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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
    Results 21 to 34 of 34

    Thread: DIY Gravity feed Sieve filter

    1. #21
      mbenjami's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by prestont View Post
      I could see how this sieve could overflow/fill up if a piece of any small trash (string algae, pine needle) were to catch in the float valve. No amount of buoyant pressure will stop the flow. And there still has to be the right level of water in order for the weir to work. If pond level is below the weir, no go. If pond level is high enough, the valve has to be perfectly tuned to the pump, and tuning like that frequently goes sour. This is a sexy, simple design, but it doesn't look like it would work at pond level, and if it was below pond level it would work until it got a small piece of trash in it, then it would overflow.
      Only way to overflow the whole unit is if the unit is below waterlevel and you shut down the pump. If on correct waterlevel normally the float valve will rise and close the inlet. If something is blocking the exit of the inlet the whole unit will not be overflow but the sieve screen yes. But i think its unlikely that something will block, but who knows If i have misunderstood you somehow then please explain so i can finetune the drawings. Write down some tips people .

      Made 3 pics here what could happen (which i still is unlikely). if you shut down the pump, the inlet will allow the waterflow in until the waterlevel in the clean basin is so high that the float valve closes it. IF something will block between the float valve and the inlet this is what happens. 1. Flooding and blocking between the valve and inlet, 2. Normal run , 3. Blocking between inlet and valve.

      Any build up with string algea around the rod of the float valve (if thats a problem) is removed during your usual cleaning procedures when you look after the filter and opening the waste outlet.
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      Last edited by mbenjami; 10-06-2010 at 06:58 AM.

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    2. #22
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      ok has anyone made one of these yet if so how did the design work out for you ?
      also what was used for the float and plug for intake?

    3. #23
      mudcatslim is offline Senior Member
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      I do not think it would overflow if it were above pond level a little. The Cestus is set above pond water level by about an inch. I do see some leak by with the valve stem though. I also see the stem getting cocked sideways unless a sleeve of some kind is incorporated. Just like a valve stem in a motors head. Maybe a bronze sleeve on steel valve stem. If the chamber was sealed off from the clean water side you could come up with some sort of floating weir spill over. Maybe make the chamber large enough to slow down the flow relative to the bottom drain pipe. The thing is how to make it so it would not drag or jam? Maybe rip off the concept of the bellows from the Cestus. Or look at some of the other designs. I think it would be neat to make a separate chamber/ outlet for each incoming line. That way they would all self regulate. Maybe not as practical as two lines tied together but, I bet you would be the only kid on the block with that toy. Cool drawing and concept though. You did very well with the reflections. It looks as good as a real product. If someone figures out the super duper can do it all sieve they should hire you for a render.

    4. #24
      mbenjami's Avatar
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      Sorry i havent had chance to make it yet. been caught up in so many other projects lately. But the design will work as it is. Just adjust the the sieve a littlebit above pond level. Should be no problem. The float you can use a correct sized plastic ball and attatch it to the steel rod. The plug can be made of a piece of rubber.

      Another particle filtration i been working on for my brother can be seen here https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...70#post1995670

    5. #25
      birdseye is offline Junior Member
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      How about using the plastic ball normally found in a toilet cistern? It comes with a threaded hole so it is ideal for attachment of a steel or aluminium rod. Determine the thread size in the ball (inch-threads, I believe) so a matching screw can be made at one end of the rod. As for the plug, the rubber cup from a standard plunger may do too. Just thinking.

    6. #26
      gOOse is offline Senior Member
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      Cool stuff. I always like reading peoples thoughts about this stuff. Just a couple of things from me. What I have found with the "capping off" method (your valve that stops flow) is something that you dont think about until you throw water on to it and watch it work. One of the things you will see if you build this is: When you cap the flow it stops the all the movement in the inlet pipe. All of the waters inertia has come to a stop. Now when it opens back up the water has to ramp up to speed. It does not flow as dynamically with the valve movement as you would think. This starts an oscillation in that by the time the flow is up to speed the valve has over compensated and is already in the process of shutting the flow down. This is further compounded by the lack of "Range" of this unit. It has a very small window of operation. Lately Patch has been talking about how important the "range" is. This really helps with lots of things. If your BD gets a large mass of string algae flow is reduced, if your unit only allows an extra inch or so of pull down it will not be able to add the pull that is needed to clear the clog. Then you have water changes. This is huge. How many people turn off their whole system to do them? Not only that....you have to WAIT until its full again before you can turn stuff back on. This takes hours of attendance. This is why Patch (some one who has hands on and watched the water for (guessing) countless hours.) has stated that Range is VERY important. I have been saying lots of stuff for years but I think it falls mostly on deaf ears. In regard to the range of this unit; it is very limited by the top of your **** and the top of the unit. This is the only "range" this unit has. The ball/float could be moving 24" and it would add nothing to flow rate because its only allowed to add what that **** top lets it.


      Other things:

      The post through the inlet will quickly jam with debris.

      The shape of the cap (although it looks very "flowie") will only make it harder for the float pressure to seal it.

      The clean water area is to shallow and will suck bubbles even at the top of its limited range, let alone when it pulls down and ramps up flow/ferocity.

      That being said I still like reading peoples ideas and the links to plastic wedge wire are very cool. Might have to do some testing with that stuff, seems cool. Of course this comes AFTER I figure out how to make SS screen run without clogging.

      gOOse.

      Edit: I wanted to come back to this thread because: I have now managed to get the capping off mode to work.
      Last edited by gOOse; 03-19-2011 at 01:39 PM.

    7. #27
      Bido is offline Member
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      Have any one DYI this unit? I don't know about plastic welding any one have a hint? also I hear the problem is the wedge-wire. i ran in to website
      http://waterartsconsulting.com/filters_sieve_pre-filter $348.98 is it the right one? any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

    8. #28
      Mirage is offline Junior Member
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      Just wondering what the difference in height between water in and water out would be. Thinking of sitting one of these ontop of my sump that filters my fish tanks. Just not sure if I have the head room for it.

    9. #29
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      Hum I wanna make one with block and mortar, and ideas? It gotta flow 8000GPH
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    10. #30
      KoiKid55 is offline Senior Member
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      is that your own cad software?
      Well I messed that one up
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    11. #31
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      Quote Originally Posted by mbenjami View Post
      Made a drawing of a gravity feed Sieve filteration unit if someone here wanna try making one in fiberglass or plastic welding. I draw it with exact measurements for those who wanna try.
      Can I use the floating ball and rod using in the toilet water tank instead of your vale raiser ? Also where can I find the rubber valve ? The clean water level should set lower than the wire mesh that how you set up your valve and raiser, right ? Is this only good for the gravity feeding ? If it is only good for gravity feeding, then you needs to set the unit below the pond water lever, right? Thank you

    12. #32
      DaKid Koi's Avatar
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      Very old thread ,maybe someone w/ charm in and give U some answers or at lease tell u how they made out w/ it.
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    13. #33
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    14. #34
      Asagibottom is offline Senior Member
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      I know it's an old thread- I found the pictures on bing's search as I was looking for sieve plans. I'm going to make one very similar to this except above pond level and water in by pump. I expect it to work well as gravity fed-- it will be fed by a 1000 gph pump. I don't know what that is in Liters. Already have the micron mesh screen. Using 50 microns for algae. We'll see!

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