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    Thread: Rotating Drum Filter For all.

    1. #41
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Sartorius View Post
      LynxDK give us some news about your project
      Sure thing

      there is a couple of things i need to change, and i also got alot wiser on the cost of running these thing with tap water :P

      First i will say that the unit performed flawlessly all last summer, the water was very clear, but it was at its limit with the 20000 liters pr. hour flow. And it had to run quite alot accually.
      And since i used tap water i got quite a big water bill this year... So, this year i will use a pump on the clean side to deliver the water for the filter. And i have an idea to filter the exess water from the "dung" and return the water clean to the pond. Im thing something like a sieve with at slow settling tank.

      Anyways, im in the process of building a bigger unit this time, simply to overcome the small size and the high flow rate, this will also make it easier to measure high and low water levels for when the unit have to start clean cycle.

      Allready when i put the filter at a stop last year, it was clear that the Stepper Motor i used to turn the drum was starting to rust in the bearings, and sure enough, a couple of days after i stopped it, it was stuck. So a 100% watertight geared motor is planned for this year.

      I accually left the filter outside in the pond, in water, just to see how it would preform in a ice winther, frozen stuck in the filter. And im very surprised that beside the engine was stuck, you cant see or feel that it have been outside all winther.

      so to sum it up i need:
      A Waterproof Geared Motor.
      Bigger Diameter, or double width Drum, here i would add that a bigger diameter will be more suitable for bigger Ponds, because you get more room for the waterlevel to be read. So i will not make a double width drum.
      Pump for clean side instead of tap water.
      A more precise way to measure waterlevel.

      For a pump to clean the drum, yopu can buy very cheap Garden Water Pressure Booster Pump, which just runs and keep tap water pressure all the time because it has a tank, and the pump shuts off when the pressure is getting too low. Then the system will run as its done for now with the electric valve which opens and closes when the drum turnes.

      The last thing i need to find is a suitable motor, so i will get back with more info as soon as i have any

    2. #42
      Sartorius is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you for an update.

    3. #43
      Primitive is offline Senior Member
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      What is a good drum diameter size for an RDF? I was thinking of buying a stainless steel pool filter and using the body as a drum since it's high quality thick steel. But most filters are only 18" diameter, and I think the commercial RDF have drums that look to be like 24".

      I figure 18" might be too small especially when you have to cut out opening for the waste tray.

    4. #44
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      Drum size depends on how much water you want to flow. Look at profidrum specs. Their 45/40 has a drum size of 17.7"x15.7" and has max flow of 6604 gph. Look at their other models too. Drum size increases on their bigger models. You can calculate the surface area of the screen to get a good estimate of flow for your design.

    5. #45
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      Quote Originally Posted by LynxDK View Post
      Here is a couple of quick pictures of the drum installed in the pallet tank.

      It was installed in a very very dirty tank, and i didnt do any cleaning whatsoever, which is why it looks pretty dirty after running 14 days. however the drum itself looks fine as new, this is the new 125 micron screen installed, but the 300 micron looked just as fine.

      I will clean the filter tanks one of these days so i can pictuere the water before and after the drum.

      One of the adjustments i have to do it raise the spray bar, its missing 10mm of the screen in the middle, and i dont want to install 3 spray heads, as that will just result in more water usage, so by raising them 5-10mm it should solve that problem.

      and then im designing a new connection entry for the waste tray, so that you will be able to get your hand into the waste tray, and remove string algae if needed.

      Also in the long run, a protection screen will be needed for the gear, so you cant get your fingers stuck if it starts running, i will take better pictures of the gearing later on.

      Attachment 582338
      Attachment 582339
      Attachment 582340

      Oh yea, and the spray bar just runs off the tap water, through a electric valve which is controlled by the arduino.
      However, a pump could be used, and eventually i will problaly make a "mini" sieve, with a 30 micron screen, which will sort out the waste from the waste water, and then pump the clean water back into the pond, so you reuse the water.
      this is exactly what i was thinking with my dual 330 gallon ibc tote. I wanted an rdf on top of the ibc tote and have it flow into barrel full of k1

    6. #46
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      Hey Guys.

      Its time for an Update.

      so first i would like to show you some pictures of the Drum after i removed it this day, after it has been sitting 1,5 year in the filter submerget through 2 winthers, with frost and ice, so here comes:

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    7. #47
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      So after showing some pictures, here is an update on the materials used to make this first prototype.

      Lets start with the Mesh Screen, its 40 Micron and yes its overgrown with algae and rust from the bolts, BUT its still the same feel, and no holes anywhere...

      About all the bolts and screws, please dont focus on those, because i know very well i didnt use Stainless steel, but that dosnt really effect any of the functions.

      Lets talk about the 3D prints, as you can see on the pictures, they are accually all like they where when they left the printer... a little rusty from the bolts yes, and a little dirty, but the weather and water havent had any effect on them. However at the pipe connections where they had the stainless clamp around them, they are a little deformed, but nothing that make them preform any worse.

      The Motor, well not much to say, its rusted and dosnt work, hell it was like that after the first season, its a stepper motor, and not a watertight one, simply because it had to be cheap, but this was not a good idea... and there where accually times where it was too small also, and couldt rotate the drum.

      The Drum materials, well the gears where 3D printed, and they where in perfect conditions. The Rips between the back and front of the Drum where also 3D printed, and they are as stiff as they where when i printed them. The front Circle and the back, those where made of PEHD 500, and they also look like they where brand new... and even tho that material is used for heavy machines tools, its not UV resistant... but it hasnt changed color, but okay, it havent been sitting directly in the sun.

      the Small outer ring of the drum, i made of 2mm Plexuglass... alltho its fine, when the drum was running, it was way too flimsy, and the next version need to be more stiff.... and maybe thicker.

      the small stainless bearings the drum where rolling on, i bought in china.... Big mistake, as they are Rusted Shut... so... not stainless :P thats okay tho... because for the next version im looking into maritime stuff. The center of the drum rotated of a simle 3D printed pin, and that still worked flawlessly.

      The rubber seal that stops the contaminated water from getting into the clean water, it was a cheap 2mm Rubber gasket, its has small tears in the surface, and would still hold another season, but 2 seasons i would say and it should be changed.... which is fine, because it cost absolutely nothing.

      The waste tray where also 3D printed... and i printed it in 3 pieces, and glued it with Epoxy glue.... however midway last season, the tray broke at the seam, and i had to redo it. The new version will be both for glueing but also bolts to remove any stress from the tray.

      The Outer Shell, the "box" was made of 5mm Plexiglass, with 3D printed Corners, The plexiglass are fine, also because its UV resistant... but as the 2mm Ring, its too flimsy... not stiff at all, and the box had to be lined up perfectly to be able to spin as it should. And also the 3D printed corners too ages to print, compared to how stable the structure got.

      So, now its time to fix the problems, and make a second Prototype, and i will just start to say, that the filter worked without any other problems than those mentioned above, the only thing that i hated, was that since i have a 60000 Liter Pond, with a small 20000 LPH Pump, the filter performed, but it was running ALOT... since the filter screen surface wasnt that big. I guess if i had started it up from the beginning of the pond, with totally fresh water, the problem wouldnt have been as big, but since there allready was quite alot waste in the Pond, it ran about every 2 minutes.... and since i used Tap water, that got expensive fast. So my conclusion is to make a second prototype, but this time i go bigger, because i would like to use both my Inlets, and also my Skimmer in the filter. WITH THAT SAID, im not abandoning the small version, not at all, as im building a Quarantine filter, and i have to have a small version like the 1. prototype for that, so it will be improved and used again before a final release.

      So this second version will be bigger, the first used 3 Filter Screens, and this bigger one will use 5 Filter screens.... but then i have been playing with the thought of making a double width drum, soooo... i had to test that, so this version will be 10 Filter screen instead. this dosnt mean that i wont make versions in between, because that will come... but it means that i will be able to run all my pumps and skimmers on that RDF. And the cost to go from 5-10 screens, is rediculessly small.

      So later i will show you some pictures of the development of the new drum, and size compared to the small first version.

      So i have also been thinking about the way these should be made available for others interested. And since there is alot of finished options outhere, that are not that expensive compared to the cost of building it yourself, some might still be interested.
      And since im not doing those to earn money, as this is my hobby and not my main business, i think i will sell the Milled Components, and maybe also the electronics, Motor and other small things, and then release all the parts for 3D printing for free.... so they can buy them from me, or simply print them themselves.

      Okay... so enought about that, what will i do in version 2.

      Well ive learned ALOT from the first version, so here is a list of improvements i have to do, i hope i get them all :P.

      Drum Material: Instead of 3D printing the gears for the drum, i will mill the entire gear from a thicker material, so the gears and the surface for the Clamps holding the screen are one and the same, also means less screws, might take a little longer to mill, but no Printing is nessesay and no screws to mount them, the Drum material will be 25mm PEHD 300 Black, which is less expensive AND UV Resistant

      Waste Tray: Will still be 3D Printed, but instead of only Glueing, there will be bolts too. And instead of having the pipe directly in the end of the wastetray as the first version had, the waste tray will open out in the front of the filter, and then the pipe will be connected below, this gives you the opportunity to remove algae and other waste that is sitting around the tray and is not automatically flushed out, instead of you have to remove the pipe etc. And then there will be a choise how to mount the pipe on the tray, right or left, or center, that will just be different files to print.

      RDF Casing: Alltho i know that since its not a stand alone filter, and have to be submerged into another tank, the casing of the first version wasnt stiff enough, and not only that, i was pretty annoyed that i couldnt put the filter on a flat surface, so for this second version, the casing will be a big full size square, made from 12mm PEHD 300 Black, bolted together, this way its strong, and can sit on the ground without damaging the mesh screen on the drum, which is accualy quite fragile.

      Drum Motor: The first stepper motor wasnt watertight, that simply dosnt run, because you cant stop small spray to hit the axle or and the motor. So here i have found a small Inexpensive motor with gearing, that is easy to install in a 3D printed Case, and fill it with Epoxy or Polyesther. And i really mean inexpensive guys. Also the mount for the gear is also MUCH easier, and will be much much better for the final installation.

      So this is the Update... i have ordered all the parts to make this bigger Filter, and i will show pictures when it all arrives, and i will try to take pictures of me assembling it... i will make another post with from screenshots of the new Filter. Hope This is still interesting for someone

    8. #48
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    9. #49
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      Very cool and super interested!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    10. #50
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      I’m very interested also!

    11. #51
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      I'm following and interested

    12. #52
      Sartorius is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you for update, keep us informed

    13. #53
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      Glad to hear it

      Im waiting on materials and supplies, but in these corona times its all taking time.

      So i have time to finish the drawings for the Filter, i will upload pictures once in a while

      I got the new motor, so right now im trying to make it watertight.

      Also im planning to make holes in the side of the Casing for the Filter, and then move my "Dip In" UVC Light stick right next to the filter, that way the light will keep any biofilm from attaching to the filter screen

    14. #54
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      Also added some Angles for mounting this things.... if anyone have other ideas to make this better, im all open for ideas

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    15. #55
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      Very interested once completed. 3000 gallon pond, lightly stocked.

    16. #56
      LynxDK is offline Member
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      Slowly getting there.

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    17. #57
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      Sheet Materials arrived today, so Hopefully i get the drawings finished so i can begin to cut.

      Ive started printing the parts needed, as there is many, and some big ones.

    18. #58
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      Looks fantastic!

    19. #59
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      Thanks

      50 3D Printed Ribs for the Drum

      Waiting for Spray Nozzles and water lvl sensor.

      Still working on the waste tray too.

    20. #60
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      A Little Update.

      Milling the ends of the Drum that i had planned to mill from 25mm PEHD isnt going to be possible.
      The reason for this is that there is so much tension in the material because its extruded, that when you mill away part of the cirkles it will start to bend, and its simply not going to keep specs.

      So.. they are going to be milled from 12mm PEHD, like the first smaller version, BUT, of course the black UV resistant stuff
      This is accually a good, thing, why? because its going to be way cheaper in the end, yes you have more 3D printed parts, but that also means that if something should havven to the teeth its easy to replace.
      Also the 25 milling was taking alot longer than combining the 3D print and the 12mm PEHD Milling.

      So thats a little update, pictures soon.

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