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  • Results 1 to 11 of 11

    Thread: I have a couple UV questions

    1. #1
      Terrilp is offline Senior Member
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      I have a couple UV questions

      I know my uv has a maximum of 1300 gph, but not sure I've seen if there is a minimum? I'm struggling with Green water, and want to slow down the flow, but not sure how slow I can go? Also, I am just curious, As the Algae flows thru the UV does it kill the algae instantly, or does this process take time? Mostly just curious on this since I have quilt batting after the UV and it is still green, no brown. So I'm assuming it's not an instant thing?

      Thanks,
      Terri
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    2. #2
      rcdmc2 is offline Member
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      don't slow the flow, but put a T on the line that go to the UV on line to UV the other to the pond by doing this the flow still normal but the water that went to the UV will be clear, it happen to me 3 months ago.

    3. #3
      Terrilp is offline Senior Member
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      I only want to slow the flow to the UV by using a valve, but I guess I'm not sure how slow, 300gph, 600gph, 800gph to get the most effective use of my UV light. The UV was a new addition to the pond this season, so I'm still figuring out how to get it setup correctly. It had stopped working about 3 weeks ago, and had to be sent in, and that's when my green water appeared. Now I have it back, and want to make sure I'm getting the most out of it.

      Thanks
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    4. #4
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      definetly not an istant thing, it takes a few days to clear, you don't want to slow your filtration flow down to control the flow to the uv light, I used Ts to split mine and a valve to control only the flow to the uv, it took some time but I got the flow just right and all works good now.

    5. #5
      dick benbow's Avatar
      dick benbow is offline "The Koi Coach"
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      was curious to learn if you placed your light before or after the filter system.

      Most japanese put it in front of the filter, most americans after.....the difference is in the opinion of whether you want things killed before enetering the filter or before going to the pond.

      BTW the algea and other living things like paracites are killed instantly to the exposure.

      I got a new wm Lim UV light this year and have been very happy with it's results.
      Dick Benbow
      "The Koi Coach"
      member Team Purdin

    6. #6
      BrentC is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by dick benbow View Post

      I got a new wm Lim UV light this year and have been very happy with it's results.
      Wish I could say the same.... I might need a bigger one myself.

    7. #7
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      There is no minimum flow requirement for the UV itself. The size of your pond should be considered to determine the most efficient flow rate.

      By the way, the maximum flow rate for your UV is based upon ideal conditions meaning clear water. The UV can easily penetrate clear water so it can handle a high flow rate. When the water is green, the light doesn't penetrate as well so the UV needs more exposure time to kill off the algae. Exposure time can be increased by reducing the flow rate. Light penetration is also the reason why mechanical filtration should be in front of the UV to remove solids that would otherwise block the light. A large number of people also prefer to have a fines filter after the UV to help remove dead algae rather than recirculate it through the pond.

      If you're having a problem, try reducing the flow by 25-50% and then wait for a few days. Don't use the quilt batting as a guide, though, because even though the algae is being killed, the chlorophyll will still be green for a while.

      It has been stated already but bears repeating, when you "reduce the flow" to the UV, make sure there is a parallel water line so the overall flow rate of the filter system is not reduced.
      Last edited by Mackster66; 09-04-2008 at 04:19 PM.
      - Mack
      "I'm not young enough to know everything." -Oscar Wilde

    8. #8
      koiman1950's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Terrilp View Post
      I know my uv has a maximum of 1300 gph, but not sure I've seen if there is a minimum? I'm struggling with Green water, and want to slow down the flow, but not sure how slow I can go? Also, I am just curious, As the Algae flows thru the UV does it kill the algae instantly, or does this process take time? Mostly just curious on this since I have quilt batting after the UV and it is still green, no brown. So I'm assuming it's not an instant thing?

      Thanks,
      Terri
      Terri

      How many watts is this UV unit? What is your current flow rate? How big is your pond? How deep? How many fish? What type of filtration are you currently using? Is it in FULL sun?

      I ask these questions as it is necessary before simply making a comment about restricting flow. That may/may not be the correct way to clear the water.

      Mike

    9. #9
      Terrilp is offline Senior Member
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      My Pond is 3000 gallons, and *overstocked*, so that is my first problem! I have a canopy over the pond so it is not in the sun. I have a Laguna 55watt UV just purchased. Everything was Perfect until the unit stopped working. It went green, and I mean Green! I am not freaking out too much, been through this before, but I want to make sure I've got this light working right.

      Before the 1st uv light went bad, i had it hooked up after my sand/gravel filter, and it was getting a rate of approx. 600 gph. When I had to live without the uv light for about a week, I had made a temporary bakki type shower, but I filled 2 of the crates with quilt batting to try to fight the green. So since I had the old line now running to the bakki I now have the uv hooked up temporarily before filtration, running at about 800 gph.

      So, I'm guessing that my best bet would be to put the uv back in line after my filtration, and I think I would want to slow down the uv to maybe 500 gph?
      I've had the light back working on the pond since last friday, so almost a week, and I do have some clearing, but it's still BAD. I'm having to disagree with my dh, because he wants to empty and refill the pond, but I think that we would still have issues, or could he be correct that if we had clearer water to start with the uv could do it's job more effectively? Everything I've read here suggests my algae problem would be worse If I did a huge water change. Right now I do about 15% weekly.

      I would sure welcome any advice
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    10. #10
      Terrilp is offline Senior Member
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      It's Working! It's been raining most of the day, so I hadn't been outside since this morning. I just went out now, and it is clearer by far from this morning. So something is working. While searching through old posts, I kept reading, you have to find the source that is feeding the algae, so I had given all my filters and SC a good cleaning yesterday (my sc had some buildup). I clean my sand/gravel filters at least once a week, but admit, I don't clean out my SC as often, and I should.
      So at the moment, I am very happy. It's been at least 2 weeks since I have gotten a good look at all my fish. I can't wait!!
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    11. #11
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      Mackster66 is offline Senior Member
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      I'm glad to hear that your pond is clearing up, but don't let your guard down just yet. Rain can cause temporary clearing.

      I would advise against doing a complete water change. The water will be clear for a day or two and turn even greener than before. It will cause stress to your fish and won't cure the problem.

      Keep an eye on the water - I hope it stays clear.
      - Mack
      "I'm not young enough to know everything." -Oscar Wilde

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