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    Thread: Pickerel's New Pond Build

    1. #41
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      Quote Originally Posted by Nguyen365 View Post
      Great progress. So much space and heavy duty filtration I would have make the pond way bigger.
      Thanks...I can appreciate what you are saying. I realize that bigger is better for most people and I had considered going bigger, but I have several good reasons to keep it small.
      First of all I plan to have only goldfish because I like plants in the water too.
      It's in the front yard and I don't have much space to hide filters. I'm going to partially bury the S/G filter which will filter up to 2000 gallons and I don't really want to have more than one out in the yard.
      I have lower back pain and think this size with big rocks around the edge is about all I can handle.
      My wife doesn't want a huge pond in the front yard.

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    2. #42
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zac Penn View Post
      Great work on the DIY Zakki Sieve. You certainly didn't skimp on the thickness of the acrylic That was going to be the biggest weak link in your design but it looks like you settled on 1" or more thick acrylic so you should have only minimal deflection. Wood coated in epoxy is much stiffer and acrylic so I am not surprised you didn't get much deflection in the walls. If you can keep your system as low head as possible on the suction side then I think you will be fine.

      Can you show some more detail on the flange connection for your bottom drains? It looks like the only adhesion point between the corian and pvc fitting is at the top rim of the fitting. You have a CNC so I am guessing you machined out a ring around the corian so it can nest inside the fitting, like a pipe would, so you have more surface area to glue to right? Either way, be very careful when placing the BD and connecting the liner as that joint will be the weak link in that construction.

      The sieve screen itself can handle more than 4500 GPH, but the internal framing of the Zakki Sieve is the weak link. Just like in your video, if the water gets flowing too fast it creates a lot of turbulence and some water jumps over the sidewalls of the sieve. That allows waste to bypass the screen. A single 2" inlet pipe will have a max flow rate of 4000 GPH before water starts jumping over the screen. Two 2" inlets should slow things down enough so you can get to 4500+ without bypassing the screen.
      Thanks Zac. I really appreciate the feedback. About 10 years ago I bought a big sheet of this thick acrylic at a flea market and have been saving it for that "perfect job." This was definitely it. I don't quite get what you are saying about the fit on the BD, but I don't think I did it like you are saying. I cut a recess around the hole in the corian that is a press fit down onto the PVC fitting. I lathered up the fitting real good with primer and then PVC cement and pressed it into the recess in the corian. I could feel that the PVC was melting and I hope it bonded to the corian well enough. I plan to run a thick bead of roofing sealant or construction adhesive around the fitting underneath the bottom flange of corian. I'm hoping after the whole thing is set in concrete it should be stable enough. I would appreciate any further thoughts you have about how to make it better.

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    3. #43
      Zac Penn is offline Supporting Member
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      Yeah you made the connection like what i was describing. The recess gives you more surface area for the glue to adhere to. One thing most people don't realize is that PVC cement is not all that strong when it comes to peal strength. Sheer strength it is good though. The best adhesive you can use to bond PVC is a 401 Prism super glue by Loctite. That stuff is CRAZY strong at bonding PVC and I use it all the time to jig up some hard to align parts before heat welding. Next time you want to make something like that BD then slather on the 401 and stick it together. 30 seconds later you can't get it apart with out breaking the PVC. The only downfall to 401 is that it is very viscous so it does not make a good water tight bond, so either heat welding or sealant is needed to finish off the joint. In your case, I would use liquid nails for the sealant on the underside of that joint and make it a good 1/2" bond line for more strength. Let it cure for 36 hours or so and then it will be good to go. Make sure to clean the plastic first with a good solvent.

      Based on your craftsmanship I have seen from you, I am confident that you want a nice looking product at the end of things. With that in mind I want to advise you to throw away the purple primer. It doesn't really do anything for the strength of the joint and it looks like crap. There has actually been a study done that using primer weakens the joint vs just cleaning the joint and using PVC cement alone. I never use primer and just clean the joints with a solvent then medium bodied cement for the joint. Then I clean the joint with solvent if necessary for a nice clean look. Nothing will ruin a plumbing installation like purple primer all over the place.
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    4. #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by Zac Penn View Post
      ... I want to advise you to throw away the purple primer. It doesn't really do anything for the strength of the joint and it looks like crap. There has actually been a study done that using primer weakens the joint vs just cleaning the joint and using PVC cement alone. I never use primer and just clean the joints with a solvent then medium bodied cement for the joint. Then I clean the joint with solvent if necessary for a nice clean look. Nothing will ruin a plumbing installation like purple primer all over the place.
      I've never heard anyone else say that primer weakens the joint. Do you have a source for that study? Everything I see on the Koiphen and the internet in general says primer starts the softening process so the cement works better. I like the clear stuff for the reasons you stated, but I'll be happy to learn that it's not necessary.

    5. #45
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      Quick google search found this which seems to verify Zac's claim

      https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html

    6. #46
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      Quote Originally Posted by tbullard View Post
      Quick google search found this which seems to verify Zac's claim

      https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-g...er-debate.html
      Thanks for that tbullard...just the kind of information I wanted. Maybe this info can be added to the sticky here on the construction section: Sticky: Proper Gluing Techniques for PVC

      It's always nice to learn something new.

    7. #47
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      Finally got concrete poured!

      We finally got enough good weather to pour the concrete...a big load off my mind. It wasn't hard to bend the 3/8" rebar, but it was hard to make it perfect. I guess it doesn't really matter; it should do its job. I figured the volume of concrete to be .8 cu. yd. but the width of collar varies from about 10" to 14". I made it a little wider at the waterfall thinking I might have bigger rocks there, so it was hard to be exact. Anyway, I ordered 1 yard and it was perfect...we used every bit of it right up to the top of the forms.

      40 bags of Sacrete would have cost about $200. The cost of having 1 yd. delivered was $360. For my back, it was way better to spend that extra $160 rather than mixing 40 bags by myself.

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      Last edited by pickerel; 11-23-2018 at 01:53 PM.

    8. #48
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      Keep the updates coming

    9. #49
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      Slowly but surely

      My collar turned out real well. The excavator took out the major portion of the dirt, but I was afraid for him to get too close to the sides. I want the angled sides to be undisturbed rather than having to pack loose dirt back in. Trimming up the walls is very slow, as you can see in the video. My M.O. is: chip away at the sides till the hard blocks of clay are covering my ankles. Then shovel the pile into five 5 gallon buckets, and heave-ho them up onto the collar. Then dump the buckets into the wagon and pull it out into the pasture beyond the driveway and dump it with the rest of the dirt from the pond. Then sit down for a little rest. It's slow going, but I'm glad to finally be digging. This has been the wettest Fall/Winter I can remember, so it's good to see that the walls are still extremely solid. Check out my shoes...this red clay is pretty nasty stuff.



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      Last edited by pickerel; 12-08-2018 at 06:02 PM.

    10. #50
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      That’s awesome keep on keeping on.

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    11. #51
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    12. #52
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      Looks like I am out of commission for a few days while this winter storm blows through.
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      Last edited by pickerel; 12-09-2018 at 03:19 PM.

    13. #53
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      Look good so far

    14. #54
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      Excellent!

    15. #55
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      I thought covering the hole during the storm was a great idea....not so much. I pumped it out and uncovered it yesterday and found this:

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      I pumped it out again and got to work and made some pretty good progress trimming up the sides.

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      It's supposed to rain again tomorrow, but from now on I'm not going to bother with the tarp. Live and learn I guess.
      Last edited by pickerel; 12-12-2018 at 10:26 AM.

    16. #56
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      You sure you need a liner? Lol

    17. #57
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      A mini mud pond, great idea!

    18. #58
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      Looks good!
      I did the same thing with the tarp and I always had water at the bottom too but it kept the walls drier which
      seem to help keep them stable. Just fwiw...
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    19. #59
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Looks good!
      I did the same thing with the tarp and I always had water at the bottom too but it kept the walls drier which
      seem to help keep them stable. Just fwiw...
      Thanks Steve, it's not much trouble to cover it back up so I'll think about that. The main problem is having to pump it out twice. I think most of the water is ground runoff, so if it doesn't rain much that won't be an issue.

      Look at this...the first time I've ever worn out a maddox! Man that's some hard clay. I'm also hitting a good bit of porous rock. I can bust it up, but I really have to get mean with it.

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    20. #60
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      Wow , it some serious work there young man ...

      I wish I m nearby, I can lent ya my hammer drill with the clay spade !!!

      good luck and you did very good work,

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