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    Thread: A simple pipe boot

    1. #1
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      A simple pipe boot

      I'm sure many have heard this talked about but weren't quite sure what it is. So here goes, this is the cheapest and most effective way to bring a pipe through an EPDM liner. I don't advocate having pipes sticking into the pond but I know as well as anyone it may be necessary at some point.

      Dome right there can be very little protruding into the pond, such as for a TPR or a coupler can be used to extend it to retro skimmers and bottom drains. The nice thing is if there's a dirt back you can angle the TPRs with only a slight wrinkle in the liner.

      The best is that it can be used on any sized pipe, the only cost difference is a larger hose clamp. Compare that to a 3" or 4" bulkhead fitting.

      One word of caution, use only high quality hose clamps. While the band is stainless on most the screw drive mechanism isn't always and rusting could lead to problems down the road.

      Garrett

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    2. #2
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Making the hole.

      Make a round hole in the liner half the diameter of the pipe you intend to use. for 2" use a 1" hole etc. I used a hole punch set but careful work with a razor blade will work too.

      Take a scrap piece of liner and cut it about 1" or so bigger than the diameter of the pipe you using. This will provide padding for the hose clamp. Punch or cut the same size small hole in the middle as above.

      Garrett
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    3. #3
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Push in the pipe.

      This can be done from either side depending on where you access it for tightening the hose clamp. You can see it forms , for lack of a better description, a small cone on the pipe. This is where the hose clamp will tighten over.

      In the second pic you can see the donut over the pipe now also, because of the added pressure it defines the cone better and allows a little better area to seat the hose clamp.

      Garrett
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    4. #4
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Put on the hose clamp.

      And you're done. Do not over tighten, the stretch of the liner alone will hold quite a bit of pressure and the clamp is just to snug it up and hold in place. Try to get the right sized clamp, slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, you don't want a large stainless piece sticking out the end once tight.

      Not much to it, very effective and cheap too boot. A second donut can be made and slipped over the clamp. This will help cover it and if you seal that donut to the liner it hides it very well.

      The second shot shows it from the back side, if you have access from the outside of the pond or tank to tighten the clamp it can be a very clean look. The pipe could then be cut down almost flush if wanted.

      On a side note a friend has done this with water in the pond. He pressed the pipe against the liner and cut the hole then immediately pushed the capped pipe through with minimal water loss. I don't recommend it but had to throw it out there.

      Garrett
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    5. #5
      DRussell's Avatar
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      Thats pretty.

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Harveythekoi View Post
      I'm sure many have heard this talked about but weren't quite sure what it is. So here goes, this is the cheapest and most effective way to bring a pipe through an EPDM liner. I don't advocate having pipes sticking into the pond but I know as well as anyone it may be necessary at some point.

      Dome right there can be very little protruding into the pond, such as for a TPR or a coupler can be used to extend it to retro skimmers and bottom drains. The nice thing is if there's a dirt back you can angle the TPRs with only a slight wrinkle in the liner.

      The best is that it can be used on any sized pipe, the only cost difference is a larger hose clamp. Compare that to a 3" or 4" bulkhead fitting.

      One word of caution, use only high quality hose clamps. While the band is stainless on most the screw drive mechanism isn't always and rusting could lead to problems down the road.

      Garrett
      where do you suggest buying ALL STAINLESS STEEL hose clamps, including the screw? I saw some at homedepot and lowes, but they were unsure whether the screw itself was stainless.

      Ethan
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    7. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by Harveythekoi View Post

      On a side note a friend has done this with water in the pond. He pressed the pipe against the liner and cut the hole then immediately pushed the capped pipe through with minimal water loss. I don't recommend it but had to throw it out there.

      Garrett
      part of me would be that crazy you know.....
      Ephesians 2:8-9
      faith is a gift, not a personal talent.


    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by Ethan25 View Post
      where do you suggest buying ALL STAINLESS STEEL hose clamps, including the screw? I saw some at homedepot and lowes, but they were unsure whether the screw itself was stainless.

      Ethan
      My understanding is that they will say "All stainless" on the clamp. Ive seen some that do and some that dont say that. I could be wrong...

    9. #9
      Leekinneykoi's Avatar
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      Great pictorial Garrett .

      I have thought of trying this with one of those super cheap shower drains, the ones that have no bulkhead, you just glue in a 2" pipe.
      Your liner would go over the OD of the shower drain and be clamped, so inside the pond you have the flat bigger side where the shower plate would go.
      There would only be that 1/4" thick edge sticking into the pond.
      Just an idea for your next pictures.
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    10. #10
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Leekinneykoi View Post
      Great pictorial Garrett .

      I have thought of trying this with one of those super cheap shower drains, the ones that have no bulkhead, you just glue in a 2" pipe.
      Your liner would go over the OD of the shower drain and be clamped, so inside the pond you have the flat bigger side where the shower plate would go.
      There would only be that 1/4" thick edge sticking into the pond.
      Just an idea for your next pictures.
      There you go! Great idea, the liner will clamp to just about anything. But I have no shower drains laying around, if you do please take a pic and add it to the thread.

      I'll have to see if I have a bulkhead that I can show a small hole stretched over for people going that route.

      Pony up people, lets make this a lner penetration thread.

      Garrett

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    11. #11
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Hard to gets shots this close.

      I grabbed a handful of clamps and tried to see what they said. Most said all stainless or had some other indicator. One did not say but had an S stamped on the back. I wouldn't trust that one.

      Bring your reading glasses if you're getting old like me.

      EDIT: That UPC shield may mean it's plumbing code rated and should be all stainless if there are no other indicators.

      Garrett
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    12. #12
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      Yeah. Are you in agreement, Garrett, that the "all stainless" refers to the screw and band? IIRC, seems like the bigger ones were more difficult to find in all stainless.

    13. #13
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      For perspective...

      The shot with the 2" is the hole I made for the boot.

      For the bulkhead (odd one) I probably went a little small in the pic. The key is to get the cone inverted as shown so the inside of the hole is against the bulkhead. Then when you tighten the nut on it will flatten out. It may need a little tugging around the edges as you go to keep from folding up but there's no chance it will squish out this way.

      I would try it tight an if needed enlarge the hole later. This liner will stretch a lot and it's best to use that to our advantage.

      Garrett
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    14. #14
      Harveythekoi is offline Senior Member
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      Whoa Nelly......

      I started to agree with you Luke but decided to run my own test.

      I took a magnet and applied it to the screw parts of the four clamps posted above. As I thought the one with no indicator stuck to the magnet. To my surprise the one that has ALL STAINLESS stamped big and bold across the front stuck too. To the best I could figure out it was the actual screw that stuck.

      Both that had the UPC shield did not stick at all indicating all stainless. So lesson learned, take a magnet with you when you shop for them. It also confirms my thoughts that the UPC must be some stringent standard they have to meet.

      Garrett

    15. #15
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      Lee talked about the cheapo shower drains but what about the normal shower drain with the threaded nut. Has anyone used on of those as a bulkhead thru a liner? If you put it in thru the pond side and thread the nut on from the outside, will that work.
      Steve


    16. #16
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      What is UPC? A brand?

    17. #17
      Joey S's Avatar
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      Very neat trick Garrett. Steve, I have used the shower drain with nut as a QT bottom drain (liner), but I glued it too. Luke, UPC stands for Uniform Plumbing Code!!
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    18. #18
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      If you have trouble finding all stainless clamps, try a boat supply store. But I guarantee the price will probably double!!
      For the love of Koi
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    19. #19
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      Garrett , can you show us how to do this with a liner already installed and half filled with water ?

    20. #20
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      i think your right

      Quote Originally Posted by Joey S View Post
      Very neat trick Garrett. Steve, I have used the shower drain with nut as a QT bottom drain (liner), but I glued it too. Luke, UPC stands for Uniform Plumbing Code!!
      On the UPC code .

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