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  • Results 1 to 17 of 17

    Thread: Pond not clear and Fishes not healthy

    1. #1
      CaoCon is offline Member
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      Exclamation Pond not clear and Fishes not healthy

      Dear all,

      I have a 7K gallons pond. Filter : Sieve filter -> Ultima II 10,000 gallon bead filter
      -> Shower filter (8-10 cubic of feather rock)

      I started to see my Kois getting redness on theirs skin and fins plus scratching at the bottom. On top of that, water is not clear as it should be. I have changed 10%-15% water daily for a week. I also added Melafix Pond(700ml) after the water changes (1 week). I did not forget to add bacteria powder everyday(1 week) . After a lot of effort and spending a lot of money, my fishes do not getting better and water is still not clear.

      Could you please help me

      Thanks

    2. #2
      graybird's Avatar
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      It sounds like you have parasites. What is your water temp? Depending on temperature, you may still be able to treat. Discontinue the Melafix and bacteria powder, they are useless.

      It would also be helpful to have your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and KH. How old is the pond and have you added any fish lately? How many koi do you have?
      Mary

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      Dear Graybird,

      Thank you for your quick response. Here is my pond number:
      1.Ammonia: 0
      2. Nitrite : 0
      3. Nitrate : 0
      4. PH: 8.0
      5. KH: 13
      6. GH: 15
      7. It is 5 months old pond
      8. I have two new Koi but it from famous dealer.
      9. Currently, I have 9 fishes. (3 : 18inch - 3: 15 inch - 3 : 12 inch)
      10. Water temp: 64 F


      Thank you all for you help
      I stoped used MelaFix Pond. Currently, I am using Eco Labs BSDTGAL Broad Spectrum Disease Treatment (700ml each other day)
      Last edited by CaoCon; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:10 AM.

    4. #4
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Did you quarantine the new koi? Or add them direct to your pond right after? If this case parasites has been spread by the new recent koi
      If youíre in NorCal then water temperature is slowly dropping so same as immune system of the koi
      If youíre already treating with Broad spectrum diseases treatment why not do a shot gun treatment
      That includes the 2 rounds of prazi quantel or Kluke M (I prefer)
      I learned that QT is a must for every new addition

      5 months is still a short time for bacteria to colonize fully to polish or work the water
      Btw do you have any UV light?
      Last edited by OCkoiFan; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:15 AM.
      M.Nguyen


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      1. NO, I did not QT them because I trusted on the dealer. However I did dipped them into Potassium Permanganate for 15 minutes.

      2. I don't know anything else except ProForm-C and Spectrum. Could you please show me what "Shot gun " treatment is and where can I buy it ?

      3. I don't have QT tank.

      Thanks Mitch

      Quote Originally Posted by OCkoiFan View Post
      Did you quarantine the new koi? Or add them direct to your pond right after? If this case parasites has been spread by the new recent koi
      If youíre in NorCal then water temperature is slowly dropping so same as immune system of the koi
      If youíre already treating with Broad spectrum diseases treatment why not do a shot gun treatment
      That includes the 2 rounds of prazi quantel or Kluke M (I prefer)
      I learned that QT is a must for every new addition

    6. #6
      icu2's Avatar
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      If it is parasites as Mary suggested, BSDT would be what I'd use too. It's basically the same as Proform-C.
      I'd get some Prazi or Fluke-M and add it with the BSDT on the 3rd treatment and then leave it for 7 days
      with no water change. Then I usually do a second dose of Prazi/Fluke-M 7-14 days after the first treatment.

      BSDT will kill most parasites except flukes. Prazi or Fluke-M will kill flukes. The second dose should handle
      gill flukes which are egg layers and waiting a couple weeks will give time for any of those eggs to hatch and
      eliminate them too.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "It is far better to be alone, than to be in bad company." --George Washington

    7. #7
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Do you have a UV light?
      5 months is still short for bacteria to fully develop
      There are so many ponds at a dealer they moved koi back and forth so honestly youíll get a few bugs
      QT is and treating them rather than PP dip

      Shot gun treatment:
      Broad spectrum treatments take care all the parasites except Fluke

      And prazi treament take care of Fluke but now Kusuri Fluke M is a better choice including myself

      So here the procedure
      Amount to follow bottle direction
      Day 1 do 25% waterchange then add Proform C
      Day 2 do 25% waterchange then add Proform C
      Day 2 do 25% waterchange then add Proform C and Fluke M together
      Now wait 5-7 days do any waterchange if needed and redose Fluke M again
      Donít do waterchange for another 5 days

      It is a lot of water to waste for this and I donít like it
      That is why QT save me more money
      A smaller tank
      Good luck baby fox

      Cross post with icu2 but more info is alway good
      M.Nguyen


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      Dear Mitch and ICU2,
      Thank you all for the detail treatment. I have couple more questions : After this treatment, will the redness on my fish go away ? (other forum said I need to add salt but I don't like it. I need water for my garden. Salt will kill them all.)

      Will my pond water will look better after this treatment or I need to do anything else ?

      Thank you for your help again.
      Thank you for other members who read my post

      P/S: I have UV light but I turned it off .
      Best regards..

      CaoCon
      Last edited by CaoCon; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:56 AM.

    9. #9
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      Pic please
      UV help with water clarity
      But if you have to turn if off for treatments then it is ok
      Salt is not necessary right now or useless
      Let’s fight the parasites first which causes the rubbing fliashing and comes redness
      By doing waterchanges also would help the clearness of the water
      Keep all number at zero and they will heal on their own if not will go to treating infections later
      By the way is your water over 50F ? If lower it is not good to treat Proform C
      M.Nguyen


    10. #10
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      1. I will take picture of my pond tomorrow morning
      2. I've just check couple of times. At night, water temp is range from 60-64.
      3. If I put a lot of medication in long time like this, will my pond crash because beneficial bacteria death ?
      4. How can I set up a QT tank in low budget ?

      Quote Originally Posted by OCkoiFan View Post
      Pic please
      UV help with water clarity
      But if you have to turn if off for treatments then it is ok
      Salt is not necessary right now or useless
      Letís fight the parasites first which causes the rubbing fliashing and comes redness
      By doing waterchanges also would help the clearness of the water
      Keep all number at zero and they will heal on their own if not will go to treating infections later
      By the way is your water over 50F ? If lower it is not good to treat Proform C
      Thank you all

      CaoCon

    11. #11
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      No UV light and no salt while treating

      I've never had BSDT or Fluke-M effect my bio filter. Keep all the filters running so everything
      is treated.
      --Steve
      Find more about Weather in Poulsbo, WA

      "It is far better to be alone, than to be in bad company." --George Washington

    12. #12
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      With temperature still above 60F the koi might able to rebound faster.

      All you need is a small pool, stock tank or build one that fit the indoor area
      Ideal size from 300-500 gallons with a small pump and a good filtration
      Keeping indoor might help with control the temperature So heater can be helpful to raise the temperature thus help speed up the healing process when medication

      This is my qt set up
      I use 2-300w aquariums heaters in the blue barrel when needed to maintain temperature
      http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showth...-Qtank-outdoor
      Last edited by OCkoiFan; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:21 AM.
      M.Nguyen


    13. #13
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      CaoCon, you have gotten excellent advice here. It is also common for new ponds to go through a "green" stage while the biofilter is getting up to speed. Once you turn your UV back on that should clear it up.

      For my QT, which I have to dismantle and store between uses, I use a Dreampond 6' tank (an Intex swimming pool works well too, often cheapest at Walmart). I have a "bottom drain" made of a 2" flex pipe drilled at 5 and 7 o'clock and made into a circle with a T-shape PVC joint, which goes up and over the side and through a Tiny Might pump, then to a Matala Biosteps filter. I have a homemade air diffuser but you could buy a big disc at Pentair. Everything is put together with unions and it's easy to set up/take down, even for me -- I am seriously spatially challenged. There are retro bottom drains on the market, and I'm sure there are instructions for DIY filters out there. In between uses, after disinfecting the Matala mats, I put them in a couple of huge black mesh laundry bags and suspend them in my pond. The black bags camouflage them so you don't see 'em
      Mary

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    15. #15
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      The water is not too bad for a fairly new pond
      Iíd say it close to normal

      I also see water hyacinths
      Adding these plants to pond also introduce problems unless and I donít even know how to quarantine plants
      Last edited by OCkoiFan; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:07 PM.
      M.Nguyen


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      Thank you all for you valuable knowledge. I am really appreciate for your help

      Mitch, the water looks mucky , not clear like it should be.

      Thanks you all

      Cao Con

    17. #17
      OCkoiFan's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by CaoCon View Post
      Thank you all for you valuable knowledge. I am really appreciate for your help

      Mitch, the water looks mucky , not clear like it should be.

      Thanks you all

      Cao Con
      You know your water better than anyone
      You stated you’ve been treating broad spectrum so when you add it there should be a blue tint color
      I’m not concern about water clear or not since your UV is turned off
      Without UV with that large volume of water it will not be like pristine

      I still think you should have some detectable nitrate ? But none tested above
      M.Nguyen


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