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    Thread: New Asagi with a Pink Spot and a Kohaku going in-and-our of consciousness

    1. #21
      HarleysnKoi is offline Junior Member
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      Hello Koirun! Thanks for your help. We are using the brand Imagitarium Ammonia remover. The water is 75į F (24į C). The room is about 72į F (22.2į C). There is an undergravel filter in each tank and a Top Fin Silent Stream approved for 75 gallons. Below is the readings for the water source, the 38gal tank and 15gal tank.


      Source water (tap water) pH - 7.6, High Range pH - 7.4, NH3/NH4 (ammonia) - 1ppm, NO2 (Nitrate) -0, NO3 (nitrate) - 0, kH - 0

      38 gal tank: pH - 7.6, High Range pH - 7.4, NH3/NH4 - 1ppm, NO2 - 5, NO3 - 40-80 (couldnít tell by the color chart), kH - 40

      15 gal tank: pH -7.6, High Range pH - 7.4, NH3/NH4 - 1ppm, NO2 - 0, NO3 - 0, kH - 80

      Those were readings from yesterday evening. Iíve since done a 1/4 water change on each tank.

      Hope this helps. I donít know if the ammonia readings are NH3 or NH4. Rich told us to get a ammonia alert detector but three pet shops didnít carry it. Iíve ordered them online and hopefully will have soon! As for media, what counts as media? Sorry! Noob question.
      Last edited by HarleysnKoi; 3 Weeks Ago at 08:54 PM.

    2. #22
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      The readings you get from your 'ammonia' test is really the sum of ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4+). Ammonia and ammonium are in an equilibrium with each other. In words one can turn to the other. NH3<>NH4+. Depending on ph and temperature.
      The higher the temperature NH4+ ------>NH3
      The higher the the ph NH4+ ------->NH3
      NH4+ is what bacteria and algae love to eat!
      It is the NH3 that is toxic! It burns tissues! Like the delicate skin and gills for your fish. NH3 should be less that .02mg/L or .02 ppm
      You would see this level as a warning on the ammonia alert card. Pic:

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      This card is very handy and I trust seachem products.

      If you don't have one at the moment, you can however use this calculator to determine what your NH3 level is by plugging your current temperature and ph:

      http://www.hbuehrer.ch/Rechner/Ammonia.html

      Adding baking soda is a two edge sword. It will raise your ph to a maximum of 8.2, with the following shift NH4+ -----> NH3, as explained earlier. ***
      But... it will also make you filter cycle faster because it is food for the bacteria in your filter. The more food available, the more bacteria will multiply. A ph of 8.2 is ideal for reproduction of bacteria. Bacteria will eat up NH4+ creating the following shift:
      NH4+ <----- NH3. A reduction of total ammonia in general.

      ***This is ok as long as you have an ammonia binder in the water.
      Seachem Prime or Safe (only ones I ever used) will also also detoxify nitrite. It is a life saver really and it is very hard to overdose. I will look up Imagitarium.
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin



    3. #23
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    4. #24
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      Is this the filter?

      Name:  Screen Shot 2018-12-28 at 10.03.46 PM.png
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      Similar to this?

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUWUMsScAI4
      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin



    5. #25
      HarleysnKoi is offline Junior Member
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      Hi Koirun, that Seachem ammonia detector is what we went searching for today but they didn’t have them. I have ordered them from Chewy. And yes, that is the exact filter.

    6. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by HarleysnKoi View Post
      ...As for media, what counts as media?
      Media in a filter are any material that has a lot of surface for bacteria to hang on. These are material such as sponges, bio-balls, filter floss, activated charcoal, filter mats, ceramics etc. I heard from the video that there is a lot of space on your filter to add more media.

    7. #27
      HarleysnKoi is offline Junior Member
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      Hey Koirun, thanks for clarifying that for me. What media would you suggest I add to these filters?

    8. #28
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      I like these ones because they are easy to cut and shape to fit filters and are easily rinsed off to clean. I'm sure you can get these locally sold per square foot. When its time to clean, gently rinse the media off in a bucket of existing pond/aquarium water. This is because if tap water is used for rinsing, the chlorine or chloramine in tap water may kill susceptible bacteria attached to the media.

      Name:  Screen Shot 2018-12-29 at 3.40.06 PM.png
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      Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time. ---- Marthe Troly-Curtin



    9. #29
      HarleysnKoi is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you, Koirun! And everyone else. You’re all so helpful and we thank you for your wonderful help!

    10. #30
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      A single treatment with the neosporin should be sufficient. It is a powerful antibiotic, with the major problem being that it cannot be reapplied to large open wounds as they heal, since that would tear open the newly formed skin.

      As for the ammonia alert cards, they help significantly with the monitoring of the level of toxic ammonia, which is a major stressor. It is unfortunate that most of the ammonia test kits read the combined ammonia/ammonium and not just the ammonia.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

    11. #31
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      I can't see if that filter has one or two filter pads included. If two, when it is time to remove one, remove only one to keep the bio active on at least half the filter.Rinsing as stated above is good, but they may get to the point of needing replacing and the more that stays the better.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
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      Richard

    12. #32
      HarleysnKoi is offline Junior Member
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      Hey Rich, thank you for that help. I will discontinue the Neosporin from now on. I will also remember to do just that when it comes time to clean and replace.

      I’m still having a great deal of time keeping that ammonia under control. I’m probably going to do a 1/4 water change of both tanks today. I also bought a pond liner. Me and the koi-Daddy are gonna build a 300 gal tank.

      Are there any easily purchasable plants we can buy to help with ammonia?

    13. #33
      RichToyBox's Avatar
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      I don't know if there are any pond places close to you, and am not sure of the types available in the pet stores. Typically, I have found plants to create more mess than they clear, but for filters that are under sized or new so underperforming, plants may be beneficial. I would look for something like an yellow flag iris or pickerel rush, as my experience with both of these was that they were very fast growing, consuming tons of nutrients, but I don't know how well they would do indoors with artificial light

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

    14. #34
      Debbie W is offline Junior Member
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      New Asagi with a Pink Spot and a Kohaku going in-and-our of consciousness

      Rich,
      I have a question.. What is the calculation for Hydrogen Peroxide to kill algae in a 55 gal tank? I am using 3% hydrogen Peroxide.


      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    15. #35
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      The uses that I am familiar with are 1 quart of 3% per 1000 gallons, which will translate closely to one ml per gallon, so 50 to 55 ml per 55 gallon tank.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

    16. #36
      Debbie W is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you so much. I am trying to keep ahead of some algee in my tank. I did do a dose yesterday of that amount. Should I repeat it until it is gone or wait it out?


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    17. #37
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      The preferred food for algae is ammonia, and with your underperforming filters, I would encourage you to allow the algae to grow rampant. Better than any plant you can buy, and as soon as the ammonia levels drop, the algae will starve back. At that time, you can see about taking care of any that has not died off.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

    18. #38
      Debbie W is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you so much, I tend to overdo everything.. it is comforting to know it is ok to leave it.


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