air pump piping. Thanks!

      Name:  pond assembly rev1.jpg
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    11. #11
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      Quote Originally Posted by Lue View Post
      My pond is 4.5 ft deep, all cemented. If I had a chance to rebuilt, I should had built it deeper. Beside you adding concrete to bottom; you will also lose 4-6". I understand you are doing a above ground pond; probably to the height of your deck, but if you go deeper; you will get more volume, allowing you to do more with your pond.
      This is my opinion, I am not a master of koi construction but these are my thought.

      1. From the pic, your water line looks pvc; are you able to dig lower and covert the pipe down and up with 90' coupling. Most water line are 1 1/2"

      2. Depending on quality of koi you intend to keep. If pond koi, you are fine. Having a above ground pond is like having a above swimming pool. During the evening/night water are sometimes very cold and during the day, the water can get pretty hot. The influtalution of temperature will put a lot of stress on your koi, even if you cover your pond. Having it deeper in the ground, the ground will keep the water consistent. To hot, ground will help keep it cool. When you guys get snow, the ground helps keep the water warm.

      3. Having a 4 ft height might cause you a lot of stress if it leaks. Your water pressure will push, the heat of the sun or snow hiting the wall, might help contribute to wall crack/leaking. Most ponds that have above ground cement filter pit found to crack/leak in 6-18 years. I will put my life to it, every cement will crack; even a sidewalk. I rather have a leak in the ground, where I wouldn't see it; to me. it just helps me do my water change. Beside this, the ground will help with the water pressure pushing the wall out.

      4. Having your skimmer gravity fed to settlement chamber will just have more problems for you. Now you are stuck with leaves, frogs, and others debris there, until you get to it. Maybe try a no niche skimmers, from what I see, small fish don't get in. It doesn't matter if it gets full because you are connected to the sc; therefore, it just will not skim the top for your pond; it is telling to empty it or clean it. A buddy of my use a stick with a hook to retrieve it. I see that you have valve for bottom drain and skimmers. That is a must; to be able to control the skimmer flow and to clean the settlement chamber.

      5. It seems like you got a lot of chambers/filter in your settlement chamber before it goes to the shower. Make sure, it easy to clean, because it gonna get plug up real quick. Even a small basket for extra filter, might cause you to change it daily.

      This is just my thoughts
      Last edited by Lue; 4 Days Ago at 07:24 AM.

    12. #12
      DragonFireSG is offline Senior Member
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      Bit more regarding that water line. It might be good as Lue mentioned to get that water line running deeper.

      If you must keep the line running using its current path, you will want to trench and bed that line well as per best practices for buried pipe.
      The pond may (will) settle over the years, and that's not good for a water line - especially since a line rupture cannot be reached for repair because it is under 12" of concrete pond floor.

      Personally, I'd go the extra mile to reroute the line outside the pond perimeter to avoid unexpected future complications. It doesn't look like an impossible amount of work.

      And just maybe you can extend your pond depth by another foot because that pesky water line is now out of the way!

    13. #13
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      The water line is PVC. I guess whether or not I decide to dig deeper, it sounds like a good idea to move the line from under the pond. I'll see how easy it is to shut off the water at the street valve to reroute the line.

      As far as temperatures, I don't have to worry about cold or snow. The summer heat could be a concern.

      I'm currently trying to decide if I will mix & pour the concrete floor myself or get a truck to pour it.

    14. #14
      DangerDave is offline Senior Member
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      All I know is where did you find all the 3d models for the bits and valves and would you be kin enough to share them?

    15. #15
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      CAD files for the valves can be downloaded from McMaster-Carr. Everything else I created from a sketch.

      1-1/2"
      2"
      3"
      4"

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