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  • Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
    Results 41 to 52 of 52

    Thread: Bakki shower questions

    1. #41
      danm is offline Master Bug Photographer
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      Quote Originally Posted by sweetpea
      Thanks nicco, you even beat danm!!

      ****!!!

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    2. #42
      nee is offline Senior Member
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      janet
      there is a lot of research on Bakki shower and TT now and then on several internet site, as i can remember. But basically is:
      The flow rate of your pond dictates the size of the Bakki shower, the faster your flow rate, the bigger the shower. However, flow rate has little to do with the efficiency of de-nitrate process. it's the heigh of the shower ( measuring by the material inside) , everything under 12" do not work. i have one 16" works as well as one 18". then your question on the amount of material have answered by your pond flow rate. How do you determine
      you BS size? drill several hole 1/4" separate each other 1" on your tray. let water flows over, if you see about 1/2" water alway on your tray, then it's OK. if overflow, then need a bigger tray. or at least drill closer holes. If it's run out water, drill smaller holes or drill farther.
      The most inportant part of BS is aeration, nitrate convert to NO2 then need to release into the air, otherwise it remix with water. therefor BS is more efficient than TT.
      I built several BS with under $20 each: go to walmart, buy some storage trays with square holes on the side, they are 8"x10" and some double size. Drill 1/4 holes 1" a part fill with lava rock, the first tray (distributor tray no lava rock, the last tray buy a bigger no hole container to keep the water in case water slit out on upper tray. make and outlet to the pond. stack 3,4 tray of your like. no serious handy required.
      water will be clear in about 3, 4 weeks sometime slower.
      Only one thing i observe is: water very clear in the morning and then start darken in the evening. I do not know why?

    3. #43
      Roger Thompson is offline Member
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      Smile Elaborate on crates, please.

      Quote Originally Posted by nicco
      Half my tower filled with bio balls fed clean water using the filter shown.

      Chose open sides for no particular reason, just like being able to peak inside things to see how it's working.
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Nicco, I have just been looking your shower towers. Con you tell us more about the crates, please? Size? Brand? Cost? Source? Thanks, Nicco.

      Roger Thompson
      Eastern Iowa
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    4. #44
      WinginSue's Avatar
      WinginSue is offline Proud Propeller Head
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      Roger, I don't know if they are exactly the same but Koiboy has the open sided ones as well as closed sided.

      http://www.koipondfiltration.com/trickle%20tower.htm
      Suzette
      http://sues_oasis.home.comcast.net

      Member of the Blabbermouth Club



    5. #45
      nicco is offline Super Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Roger Thompson
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Nicco, I have just been looking your shower towers. Con you tell us more about the crates, please? Size? Brand? Cost? Source? Thanks, Nicco.

      Roger Thompson
      Eastern Iowa
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Someone asked for the same info on my other thread.

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...&page=12&pp=10

      Here's what my reply was...
      The TT baskets are listed as 24 x 16 x 12 but are actually about 1/4 inch smaller than that. Those are external dimensions, take off about another inch or so for internal dimensions. Only one colour.

      You can get them with closed sides and bottoms and make your own holes. The also come with open sides and closed bottoms, which isn't much use to us unless you somehow put them on their sides.

      They cost $14.30 each, but you have to buy them in sets of 3. Shipping for me was reasonable ($16.63 for 6 baskets) for San Diego, California.

      Various other dimensions are available and there is another make that offers other size options.

      The ones in the photo can be found at ....
      http://www.chdist.com/ecommerce/eCo...634&parent_id=0

      The alternative ones that I considered (more colour and size options) can be found at ....
      http://www.chdist.com/ecommerce/eCo...parent_id=29112


      There is currently 1.5 cu ft of Bio Balls in each basket. This is done to leave a gap between each layer or balls.

      I am currently experimenting with my micro screen modification to the William Lim Pressurized prefilter to clean the water prior to entry into the TT. I have successfully used the prefilter in it's standard 250 micron state prior to this and may go back depending on how this experiment fairs long term.

      The flow rate is currently averaging 50 gpm. 60 when the prefilters are clean and 40 when they are very dirty.

      I have the option to double the flow rate but have not done so yet. A little at a time for now.

    6. #46
      auntiesue is offline Koiphen Koi Health Advisor
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      I have these in my new system also. See this thread for photos and some details. Love them!!! Will be installing a smaller tower on my smaller pond this summer thanks to the generosity of KoiBoy !!

      https://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6367
      UMKC 2013 Koi Show & Product Expo
      August 10th & 11th, 2013
      Minneapolis, MN
      uppermidwestkoiclub.org
      Sue

    7. #47
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Nicco, thanks for posts the sources of those crates. A great deal with that shipping cost.

      I have been using similar setups since I started in the hobby last year with great results. Other methods can work also, like file crates, hardware cloth in cylinders, so on. Folding crates are an option b/c they are cheap to ship. You can get these in some places, walmart has a knockoff of these for $2.99 each I think:



      Koiboy also offers some. I don't the brand he offers, but many grocery stores, produce stands and such use these. They are very cheap, but useually sold by the pallet. Several manufactors, like http://www.rehrigpacific.com/supply.html

      Here is what I am using in a new project, I wanted a shorter crate than what Koiboy sells or the walmarts ones. They cost more to ship than to buy, but these come out to around $3 after shipping included:
      Last edited by Ryan S.; 02-02-2008 at 09:27 PM.

    8. #48
      nicco is offline Super Member
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      Nice looking crate.

      I have a stack of those donut trays too. They were used in my original shower. The holes were a little on the large side and needed blocking to prevent the smaller bioballs from falling out.

      I wanted something with a larger foot print hence the shift to the crates.

    9. #49
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      Ah... thats funny, I'm going the opposite way to smaller crates, I wanted to have the option on use Lava rock if I wanted. It provided better results in 03' than Bioballs and K1 did in 04'. If I did that I wanted to be able to handle them easily. 2 stacks just fit over rubbermaid stock tanks perfectly for a sump. Went back and read that tread, missed it first time, everything looks good.

    10. #50
      nicco is offline Super Member
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      When you say lava rock worked better what do you mean. Time to cycle or performance when mature, etc. Any difference between bio balls and K1 etc.

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    11. #51
      Ryan S.'s Avatar
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      I ran 9cuft of lava rock in 03', 4.5 cuft of bio balls and 4.5 cuft of K1 in 04'. It depends on how you define a cycle I guess as there appears to be much debate about this. In both cases (roughly as the K1/bioballs were 1 day behind if I remember correctly), media was new and pond was filled with tap water with chlorimines. Bound with Chlor-Am-X entire time. Pond tested at 2ppm ammonia on fill both times. Fish where added and started feeding from day 1. Peak reading was day 5, 3.5ppm ammonia. No traces after day 7 (my test kit only went down to .2ppm I think). I think the K1/BB one went out to day 8 and had a slightly lighter fish load. The K1/BB one had a Vortexs in front and 180micron microstrainer (also a K1 moving bed) that much more effect than the previous years setup of a square settlement and reticulated foam as only mech filtration. Obviously parameters where in line and effective with both medias. Koi clay was only other treatment used, dose stronger on K1/BB since they have no trace minerals to begin with, dosed poured over media instead of in pond.

      So function from a testing parameters is roughtly the same with both, but for whatever reason the LR version clears green water and the other does not. Water clarity followed the LR one, clear by day 7. Did this twice as a KH/PH crash set me back in 03" again. KH is used more by the LR version than the K1/BB version, typical powerfull filters use KH, I can keep KH up with water changes now, I had to watch it with LR and use Baking Soda if needed, I always keep 120+. My ponds are in full sun and I feed more than most, both turn green within 3 days anytime you turn a TT off. Interestingly enough my 220gal goldfish pond (with a 1cuft LR TT) had similar resutls on the LR to K1 switch. LR version cycled cleared pond in 12 days (shorter TT no koi clay possible reasons?), with K1 eventually cleared after about 3 months with K1. I heard from another ponder that switched from LR to BB that good results, but lower ORP and Green water. This was before I started the conversions, so I planed ahead and bought a 55watt Laguna UV. I got my 4th or 5th (can't remember) replacement version this week, so that no involved. Not sure about ORP, or if its cause or effect (I need to get one myself). Was the green water not present b/c of the high ORP, or was the ORP high b/c of the lack of green water algae.

      Sorry for the long post, wanted it complete. This is just my observation of my pond, my water.

      Ryan

    12. #52
      nicco is offline Super Member
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      ORP probes drive me nuts. I ran a Vital Sine meter and probe and was getting readings in the mid 300's. The probe matched calibration at 220 and 440mv pretty well.

      Then I decided to try out a different more advanced meter. That one read 120 mv after correct calibration.

      The probes of course are interchangable so I purchased a lab grade probe to compare with the two that I already had.

      All three probes using the same meter read the calibration fluids very quickly and are within 10 mv. In the pond they read 120, 250 and 350. If the lab grade probe is left in over night it drops to 80mv.

      Most of the folks here seem to use the Vital Sine or Pin Point meters and probes so they would be getting the 350mv figure.

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