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johnhubbs
12-16-2015, 10:55 AM
I have attached at document I created detailing my Bakki Shower build.
I have used ideals from others and stated so in document. If someone
feels I am using their intellectual property, please notify me and I will change
as needed.
Admins, if you feel this post is not appropriate, please notify me and I will make
changes or remove as you see fit.
Regards, John...

MCAsan
12-16-2015, 03:59 PM
You can use the half high trays to build a water distribution box and save a couple of bucks. Looks like the stacks many of us built around 10 years ago from those crates. My gray stack lasted many years in the sun. Eventually I replaced it with a stainless steel stack.

Cheryl
12-16-2015, 05:26 PM
Nice document, thanks for sharing!

Cheryl

Jojoartie
12-16-2015, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the step by step instructions! Makes it easy peasy for us.

DangerDave
12-17-2015, 07:02 AM
What is the min required micron screen for the water that feeds into a bakki shower?

johnhubbs
12-17-2015, 08:45 AM
What is the min required micron screen for the water that feeds into a bakki shower?

DangerDave,
I don't know. I have the standard 300 micron screen in my Cetus Sieves feeding showers. Output from sieves feeds suction side of pumps and water flows through 3 bead filters in parallel before hitting bakki showers.
Water is pretty clean before it hits bakki showers...

johnhubbs
12-17-2015, 08:47 AM
You can use the half high trays to build a water distribution box and save a couple of bucks. Looks like the stacks many of us built around 10 years ago from those crates. My gray stack lasted many years in the sun. Eventually I replaced it with a stainless steel stack.

MCAsan,
I looked at ordering two of the shallow trays for distribution box, but received a quantity discount when ordering deeper trays, so price was the same (had to order 3 or more for price break). I like symetry too. LOL

Paultergeist
12-17-2015, 11:48 AM
That was very-nicely detailed and put together, John. Thank you for sharing it with others.

icu2
12-17-2015, 11:28 PM
Great post John, thanks!
I'm going to move your thread to the DIY forum as it is for "start to finish" type DIY projects and will hopefully be able to
be found in the future more easily.

Malugul
12-25-2015, 01:16 AM
How did u calculate how many holes to drill or the size and spacing of the holes. Thx

catfish whiskers
12-25-2015, 02:32 AM
I've come up with a formula that works good ,after trial and error, and after throwing away a lot of PVC.
I drill (40) 1/4" holes for every 1000 GPH. To figure spacing, I just divide the number of holes needed into the total length of pipe in the spray bar.
I like to make multiple rows rather than one single row down the center, insures better coverage.
542093

A continuous loop will give even pressure throughout the entire spray bar
542094

Better than one with dead ends
542095

abuchi123
12-25-2015, 10:18 AM
Great tinkers came to the same conclusion. :D:

I wasn't building a spray bar but I needed a manifold design that will distribute water evenly. I also went with a continuous loop design in the end.

coondog
12-25-2015, 12:18 PM
That loop is also a must for an air manifold too....

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

jaycee
06-05-2023, 11:06 AM
Thanks, I followed the guide however made a poor mistake.

I assumed the air intakes were 1" holes. And drilled them in the same spots as yours. It's slightly too big and it's not able to seal because of the raised plastic edges not allowing the fittings to squueze in there.

Your fittings for the air intakes are clearly 3/4 inch, which wasn't mentioned explicitly.. and fit nicely tucked into the slots.. my 1" does not :P My stak paks were pricy, and leak slightly because of this.

Grumpy
06-05-2023, 11:10 PM
This is a very old thread, and I have not built one of these, but perhaps you can glue in a pipe plug from the inside and move the hole up or down enough to drill new access points?

616800