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  • Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
    Results 41 to 59 of 59

    Thread: My Blue Eco RDF upgrade

    1. #41
      kevin32 is offline Inactivated
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      hey dong. my rdf has been doing good now. pressure ttank is usually at 62 psi and no power used.

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    2. #42
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      Here is a short clip of the drum , for those who in the hurry

      https://youtu.be/T0-OjLJyZ-U

      1-spray+advance 4:30
      2_spray+advance 8:44



      https://youtu.be/T0-OjLJyZ-U
      Interesting perspective...
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

    3. #43
      ccna101 is offline Senior Member
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      hi Kevin,

      Yes, you did well there, I think the pressure tank solution also work... watch for the draw down and I think it will run like clockwork ... hope this will stop flood your lawn

      btw: start digging ..., your tosai koi will be yonsai ???

    4. #44
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      hi Kevin,

      Yes, you did well there, I think the pressure tank solution also work... watch for the draw down and I think it will run like clockwork ... hope this will stop flood your lawn

      btw: start digging ..., your tosai koi will be yonsai ???
      LOL! you mean rokusai don't you?!?lol
      Mike

      check out our website at: http://www.pond-life.net




      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

    5. #45
      kevin32 is offline Inactivated
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      hi Kevin,

      Yes, you did well there, I think the pressure tank solution also work... watch for the draw down and I think it will run like clockwork ... hope this will stop flood your lawn

      btw: start digging ..., your tosai koi will be yonsai ???
      yeah. I cranked my ff pump and got more draw down. I have the waste plate propped open. i was able to get the pond level back to full after cranking the ff up with more draw down.

      the tosai will soon be nisai i thought. 3 of my tosai sure have got big

      41 koi and water is like glass. . water test perfect

      shower setup with 40 liter air pump. if there was docs you would see foam. the rdf is doing the grunt work

      I'm totally kidding about the 3 tosai of course
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      Last edited by kevin32; 09-18-2017 at 08:48 PM.

    6. #46
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      Bump -

      After so many months-smooth sailing, my BE is come to a halt for the last 2 weeks, plan B is working with J-mat and keep the pond clear so far ( I remove the screen, turn the RDF down so all water will come as by pass mode).

      No pinion-spur gear, no sprocket/chain supply anywhere ... If anyone have a source for the motorized conversion gear combo, please let me know.

      -d-

    7. #47
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      Bump -

      After so many months-smooth sailing, my BE is come to a halt for the last 2 weeks, plan B is working with J-mat and keep the pond clear so far ( I remove the screen, turn the RDF down so all water will come as by pass mode).

      No pinion-spur gear, no sprocket/chain supply anywhere ... If anyone have a source for the motorized conversion gear combo, please let me know.

      -d-
      I will be posting my conversion later on in 2020, I need to play around with the sensors and controller that I bought to make sure they work the way I hope before ripping apart the BE in the spring.

      In the meantime, I recommend simply watching eBay for the gears that you need. For mine, I selected a gear ratio of about 5:1 for the motor speed I have (12 RPM - Single-Phase 110/115 VAC, 60 Hz, 25 W (1/30 HP) AC Gear Motor (Motor with 150:1 Gearhead))

      The driven gear was the hardest to find, so I bit the bullet and spent almost $100 on it, the drive gear and chain were easier to find – and cheaper! So – concentrate on the driven gear, then buy the drive sprocket based upon the teething that you find on the driven gear and your desired rotation speed. This is what I ended up with:

      Martin 40B10SS 3/4 Sprocket Stainless Steel 10 Teeth 3/4" keyed Bore 40B10SS
      Martin 40B54SS, #40 Sprocket, 1" bore 1/4" key 54 Tooth, Stainless Steel,
      40 SS Stainless Steel Roller Chain 5 Feet with 1 Connecting Link
      (Hint – the numbering convention is that the first number is the chain size (#40), followed by hub type (I went with type “B”), number of teeth (10 and 54), and material (SS-stainless steel).

      The total was about $160 for the gears and chain- you can get it cheaper if you are patient! I just wanted to have it all done. Depending upon what you find, you may need to get an adapter for the shafts – I found them listed as “Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Stainless”. So- get a hub size that is the right size for your motor/drum shaft or larger, since it is easier to find an adapter than re-drill the hub (unless you know a machinist!).

      I will let you know if mine all fits together as planned when I get time to play!
      Last edited by kby103; 12-26-2019 at 07:23 AM.

    8. #48
      pondfishguy is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by ccna101 View Post
      Bump -

      After so many months-smooth sailing, my BE is come to a halt for the last 2 weeks, plan B is working with J-mat and keep the pond clear so far ( I remove the screen, turn the RDF down so all water will come as by pass mode).

      No pinion-spur gear, no sprocket/chain supply anywhere ... If anyone have a source for the motorized conversion gear combo, please let me know.

      -d-
      I just completed a conversion using SS sprockets from eBay. I have all the old original parts if you have any interest, PM me.

    9. #49
      ccna101 is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      I will be posting my conversion later on in 2020, I need to play around with the sensors and controller that I bought to make sure they work the way I hope before ripping apart the BE in the spring.

      In the meantime, I recommend simply watching eBay for the gears that you need. For mine, I selected a gear ratio of about 5:1 for the motor speed I have (12 RPM - Single-Phase 110/115 VAC, 60 Hz, 25 W (1/30 HP) AC Gear Motor (Motor with 150:1 Gearhead))

      The driven gear was the hardest to find, so I bit the bullet and spent almost $100 on it, the drive gear and chain were easier to find – and cheaper! So – concentrate on the driven gear, then buy the drive sprocket based upon the teething that you find on the driven gear and your desired rotation speed. This is what I ended up with:

      Martin 40B10SS 3/4 Sprocket Stainless Steel 10 Teeth 3/4" keyed Bore 40B10SS
      Martin 40B54SS, #40 Sprocket, 1" bore 1/4" key 54 Tooth, Stainless Steel,
      40 SS Stainless Steel Roller Chain 5 Feet with 1 Connecting Link
      (Hint – the numbering convention is that the first number is the chain size (#40), followed by hub type (I went with type “B”), number of teeth (10 and 54), and material (SS-stainless steel).

      The total was about $160 for the gears and chain- you can get it cheaper if you are patient! I just wanted to have it all done. Depending upon what you find, you may need to get an adapter for the shafts – I found them listed as “Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Stainless”. So- get a hub size that is the right size for your motor/drum shaft or larger, since it is easier to find an adapter than re-drill the hub (unless you know a machinist!).

      I will let you know if mine all fits together as planned when I get time to play!
      Thanks Jim: I will short out and see what Santa had in store for me

      -d-

    10. #50
      ccna101 is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by pondfishguy View Post
      I just completed a conversion using SS sprockets from eBay. I have all the old original parts if you have any interest, PM me.
      Thanks for the offer, mate .

      I don't know whether I want to go back and deal with the trouble of swapping parts ... it works but now I am traveling a-lot so I can not afford any hiccup ... once I have my part I will fix it for good.

      -d-

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    11. #51
      icu2's Avatar
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      I used a kit that's apparently no longer available but avorancher did his using more conventionally
      found parts that might help with the conversion:

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...g-Blue-Eco-RFD
      --Steve



      Koiphen 2021 Koi Person of the Year!

    12. #52
      ccna101 is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      I will be posting my conversion later on in 2020, I need to play around with the sensors and controller that I bought to make sure they work the way I hope before ripping apart the BE in the spring.

      In the meantime, I recommend simply watching eBay for the gears that you need. For mine, I selected a gear ratio of about 5:1 for the motor speed I have (12 RPM - Single-Phase 110/115 VAC, 60 Hz, 25 W (1/30 HP) AC Gear Motor (Motor with 150:1 Gearhead))

      The driven gear was the hardest to find, so I bit the bullet and spent almost $100 on it, the drive gear and chain were easier to find – and cheaper! So – concentrate on the driven gear, then buy the drive sprocket based upon the teething that you find on the driven gear and your desired rotation speed. This is what I ended up with:

      Martin 40B10SS 3/4 Sprocket Stainless Steel 10 Teeth 3/4" keyed Bore 40B10SS
      Martin 40B54SS, #40 Sprocket, 1" bore 1/4" key 54 Tooth, Stainless Steel,
      40 SS Stainless Steel Roller Chain 5 Feet with 1 Connecting Link
      (Hint – the numbering convention is that the first number is the chain size (#40), followed by hub type (I went with type “B”), number of teeth (10 and 54), and material (SS-stainless steel).

      The total was about $160 for the gears and chain- you can get it cheaper if you are patient! I just wanted to have it all done. Depending upon what you find, you may need to get an adapter for the shafts – I found them listed as “Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Stainless”. So- get a hub size that is the right size for your motor/drum shaft or larger, since it is easier to find an adapter than re-drill the hub (unless you know a machinist!).

      I will let you know if mine all fits together as planned when I get time to play!
      Thanks for Steve of remind me avorancher and Tony thread, I been reading ...

      Hi Jim, so we do need keyed gear and some what oversize driven gear for the existing shaft ? I got it.
      There are lot of good tip also from Tony conversion. OK I will start order the stuffs .

      -d-

    13. #53
      batman is offline Senior Member
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      If you want to go with chain and sprockets here is a good source for #25 plastic sprockets 16 to 100 tooth. They could be bolted to the existing stainless steel hub. Plastic roller chain has a working load of 20 pounds. Stainless steel roller chain can also be used on plastic sprockets.
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    14. #54
      DragonFireSG is offline Senior Member
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      Are the gears stripping or the water piston jamming in your cases? Curious to know.

      I will be replacing the magnetic float on mine with a underwater rated 24v solenoid coil off a fountain valve in a couple of weeks.
      It will be operated by my Levelor which has generally fallen into disuse since I do a trickle flow through these days.

      Hope that doing so will allow me to better tune the flush cycles, which are a little long right now for my liking.

    15. #55
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      Any one did convert motor kits for blue eco drum filter. If you have extra kits don’t use to want to sell i like to buy it please thanks.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    16. #56
      webted is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      I will be posting my conversion later on in 2020, I need to play around with the sensors and controller that I bought to make sure they work the way I hope before ripping apart the BE in the spring.

      In the meantime, I recommend simply watching eBay for the gears that you need. For mine, I selected a gear ratio of about 5:1 for the motor speed I have (12 RPM - Single-Phase 110/115 VAC, 60 Hz, 25 W (1/30 HP) AC Gear Motor (Motor with 150:1 Gearhead))

      The driven gear was the hardest to find, so I bit the bullet and spent almost $100 on it, the drive gear and chain were easier to find – and cheaper! So – concentrate on the driven gear, then buy the drive sprocket based upon the teething that you find on the driven gear and your desired rotation speed. This is what I ended up with:

      Martin 40B10SS 3/4 Sprocket Stainless Steel 10 Teeth 3/4" keyed Bore 40B10SS
      Martin 40B54SS, #40 Sprocket, 1" bore 1/4" key 54 Tooth, Stainless Steel,
      40 SS Stainless Steel Roller Chain 5 Feet with 1 Connecting Link
      (Hint – the numbering convention is that the first number is the chain size (#40), followed by hub type (I went with type “B”), number of teeth (10 and 54), and material (SS-stainless steel).

      The total was about $160 for the gears and chain- you can get it cheaper if you are patient! I just wanted to have it all done. Depending upon what you find, you may need to get an adapter for the shafts – I found them listed as “Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Stainless”. So- get a hub size that is the right size for your motor/drum shaft or larger, since it is easier to find an adapter than re-drill the hub (unless you know a machinist!).

      I will let you know if mine all fits together as planned when I get time to play!
      How did these parts fit for you? Did you find a 3/8" to 3/4" sleeve adapter for the geared to drive sprocket? I'm assuming the motor you picked up was the one with the 3/8" output? This seems like the only thing I can't find right now, which seems weird.

      The other question regards the gear on the drum shaft - did you also go with a sleeve here, or did you weld them?

      Best,

      -t

    17. #57
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      Quote Originally Posted by webted View Post
      How did these parts fit for you? Did you find a 3/8" to 3/4" sleeve adapter for the geared to drive sprocket? I'm assuming the motor you picked up was the one with the 3/8" output? This seems like the only thing I can't find right now, which seems weird.

      The other question regards the gear on the drum shaft - did you also go with a sleeve here, or did you weld them?

      Best,

      -t
      Unfortunately (for lessons learned-not me!) the unit has been working very nicely for me, which significantly lowered its priority in view of other things, so I have not yet done the conversion and cannot give you any lessons learned (although I am somewhat hopeful that I have all of the items I will need when the time comes).

      The motor I got, however, has a 5/8 inch shaft (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...U3G1UUK6&psc=1), and I found a 5/8-3/4 SS adapter on eBay.

      I also obtained a sleeve for the drum shaft, (3/4-1"), which is hopefully right!

    18. #58
      webted is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      Unfortunately (for lessons learned-not me!) the unit has been working very nicely for me, which significantly lowered its priority in view of other things, so I have not yet done the conversion and cannot give you any lessons learned (although I am somewhat hopeful that I have all of the items I will need when the time comes).

      The motor I got, however, has a 5/8 inch shaft (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...U3G1UUK6&psc=1), and I found a 5/8-3/4 SS adapter on eBay.

      I also obtained a sleeve for the drum shaft, (3/4-1"), which is hopefully right!
      So, is the plan to use something like this?

      https://www.amazon.com/3mirrors-Stai.../dp/B07MM3V5R4

      Presumably it would get fit with a ~2" length of 5/8" stainless on the other side to account for the short length of the motor shaft?

      I thought the drum shaft was 20mm diameter?

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...94#post2729194

      Maybe this guy would work?

      https://www.ondrivesus.com/PCB.53.48

      I think I've got most everything lined up, it's just the dratted short motor shaft that seems to be the biggest problem.

      Thanks again!

      -t

    19. #59
      kby103's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by webted View Post
      So, is the plan to use something like this?

      https://www.amazon.com/3mirrors-Stai.../dp/B07MM3V5R4

      Presumably it would get fit with a ~2" length of 5/8" stainless on the other side to account for the short length of the motor shaft?

      I thought the drum shaft was 20mm diameter?

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showt...94#post2729194

      Maybe this guy would work?

      https://www.ondrivesus.com/PCB.53.48

      I think I've got most everything lined up, it's just the dratted short motor shaft that seems to be the biggest problem.

      Thanks again!

      -t
      Looks promising- good luck! I like the ondriveus site- If what I got doesn't work I will go that route. The converter I found is slightly too small, (0.02 inches as I recall) but I was hoping to force it on!

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