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  • Results 1 to 15 of 15

    Thread: Advice on mortar

    1. #1
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Advice on mortar

      I have a 10” footer. There is one course of 8*8*16 cinder blocks on top. The cinder blocks are flush with the interior edge of the footer as the liner will run up and over.

      The question I have is, what’s the best way to flush out 2” lip so that I can have an even surface to use stacked stone on outside?
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

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      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Is the stone pretty even size?

      When I apply tile for the planter
      I normally use a string for straight line and trim the tile to fit the footing
      Do you have some picture or reference? Stone Material I hope not flag stones
      Stucco sound the easiest solution
      Last edited by OCkoiFan; 01-22-2019 at 12:25 AM.
      M.Nguyen


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      Grumpy is offline Senior Member
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      You could stand pavers on edge, some are 2" thick and about 8" x 16" to match the block joints. They would be a facing of the block wall.

      https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rectangle-G...5-6-in/3018997

      Attach the blocks with mortar and use a couple tap-con screws thru each paver into the blocks. Seems like alot of work, are you sure you don't want the stacked stone to start on the top of the footing? Many of the stacked stones are about 1" to 1.5" thick, so very little of the footing would be exposed.

    4. #4
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by berkokid View Post
      I have a 10” footer. There is one course of 8*8*16 cinder blocks on top. The cinder blocks are flush with the interior edge of the footer as the liner will run up and over.

      The question I have is, what’s the best way to flush out 2” lip so that I can have an even surface to use stacked stone on outside?
      I put the lip on the inside of the pond and made a sort of fillet out of mortar to make the transition
      from the wider footer and the narrower block for the liner.
      --Steve



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    5. #5
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      I put the lip on the inside of the pond and made a sort of fillet out of mortar to make the transition
      from the wider footer and the narrower block for the liner.
      I immediately realize that I should have done this. I could have just put foam in between the liner and block and everything would have been fine. Of course, all the vertical rebar is set
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

    6. #6
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
      You could stand pavers on edge, some are 2" thick and about 8" x 16" to match the block joints. They would be a facing of the block wall.

      https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rectangle-G...5-6-in/3018997

      Attach the blocks with mortar and use a couple tap-con screws thru each paver into the blocks. Seems like alot of work, are you sure you don't want the stacked stone to start on the top of the footing? Many of the stacked stones are about 1" to 1.5" thick, so very little of the footing would be exposed.
      Well, if you look at my construction thread, it’s not a traditional footer. There’s almost 18” showing on the low side, otherwise I’d do exactly what you’re saying.
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

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      Here is what I had in mind regarding using 8" x 16" plain concrete pavers.

      Name:  blockout for skimmer.jpg
Views: 134
Size:  533.3 KB

      Making the connection permanent to the face of the block is the difficult decision. Possibly construction adhesive is the best bet, but I would also attach using tap-con screws to provide peace of mind. Just my thoughts.

    8. #8
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
      Here is what I had in mind regarding using 8" x 16" plain concrete pavers.

      Name:  blockout for skimmer.jpg
Views: 134
Size:  533.3 KB

      Making the connection permanent to the face of the block is the difficult decision. Possibly construction adhesive is the best bet, but I would also attach using tap-con screws to provide peace of mind. Just my thoughts.
      Yes - this makes sense to me and might be the best option. I'm also looking at different stone possibilities. If I use irregular stone, it seems to be between 1" and 5" ... that might be another solution is to just sort through it and try to use the thicker stuff above the bond beam and thinner stuff on the facade of the bond beam ... hmmm
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

    9. #9
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Form it again rebars/concrete sound cheaper than pavers
      M.Nguyen


    10. #10
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by OCkoiFan View Post
      Form it again rebars/concrete sound cheaper than pavers
      I thought of that too. Get the cinder blocks done. Then build the worlds strangest forms and pour ... my thought would be to use some small horizontal pieces of rebar that just out from the mortar between the cinder blocks and tie those to a single course of rebar that runs parallel with the forms ...
      - Jonathan
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    11. #11
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Here is another thought ... if I’m only doing a single course of cinder block ... do I really need the vertical rebar coming out of the bond beam? I could just cut the rebar off with an angle grinder and move the blocks to be even with the outside edge then ...
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

    12. #12
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      Yeah I wish you would have though about that before set the blocks or even have the foundation below grade level and that is what is done to the planter
      M.Nguyen


    13. #13
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by OCkoiFan View Post
      Yeah I wish you would have though about that before set the blocks or even have the foundation below grade level and that is what is done to the planter
      I don't think I understand what you're saying ... but, the blocks are not set yet.
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

    14. #14
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by berkokid View Post
      I don't think I understand what you're saying ... but, the blocks are not set yet.
      Sorry For some reason I thought you did your first row of blocks

      Now a bit easier
      I would work the blocks so they fit nicely on the outside for the stones to go on
      Inside you the. Got liner to deal with as long you can patch more mortar to transition the sharp point of the foundation to the blocks or even with more padding like carpets
      Just bend or cut the rebar, you can even drill into the footing for stick new rebars around
      It is the stones on the outside and the weights I’m concern if you decide to keep it the original way
      M.Nguyen


    15. #15
      berkokid is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by OCkoiFan View Post
      Sorry For some reason I thought you did your first row of blocks

      Now a bit easier
      I would work the blocks so they fit nicely on the outside for the stones to go on
      Inside you the. Got liner to deal with as long you can patch more mortar to transition the sharp point of the foundation to the blocks or even with more padding like carpets
      Just bend or cut the rebar, you can even drill into the footing for stick new rebars around
      It is the stones on the outside and the weights I’m concern if you decide to keep it the original way
      I generally agree w/ this. Yup.
      - Jonathan
      - aka "Berko"

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