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    Thread: One shovel full at a time. Start to finnish block built pond documentary - 2013

    1. #21
      JLH's Avatar
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      I made a very quick and crude drawing of the filtration system. I will clean it up and get it in CAD eventually.

      BD line is 4" and feeds a tee that has a flush for the BD line going to wast. then the tee branch leading to the sieve will reduce to 3" and have a 3" clean out tee. the sieve will be a zakki Jr. the sieve will feed a cascade 49C with a priming pot before it. after the pump will be a MC-50 cyclone separator. the lines will be plumbed with a sieve bypass, MC-50 bypass, and flush mode for each. this system will then feed a shower with cermedia meadia.

      the skimmer line will have a waste drain out of the bottom of the savio skimmer and a line feeding another cascade 49C with a priming pump before it. the skimmer will then go to a UV plumbed with a bypass. after the UV the line will split into 3 lines. 2 lines will feed (2) 55gal SG filters. the remainder of the flow will be pumped into the shower.

      the shower will drain into a basin that has an intergraded waterfall weir (24" wide i'm thinking) the basin will also feed (4) 1.5" gravity fed TPR's that are at each corner of the pond. each TPR line will have a ball valve to balance the flow the basin fill height/weir height will be about 24" over pond level. The SG filters will also gravity feed back into the same basin.


      hope this helps
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    2. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by JLH View Post
      did the rebar for the floor last night after work. did not finish tying it all off until 10:30 last night, planning to pour the floor the next day. thunderstorms ended up in the area and ended up with water around the bottom drain and a 60% chance of rain again in the afternoon so I held off. Knocked out the bond beam tabs with no issue a couple light taps on each with a stone hammer and they came right out. luckily no broken or lose blocks. I will most likely use a LVB to fill/skim the mortar joints and seams once everything is complete and cured to smooth out the pin holes and imperfections. fingers are sore from the tie wire (buying the pre-made ties and a wire tie tool would have been a good investment) all the cuts and blisters on my hands are building character.
      question...

      is the rebar tied into the block?

      if so how high up onto the block that is set will the concrete come.

      what is the distance from the rebar to the bottom flange of the BD

      how are is the rebar from the side of the BD

      if you are tied into the block i think it would be better to tie it into the footer this would make for a better bond between the footer and the floor and help it not to shift later down the road..

      also keep in mind you should keep the rebar i think its 1" inside of the edge of the concrete richtoolbox would have the exact distance but i think its 1"

      so if the rebar is closer then that around the flange or sides of the BD i could correct that..

      also i cant see in the pictures but if it is not tied at each cross section i would tie it.. i dont know if its needed but its easy to do and worth the extra time IMHO..

      other then that it looks good
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    3. #23
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      -the rebar is just set on top of the footer for support this holds the rebar about 2.5 - 3" off the dirt. the finnish concrete will then be 4" over that (coming 4" up the first row of block.)
      - the rebar is tied at every intersection.
      - at the BD currently the rebar is only 2" under the BD lip. i planned to put another square of rebar about 2" off the floor around the BD since the rebar has a good contour to it. and is even with the floor except for a 1.5' radius around the drain.
      - my rebar only has a 1/2" clearance on the ends before it hits up against the block. is this ok or should i get a grinder down there and cut them all down. i thought since it was only in contact with concrete and it had 4" of cover over it that it would be good.
      - I have a little more than an inch clearance for the rebar to the sides of the BD.
      - the footer has the floor "keyed' into it the footer is 2-3" higher than the compacted earth and the floor will also be 4" over hanging the footer all around and 4" thick over top the footer. (i guess more like a step then a key)

      let me know if you have more questions or i didn't answer one of your questions. I can not pour until monday now so i have time to fix it.

    4. #24
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      did you get my PM
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    5. #25
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      floor is in 8" thick fiber reinforced 4000psi concrete with #1 stone mixed with 3.5" slump.
      currently just laying out the TPRs so i am ready when the 3rd corse goes in.
      heres a small photo update
      also poured a 2' x 3' pad to serve as a base for the supports for my savio skimmer
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    6. #26
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      looking good
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    7. #27
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      That looks great, moving right along!

      Cheryl

    8. #28
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      Looks terrific!

      I'm interested to see how the tpr's fed from the bottom of the waterfall basin works... Dan (Powerman) is
      doing his the same way I think, and I can't remember ever seeing them done that way before.
      --Steve



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    9. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Looks terrific!

      I'm interested to see how the tpr's fed from the bottom of the waterfall basin works... Dan (Powerman) is
      doing his the same way I think, and I can't remember ever seeing them done that way before.
      I like it, sounds like a good idea to me.

    10. #30
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      Quote Originally Posted by birdman View Post
      I like it, sounds like a good idea to me.
      Me too.

      But since you can't "control" the waterfall flow, I'd think it'd be important the tpr's had enough head height to flow
      the majority (or all) the water out of them, so closing them controls the falls.

      JLH, iirc, you have a couple of feet over pond level, which sounds like plenty to make this work... but how do
      you calculate how much you'll be to flow through the tpr's, or do you just over shoot for safety sake?
      That's what I did when I gravity fed mine, because I don't even have valves on them! But all mine are the same
      length too...
      But I love the idea.
      --Steve



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    11. #31
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      Had a productive day now 7 corses of block on the pond. rebar installed in the bond beams on every other corse. the 4 TPRs are installed and mortared in flush. I should have about 3 feet of head over pond level to gravity feed my TPRs. i will just guess at balancing them and will be able to calculate total flow by measuring the remainder going over the falls. I am sure if i am clever i could shut them off one at a time and measure the flow at the falls to get the flow rates balanced.

      1 and 1/2 row of blocks higher left to go on the pond and the block for the filter pit yet to go. then we get to start mixing the ~3 yards of portland and concrete sand and reinforcing fibers to fill all the cores.
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    12. #32
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      looking good very nice work
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    13. #33
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      I've use the waterfall basin concept for years and it works great. I call it a "catch basin", and the design is slightly different, but same principle if I understand correctly. You get to use all that water in the falls for TPRs for free. Plus, depending on how you construct it, no crashing water in the pond so to get a calm surface, no foam, better fish viewing. Really inexpensive and simple. What's not to love?

      It is a low pressure type system so I had to use 3" pipes for the returns. I use one 3" pipe per 500 GPH of pump flow just as a general rule, but never really experimented with smaller sizes.
      Last edited by Waterbug; 08-26-2013 at 02:31 AM.

    14. #34
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      8th corse is now on. vertical rebar is now cut and placed.
      the block in the filter pit is almost done the filter pit came out with exactly a 4' x 6' foot print. tight but plenty for what i am putting in it.
      tomorrow the plan is to finnish laying the block only 21 blocks to go then we will start filling the cores with grout i have a cement mixer rented for the weekend and have a concrete vibrator. i have 2 tons of concrete sand halled so far and 12 bags of portland to get me started. i will se how far that gets me by 10am then guess at what more i will need to finnish so i have time to run to the store. everything closes at noon around here on saturday. I only ended up with about 15-20 feet of wast in my rebar from the whole project out of the 1,080 feet consumed in the build. that 15 feet of a few short runs will be just enough to frame around my skimmer.
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    15. #35
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      That looks so good, you have done a fantastic job!

      Cheryl

    16. #36
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      looking good you are moving along nicely
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    17. #37
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      Are you going to use pea gravel in the grout! When I did walls commercially we used runny grout with pea gravel for block wall filler.

      steve

    18. #38
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      wish i did use some pea gravel as a filler for the cost savings. it took 24 bags of portland and 8,500 lbs of sand to fill the cores. at-least its done took 12 hours to mix and pour it all i will add pictures later.

    19. #39
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      cant wait to see the pictures
      Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead. - Benjamin Franklin.

      you cant fix stupid no matter how hard you try.

    20. #40
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      just the one corner of the filter pit left to grout. then i will set the skimmer and mortar it in, mortar the corners of the pond to round them. add a 4" cap block all the way around the pond, and finnish by building the waterfall wall up. once that is done hopefully i will be all done with the concrete portion of the project.
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