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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
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    Thread: Proper Gluing Techniques for PVC

    1. #21
      Ronfire is offline Member
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      If you do have a leak in a connection the best way is to replace the connection. Before that you could try connecting a shop vac to the pipe and let it suck in some primer and then the glue. You might get lucky and have a fix, if it doesn't work you can always replace the fittings or valve.

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    2. #22
      NickK-UK is offline Member
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      After pond build I think I'm pro-amateur in the art of PVC solvent welding - perhaps I can add a little specifics from a euro/UK perspective.

      Pipesize - Metric vs Imperial.
      Here in the UK we get both so be weary mixing, a rule of thumb here:
      * Imperial inches keep the inner diameter ("bore") the same, and the outer diameter varies with pipe pressure class. Pressure classes are A,B,C etc
      * Metric (mm) keep the outer diameter the same and the inner bore varies with pressure class. Pressure classes are simply PN10, PN16 etc

      Pipe diameter and fittings therefore become a bit of a minefield. With a 4" fitting you may need an adaptor for a 110mm pipe.

      I standardised on PVC-U 110mm PN16 (class C in imperial terms) for the main filter pipes and fittings. The benefit is that any 110mm fitting will work and any 110mm pipe would work should I find a problem. I stuck to 32mm air pipe for the same reasons - although my bottom drain has a 1" air connection but there are 1" to 32mm connectors.

      I bought my pipework and fittings part from a agriculture specialist - cheaper and delivered in 5 meter lengths. The smaller fittings I bought from a plastic pipework specialist - contact me for details here in the UK (I'm not connected to or sponsored by them - just great service).

      Bends
      Here in the UK we tend to have "elbow" which is a hard 90 degree bend, "swept" which is a larger bend radius and then the larger still "long sweep" usually used for waste/drainage water. Be mindful that drainage bends often are not true 90degree bends but about 87degrees so they provided a continuous gravity slope to work with the 1:40 slope gravity drainage.
      You want swept bends or 45 degree bends to maintain your flow rate and minimising the restriction caused by the change in direction.

      My technique - it's a little OCD but I didn't have a problem
      1. Preparation: For 110mm (4") I had 30 meters of it and 13 swept bends, so it was worth the investment of a 4" chamfer tool. This tool is a drill bit that deburrs and bevels the pipe after cutting. Any smaller pipes it's easy todo with some 40 grit sandpaper then finish off with some 240 grit. Cutting I used a simple hand mitre saw in a plastic mitre box - fast and accurate before chamfering. Pay attention to the inside of the pipe edge - that should be sanded both to stop it cutting your hands but also to smooth water flow.
      2. Dry fit - and use a marker to mark the angles and point of full insertion. Although gluing in place is preferable, I've had some hard access gluing where I've had to mark the dry fit and then glue away from the fit.
      3. I have a rag that is dry and is used to clean before the dry fit. A rag that's used for the primer and a rag that's used to tidy up the any solvent glue squeezed out.
      4. I use a solvent cleaner/primer (Griffon Cleaner) that strips away the surface layer and any grease/oils from handling. I use a rag to apply and give it a good rub around. DONT ATTEMPT TO DRY FIT AFTER APPLYING THIS (it won't separate!). Also use ventilation.This is applied to both the inside socket of the fitting and the pipe area being inserted into the fitting.
      5. Gluing is relatively easy - I use TangIt PVC glue for the reason it gives a 15-30 second working time unlike the faster Griffon PVC glue. That makes it easier to work with larger pipes such as 110mm/4". Apply to the socket of the fitting first, then the pipe. I use the twist insert method and this is where the markings help ensure you have the right angle and it's fully inserted.
      6. Check inside the pipe and clear any glue that may have caused a blockage (I didn't have this except in a 1" elbow bend). Then use a rag to smooth the squeezed out glue around the outside of joint. As the glue cures it will suck in a little but wipe gives it a clean appearance and ensures there's no missed spots.
      7. Hold for a couple of minutes, after which the joint will hold but is not fully cured and not to full strength. After 24hours the joint is at full strength.

      Then once the pipework is done a good pressure test is worth doing - especially on bottom drains etc embedded in concrete. I used a normal pressure testing kit but careful as the bungs can shoot out like bullets which can damage centre tubes for bottom drains and people..

      As part of the pond commissioning filled the pipe and left it for several weeks before using a drill pump to suck the now very solvent/stinky water out of the pipe. Give it a rinse and you're ready to go.

      Also it's possible to recover either the pipe or the fitting as you basically destroy one to recover the other. I've had to remove a broken coupling fitting using a chisel riding along the pipe to break and chip off the old fitting. It works well and then simply sand off the old solvent, then clean and reglue the new fitting. The alternative for pipework is to collapse the pipe in on itself by twisting it using grips (I did this on 1" pipe but not larger).

      Also a good 4" ball valve with dual couplings works wonders. A 4" ball valve weighs alot and being able to seperate the couplings to glue them helps both you and stops the risk of glue in the valve itself. You can (if the valve is a good one) buy the solvent weld coupling fittings on each side separately so you only have to replace a small piece of the valve.

      Although PVU-C class C and PN16 pipes will withstand higher pressure than your water or air would apply to them, they are susceptible to UV (even with the UV inhibitor in the U version of PVC) and to frost/cold weather. So both a coat of exterior paint or insulation helps prevent the plastic from degrading.

      I use flex boots for filter fittings - this allows you to get an operational test going and if that's all good weld in at a later stage. Just remember to re-tighten the boots after a week and then after a month then 6 months as they age.

      If you want to err on caution - most people don't have issues with thermal expansion but for runs over 10 meters plan for 1cm/10m of expansion during summer/winter cycles using gravel in the trench.

      Given the constant pressure and expansion - push fit connections (although used in modern water supplies) aren't recommended for underground pond pipework.

      I think mind dump covers what I know for PVCU based on the build.

    3. #23
      Noahsnana's Avatar
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      Beginning to build ? This primer (pun intended) is for you
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    4. #24
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      Try repairing a weeping PVC glued joint.



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    5. #25
      coolwon is offline Senior Member
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      A PVC heat weld gun will do it.



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