A couple of my trees.
A larch forest - approximately 20 trees.
Beech tree on a slab - bonsai'd approx 15 years.
A couple of my trees.
A larch forest - approximately 20 trees.
Beech tree on a slab - bonsai'd approx 15 years.
Last edited by skidad_2007; 09-02-2013 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Forgot to attach pics
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Very nice.
I wish I had the time and patience to try to make some, but at the moment I have two many tasks and a too long waiting to I get to it list.
Nancy
I think it goes hand in hand with koi, and like koi it's addictive!
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Just for you Wayne, my Kiyohime Maple.
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Nice....
Susie
What holds the soil together on the Beech tree on slab?
If it's true our species is alone in the universe, I would have to say the universe set its sights rather low and settled for very little. ~George Carlin~
Mark
Front Royal
Virginia
Hi Mark, just been reading your other thread on your new hobby.
To answer your question, my beech on a slab has a mound of bonsai soil which raises the tree somewhat, and to stop it falling off, its covered in moss.
The slab has drainage holes drilled into it, as you rightly said watering is important, but so is drainage - most bonsai like free draining soils.
its tempting to buy cheaper small/ young trees, but its a heck of along time to wait for development,very ature trees are expensive, so a compromlse was required for me.
alternatively as you say collect your own.
A good tree to start is a larch- deciduous, lots of growth, and extremely tolerant of misplaced scissors!
I keep only outside trees, which remain outdoors all year- maybe moved in hard winter, to slight shelter.
Wish you well,post some pics as you progress, good luck.
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Skidad. Think for the info I thought for sure you had some sort of mesh holding the soil together under that moss. You must have to water very lightly to keep the soil from washing away from the roots. And what happens in a heavy rain?
Im going with outdoor plants pretty much too. I dont have enough even light indoors even in my sunniest room. I will look for the Larch. I figure to go with younger trees just so i can work on my technique if I cant keep them alive no point in trying older. Although if i see an oppurtinity im sure i will. I will be glad to have your advice when i can get it.
What type of light do you like your trees to have?
If it's true our species is alone in the universe, I would have to say the universe set its sights rather low and settled for very little. ~George Carlin~
Mark
Front Royal
Virginia
Mark, the only mesh is placed over the drainage holes to prevent soil washing away, the moss is very good at holding it all together, as will the roots as it establishes.
As with all bonsai, we don't allow them to dry out, and don't over water - sounds simple, but ties you to the home.
A tip for soil choice - try to tie in with your life style - if you use all coarse substrate with no compost ,it will be extremely free draining and will require frequent watering.
By using a mix of compost and bonsai substrates (fired clay particles), you can regulate the frequency of watering to suit your lifestyle, but remember the health of the tree is all important - you should only be working on healthy trees, so excess water must be free to drain, but must retain enough water and nutrients to flourish.
Some of the bonsai substrates can be expensive, and there are a wide variety to choose, maybe best to join local club if you have one where you can gain lots of advice freely available from experienced bonsai lovers.
I make my mixes of soil using general purpose compost and cat litter (much more cost effective - use low dust cat litter which contains fired clay - the package will list components.)
Just a few tips to help you along, hope too many don't disagree!
Regarding light, my trees only receive natural light as they are kept outdoors, so no special lighting arrangements for me.
When I return home, will post some winter images of trees weather permitting.
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Many hobbyists, when planting on a simple flat, open surface will also cover the growing medium with what is know as "peat muck", a blend of adobe-type clay soil and peat moss. This is place directly over the growing medium. Moss can be added over it as well to finish off the look and also aid in keeping the peat muck moist. This "peat muck" is also used when planting smaller plants in "pockets" or on ledges of tall rock for a "scene" type display.
As to lighting outdoors, I've tried several areas of the backyard in an effort to maintain a couple trident maples and satsuki azalea. It depends on what climate zone you live in as to the amount of humidity in the air and direct sunlight your garden has available. I have found, where I live, in San Jose, Ca, that a East facing fence with morning to early afternoon sun has provided the best results. Western facing walls are too hot with too much direct sun in the afternoon. Northern facing walls can stay too shaded and not allow the soil to dry out a bit between waterings causing root rot. This can also depend a lot on the species/varieties of plants you choose to grow as bonsai. I would piggyback on skidad's comment about finding a local bonsai club in your area and pay them a visit. See if they fit your style, ideas and then join if so. Also, make sure the "cat litter" you purchase has not perfume additives as well.
Mike
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I like the homemade Bonsai style planter box. It seems like a good inexpensive transitional box to start trees in and possibly then possibly transfer to the more ornate styles at some point. Im guessing on that. It would be really easy for me to fashion together some of those. Is it pressure treated lumber or something else? I like the kitty litter suggestion. I had heard of that it good to have it confirmed. Im going to get into the soil aspect on my other thread here soon so i will save some questions for that. I will consider checking into clubs but im Happy with the info here. There are so many articles both on the web and these forums I will take it as it comes. I like the peatmuck idea too. I will keep it in mind for some of my more creative ideas. Thanks for the input.
Skidad tell me a little about that box if you could please. it it slatted bottom or holes drilled?
If it's true our species is alone in the universe, I would have to say the universe set its sights rather low and settled for very little. ~George Carlin~
Mark
Front Royal
Virginia
Love the forest.... I haven't seen one like that
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I've several wooden boxes in use for growing Bonsai, we call them "training" pots, and as you say it's a cheaper alternative to using bespoke bonsai pots while the trees are maturing and establishing themselves.
Also, saves the bonsai pots from damage - important if you ever decide to show your trees.
Basically, they're just shallow wooden boxes constructed to an appropriate size for the plant/tree, I've had no problems using pressure treated timber, and regularly treat the outside of boxes with preservative. Easy to drill wire holes exactly where required as opposed to pre drilled holes in conventional pots.
I find it makes no difference if the bottom is one piece or sltatted, as I drill drainage holes in both cases, but try to raise the base on small legs to allow free draining.
Plastic washing bowls can also be used if you're not happy with timber, but I find having timber containers allows for screws/eyelets when attaching wires etc for shaping/lowering branches.
The trees can be transferred to more ornate pots when required for display.
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
That sounds good and makes perfect sense. You mentioned wires and holes for wires. I have seen some pots that have a short copper wire attached to the base thru a smaller hole. I take it that's for sceuring the tree in some way. and that leads into if the tree is sucure does that make it easier to shape it with your "guide wires"? Im getting the idea that the tree might pop out of there little pots in the wind or get bumped? How to you keep the wire from digging into the base below soil? Rubbing tubing around the wire perhaps? I cant wait to build some of these box trays I have lots of scrap lumber from building my deck and arbor it will be good to put it to use!
If it's true our species is alone in the universe, I would have to say the universe set its sights rather low and settled for very little. ~George Carlin~
Mark
Front Royal
Virginia
Mark, the small wire holes you've seen are for anchoring the tree securly into a pot.
Generally, the large woody roots are removed when planting to leave as much of the fine hair like feeder roots as possible.
The secured wires are passed through the bottom of the pot, through the substrate and twisted together around the tree to secure it - its important the tree doesn't move when planted, as the very fine roots can break.
Rubber protection can be placed on wire to prevent damage to the tree.
BTW, off cut decking is good for making the boxes- look good too.
If you're not meant to eat animals, why are they made of meat?
Cool looking bonsai.