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kntry
02-08-2005, 10:18 PM
This thread will be used as a tool for the plant chat. Please post your request topics on the Due to Popular Demand Thread. Thanks for your cooperation.

Kathy W
02-09-2005, 09:49 AM
Sandy I saved these pictures from The Plant Place, I also have all the written instructions if you want them posted let me know.


pic one is a tuber
pic two is a runner
pic three is a tuber and runner together
pic four is a growing tip

Kathy W
02-09-2005, 09:56 AM
pic one is after you dump your lotus pot and starting to untangle the mess
pic two is an untangled runner/tuber
pic three is cutting one of the runner/tubers with a very sharp knife

Kathy W
02-09-2005, 10:05 AM
pic one depression in the dirt
pic two placing the tuber in the pot
pic three covering the tuber with dirt
pic four adding sand
pic five adding water

kntry
02-18-2005, 10:35 PM
You know your hardy lily is ready to divide when the roots are growing out of the pot. Other signs are that the plant is root bound and is not blooming well, or the pot is beginning to split. Some of the larger varieties will split a plastic pot.

The rough, knotted root is called a rhizome. Remove the plant from its pot, rinse the root with water from the garden hose. You will see along the rhizome "crowns" where groups of new lily pads emerge. Use a sharp knife or shovel to slice between the crowns. Each section will be a new plant.

When you repot a hardy lily, use the largest diameter pot you can get. It does not need to be deep because they have a shallow root system. Use a large container so you won't have to divide the lilys more than every couple of years. Remember, you have to take the pot out of the pond so don't go too large. New dish pans work great and they're cheap.

When repotting a hardy lily, always put the cut edge of the rhizome against the side of the pot with the growing tip pointing towards the center. This will give you the longest growing time before it reachs the other side of the pot.

Most people use heavy clay or topsoil, but these cause the water to become cloudy. Hardy lilies will grow in sand or my favorite, clay cat litter (no additives or smell goods) Remember to put a couple of rocks or gravel over the top of the pot so your koi won't dig up the plant.

Don't divide your hardy lilies more than once every 2-3 years unless they are root bound or growing over the edge. The less you divide them, the more they'll bloom.

Most of lilies need at least six hours of direct sun a day to bloom well. The more the better!

Kathy W
02-18-2005, 10:51 PM
Hardy water lily pics

Kathy W
02-18-2005, 10:52 PM
more

kntry
02-18-2005, 10:53 PM
Vivip lilies reproduce by growing new baby plants on old leaves, where the leaf joins the stem. You will notice a little "nub" at the juncture. The stem will get mushy and the leaf will gradually turn yellow. DO NOT REMOVE THE STEM FROM THE PLANT. The new baby is getting nutrition from the plant. Eventually, you will notice tiny baby leaves .

Once leaves have formed, baby vivips can be planted or left to float. Eventually, usually when the water gets colder, the developing tuber will cause the plant to sink to the bottom and become established. You can also put baby plants in a ziplock full of water and let it float in the pond. The babies will continue to grow until you can plant them.

kntry
02-18-2005, 10:56 PM
Tropical waterlilies grow vertically, adding pads and buds from a central crown. Unlike hardy water lilies where you put the cut end of the rhizome against the side of the pot and angle the growing tip towards the center, Tropical lilies should be planted in the center of the pot. Sometimes a hard, roundish "knot" develops under the crown.

In the fall and/or spring, many tropicals grow out of the soil. As long as they are still growing, look healthy and continue to bloom, don't divide them. When the water temp. drops and the days get shorter, the plants will all but disappear. Youll see mushy yellow leaves. Remove the leaves and repot them.

kntry
02-18-2005, 11:20 PM
It is essential, that the soil of the marsh garden contantly be kept moist and swampy. The site of the bog garden must be low, where the surface drainage will naturally collect. If the soil is clay, a mere trickle of water will keep the ground moist enough. If the soil is well drained, you may need to put a piece of liner in the hole with some small holes for drainage.

Constructing the Bog Garden

Dig out about two feet of soil and add clay for a base. Put about 5" of large gravel, and then a layer of coarse soil. Fill almost level with the surrounding ground, using half loam and half leaf-mould or peat. Unless a natural flow of water is available, you need to provide a trickle of water, just enough to keep the bog swampy. When it's really hot and dry, you can turn the hose and let the bog run over for a while. Bog plants should never suffer from drought, they should be kept moist but not stagnant. This is why you need the small holes in the liner for drainage. The bog should never be more than two feet deep.

You can use almost any moisture-loving plant. Be careful not to crowd your plants Plant them in uneven numbered groups like 3, 5, 7, etc. of the same kind of plants. Leave a little room and plant a different group of plants.

Here are some good bog plants:
Astilbe, Iris, Spiraea,Vinca major & minor, Sweet Flag, dward bamboo,

Marsh Marigold, Pampas-grass,Lady's Slipper, Day Lily, Creeping jenny, Purple Loosestrife, Monkey Flower, Zebra Rush, Phlox, Primrose, Money-wort, Golden Rod, Periwinkle, Chamelon Plant, Cat Tails.

There are hundreds more water loving plants. Just look along ditches, streams, lakes and rivers!