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  • Page 3 of 13 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast
    Results 41 to 60 of 250

    Thread: 55 Gal Drum Sand and gravel filter/DIY

    1. #41
      luke-gr's Avatar
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      EDIT: Deleted post. Sorry, Im screwing up today....
      Last edited by luke-gr; 03-07-2006 at 03:23 PM.

    2. #42
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      Hey Kent...Can I get some info on the kind of air pump needed for this filter? I am gonna make one but havent got an air pump. How much power does the pump need? Thanks.

    3. #43
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      Photog, did you see post #31 in this thread? Kent says he uses a 1hp blower.

    4. #44
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      I saw that, I was wondering what the minimum power pump would need to be. Where would I find a blower for sale???

      I figured that the regular pumps for aeration wouldnt work...or would they?

    5. #45
      Kent Wallace's Avatar
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      Even the one hp is too large but a regular aeration pump won't work. A good vacuum cleaner blower might do it. It takes a good initial umph to get things moving. You might try compressed air if it was cleaned and free of oil. I've always just used the 1 hp blower and haven't experimented with other things.

    6. #46
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      I was looking for them on line and can't find them either. Where do you find the blower, Kent?

      Can a 55 gallon drum be used as the settlement chamber instead of William's?
      Sandy
      CKK, KHA

    7. #47
      Kent Wallace's Avatar
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      Yes if the flow is kept uner 2000 gph.

    8. #48
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      Kent can this filter be made bigger?? What would it take to flow say 5000 gph?

    9. #49
      Kent Wallace's Avatar
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      Once you get to three of these, time and materials wise, you might as well buy one big one, Williams EZR holds 400 gallons total, 190 of that is water. It takes about 5 of the little ones to equal the performance of one big one. It's the diameter that determines the flow rate and the total volume that determines the over performance and cleaning interval cycle.

    10. #50
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      Kent can you explain how to clean this filter? I know the blower cleans out the gravel, but is the water pump then running to flush it out at the same time??

    11. #51
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      Quote Originally Posted by Kent Wallace
      To clean this filter you shut the pump down and open the drain a little and let the water go down a couple of inches below the spill or outlet pipe. The bottom drain is good for this and it can actually be opened at any time for a quick flush of the bottom.
      Close the drain and turn on the blower for a few seconds. Shut off the blower and open the upper drain. Turn on the pump and let the filter flush itself from the bottom up until the water runs clear. If the water climbs and tries to go over the spill or through the outlet depending on drainage flow just shut the pump down for a few seconds and turn it back on.
      Do not run the air blower with the upper drain open. You will lose sand. Over time you may need to add a little sand ocassionally anyway.
      Once the water runs fairly clear you're done and remember to close the valve from the air blower. If the filter is really dirty do it again.

      post #24

    12. #52
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      I love the idea of a sand filter and you're filter should work well for awhile but I can see where it would also work as a bacterial chamber and may eventually clog. We have the same issue in the water industry and use much the same filter except we use just sand and pour the water over the sand and let the water move through the sand by gravity. As the filter clogs we close off the inlet and pump clean water backwards through the filter and the crud comes off the top and flows out a drain. Over time the will filter clog up and won't clean. At this point we scrape off just the top layer of sand which will be colored and continue using the filter.

      My question, does anything I'm saying make sense or is all a moot point? Have you considered a gravity design?

      I don't find that everythigng from the water industry transfers over to ponding the same way.

      I would like to find some way to "polish" my water in the summer. My pond is healthy and my filters work well but the only time of the year I have crystal clear water is in the winter months. After watching the fish all winter I'd just love to have the clear water in the summer.


      Jongig

    13. #53
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      Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Bill
      post #24

      Blond roots last night and trying to look at too many threads about the EZR at the same time. I found it later too

    14. #54
      Kent Wallace's Avatar
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      Jongig, the filter is a low pressure upflow design and won't clog very easily. I've seen people ignore these for a very long time to almost no flow. Turn on the blower and flush it all out and it's as good as new, actually better because its seasoned. It would be virtually impossible to clog this filter to the point of needing to disassemble it.

    15. #55
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      I know this is a good polishing filter, but will it work for mechanical? I am thinking of 2 in parallel after the settlement tank so the big junk would be out. So do I need to prefilter the water better than just the settlement?

    16. #56
      Kent Wallace's Avatar
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      It's a great mechanical filter but should always be used after settlement. The better you prefilter it the less you have to clean it. Mine worked great along with all the the others I've installed but when I added a floating microscreen there was a big difference in maintenance and water clarity. I really thought my water was great but after the microscreen it was better!

    17. #57
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      Hmm could you show us pictures of your water clarity?

    18. #58
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      Kents pond....
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    19. #59
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      WOw thats really nice

    20. #60
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      Kent will a 1hp blower do 2 filters at the same time, or would that not be feasible in cleaning them to do them at the same time? I will have the 2 sets of 2 filters. If workable will the 1hp do it or would I need to go to a 1.5?

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