If it's a drop in, the drum just needs a bearing frame instead of a big bulky box. The IBC is the box.
If it's a drop in, the drum just needs a bearing frame instead of a big bulky box. The IBC is the box.
Very nice following since I want to install an RDF but the prices are a bit high right now.
Yea i know, that was accually my first design, problem was that its really annoying that it couldnt stand by itself when testing, plus the stainless steel mesh is not protected when moving it around. and the cost for making the high sides instead of the simple design is really next to nothing, plus it makes it way more sturdy.
Yea i know, same reason why i thought it was time to see if i could offer a less expensive option.
one thing i allready found out tho, is that the RDF's that is around now, seems to be way to big in sizes, comparing to whats needed.
Very cool! Following this as I may want to build one in a couple years for my new pond.
Very interesting idea to print RDF
Are you going to share files, I would attempt to print it myself?
Well after the filter have been running for a while, the bigger 3D prints that is under some sort of stress, such as the connections for inlets, are bending from the pressure of the steel fastener, and its problaly happening because we have an Abnormal hot summer this yea. Which is good, because this is the kind of things i want to discover under the tests
So to answer your question, then no, because now its not too many pieces that will be 3D Printed, and the size of the prints that is going to be printed, is very big.
So the rest of the RDF will be CNC Cut, and the parts that cant be printed, will be Cast.
As this setup is combined of this many things, im going to offer it as a DIY Assemble Kit.
And its going to be cost effective, dont worry
However... i need to have it running alot more, plus i have 2 more volentary testers, that will test some problaly bigger versions of this.
3D plastics are good for rapid prototypes and unusual toy objects but very limited with what production plastic parts can be built that won't shrink and distort. I've seen new plastic injection and blow molds reworked several times before the final product tollerances were achieved after product aging and shrinkage. I've also seen several 3D plastic demonstration pieces set out for display that had warped over time.
Last edited by BWG; 07-13-2018 at 10:19 AM.
Correct, However there is a big difference in 3D plastic materials. And it only the parts under heavy stress that are getting deformed due to heat.
there is other perspectives to look at here, im going to do the 3D parts to keep the cost down on certain objects. so by using them where they can, we can offer a cheap product compared to whats on the marked right now.
And lets say that after 3 years a 3D printed part might break, a replacement part will be very cheap, fast and easy to replace. Thats the entire idea with this project, to keep prices down
Just for information, heres what 3D printed right now.
the motor Mount.
The motor Gear.
The gear-ring on the drum.
The ribs keeping the drum together.
The locking/assembly bars on the outside of the drum.
The corners on the outer cabinet.
The inlet pipe Flange.
The Control unit casing.
The Wastetray and Pipe Flange.
Several Small spacers.
And its the 2 Pipe Flanges that are getting deformed because of the Stainless Clamps holding the rubber connectors around them.
The unit is also sitting directly in the sun all day, which is part of my test
Maybe glue a short piece of pipe into the flange and then fernco to that instead of directly to the flange.
A while ago one German company was offering kits, however this business model did not survive, they started to produce complete units.
They still sell parts http://ammerland-filter.de
OK, let me know if you need tester or parts manufacturer
Yea okay.
Well this is not my main business, so I don't have to make a living, it's pure hobby, and felt I wanted to offer kits since I'm able to produce them. Therefor my income from this won't affecte selling these or not
I've been on holiday for ad have not touched the unit the last 3 weeks, and it's just running without any problems.
Though we have so much sun and warm weather, that it's pretty clear my pump is not moving enough water through the filter, so a bigger pump is needed soon.
Hey everyone, i think its time for a little update
The unit have been running with 125 Micron Screen for a long time now, and i wanted to upgrade it to a 70 micron, but i thought, why not upgrade it to a 40 Micron screen right away, you know... just to see if i can even flow that amount of water through it.
And it happens that i can which means that right now im running this filter with a flow of 20000 Liters pr. Hour, though a single 110mm Pipe.
however my pond is still very dirty since i had to turn it off for 4 days to upgrade and replace some parts on the filter, plus remove some unessesary filter barrels. The next goal is to get a Flowfriend Pump, and up it to the max i can flow through my 3 110mm Pipes, and build a bigger RDF to support that kind of flow.
right now the unit is still running on time settings, but a Water Level control is in the works.
After a little bio growth occurs on the screen I wonder how much it will impact the flow rate?
My guess the same as any other 40 Micron screens
But thats what we will find out, as im going ot leave it running
Of course a UV light underneath the unit will solve that problem, and in time i plan on installing my UVC Light under the drum to do just that, but as part of the test, i will not right now...
Is 40 micron screen size common for EU RDFs?
70 Problaly is, but i think i read somewhere that 40 was the lowest you should go for koiponds, since any lower could make the water white, correct me if im wrong.
But i had to test how fine a screen i could go before i met its limit, and apparently 40 micron isnt is. so you would be able to use anything above that.... or use it with lower flow and use the 40
LynxDK give us some news about your project