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    Thread: just dug new 90-100000 gal mud pond

    1. #1
      Tlandrum is offline Junior Member
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      just dug new 90-100000 gal mud pond

      i just finished a couple of weeks ago digging my new mud pond. its 5-6 ft deep and has about 2 ft of water in it so far.i have a few questions. being fall there have been many leaves fall into the pond , will this hurt anything? being a freshly filled pond ,how long should i wait to add the fish i am wanting to winter in it (25 fish)? i will be adding a fountain or aeration to it but havent decided which. most likely aeration. im in middle east tn so the winters can get cold but they dont stay below freezing for long periods of time most years. so any help or advice would be great.

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      First things first...only boys or girls.....Once you go with both you got a big issue... the uglies will take over. Unless you consistently net out the uglies.
      Next why 25? Aesthetically 25 fish is pushing it in a 100,000 gallon mud pond. get less than 10. they'll grow to be hawgs and be healthier...and when they get big they will come to a feeder better if you train em. It ain't how many; it is how purdy.
      "Those aren't poodles. They're Dobermans with afros."

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      the fish that im wanting to winter in the mud pond will be netted back out come spring to sell.right now they are in a 2000 gal grow out tank, they range in size from 9 to 14''. after they are removed from the mud pond in spring, my sanke, that i am hoping to spawn, will be put back in it. my idea is to move my sanke back inside to the grow out tank in the heated garage for wintering so that they will be strong and healthy and ready to stretch out in the bigger mud pond come spring. my plan is to have roughly a dozen chosen breeders in this pond permanently after spring. i will be building more mud ponds for other selected varieties of koi this winter but they wont likely be filled til early 2019. i only plan to breed 3 or 4 different types of koi. sanke,utsuri,yamabuki,asagi.

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      How are you filling the pond? Well water? Rain and run off?

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      filling with it with a spring that i dug up near it and from rain water from my down spouts. its graded so that run off will not get into it. i planned to build a spring house over top of the spring that i dug up and do a float switch in the pond to keep it filled during periods of no rain or just keep a small pump running all the time and let it be like a flow in flow out set up
      .

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      Name:  pond.jpg
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      Looks like you will be putting up a critter fence around the pond. What slope ratio are the banks? Looks like a nice size to easily seine..
      Last edited by BWG; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:29 AM.

    8. #8
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      @Tlandrum
      Have you checked your total alkalinity (mg/L CaCO3)?
      Important water quality parameter to know.
      EDIT:
      A safe "upper limit" for final fish biomass in a 100,000 gallon earthen pond would be about 77 lb. That would be 77 lb of full-size fish.
      Last edited by bigbrudda84; 1 Week Ago at 06:50 PM.
      Aquaculture/Aquatic Science https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/aquaculture

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      Good looking pond.



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      surface area 70x50

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      Forgot to mention that a lot of organics (e.g. leaves) can cause low dissolved oxygen.
      In "warm weather," I would say wait at least 2 weeks -- after the leaves have finished falliing -- to allow organics to decompose and oxygen levels to rise.
      If the pond freezes, it can be a problem if a layer of snow covers the ice surface. The snow will block light (and oxygen levels could drop).
      Will fish be coming from water that is the same temperature as the pond water they are going into?
      BTW I live in west KY, so our winters are similar.
      Last edited by bigbrudda84; 1 Week Ago at 12:58 PM.
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      i will be cutting the heat on the indoor grow out tank and letting it cool to the same temp as the pond before they move. i will also be adjusting the ph in the pond. right now its only 6.0ph, i have added 50lbs of baking soda since i took the ph reading. i will be rechecking it tomorrow to see if it has moved. ill also be adding some cold water bacteria to it. i will be running an aerator on it too so that i know oxygen will be good.

    13. #13
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      Baking soda (sodium bircarbonate) will only have a temporary effect on pH. Agricultural limestone (powdered) will have long term effects on both pH and alkalinity. When soil alkalinity is right, pH becomes acceptable and stable.
      Get a soil sample from the pond bottom and have your local County Extension Office send it off to the soil lab for a liming recommendation. Tell them you are trying to grow alfalfa you want the liming requirement for alfalfa.

      https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/files/limin...quaculture.pdf
      https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/files/liquid_pellet_liming.pdf
      Last edited by bigbrudda84; 1 Week Ago at 10:21 PM.
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      What slope ratio are the pond banks? Do you have a pipe for overflow?

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      banks on 3 sides are 1 to 1 and the dam is 2 to 1. i installed a siphon overflow system on the dam after i got home from church this morning. the pond has about 4 ft of water in it now. 2 more ft and it will be full.

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      We made one pond slightly larger to this size with 2 to 1 ratio banks. Crushed rock 1 to 2 inches imbedded in slope. Even with rock didn't didn't hold up long term to wave and koi digging action. After 7 years it is closer to 3 to 1 now. I remember an older gentleman that built ponds in my area until he was in his upper 80s saying "I can build your pond now with 3 to 1 banks or Mother Nature will later".
      Last edited by BWG; 1 Week Ago at 01:09 PM.

    17. #17
      bigbrudda84's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BWG View Post
      "I can build your pond now with 3 to 1 banks or Mother Nature will later".
      3:1 pond levee slopes are the standard recommendation for aquaculture production ponds.
      https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/files/pondconstruction.pdf
      Aquaculture/Aquatic Science https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/aquaculture

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      BWG is offline Senior Member
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      We thought pushing the crushed stone into the banks with a heavy excavator bucket would prevent the erosion. Looking to keep the banks steeper to make it harder on preditors. Slowed erosion down but larger koi distroy pond banks. Our clay in the bottom and sides was excellent for pond building.

    19. #19
      Tlandrum is offline Junior Member
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      i took an actual measurement of the slope today and the 3 sides are a bit more than 2 to 1 and the dam is right at 3.25 to 1

    20. #20
      BWG is offline Senior Member
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      With spring water available for a continuous flow through trickle you have a very nice setup. As for the leaves just keep an aerator in the pond. Cut air back and do not over circulate in the coldest part of the winter. Cut air to aeration by venting some off.

      I have never seen temperature inversion type problems with organics on a shallow pond. Plus I have never seen it on deeper ponds with proper aeration and circulation.
      Last edited by BWG; 1 Week Ago at 11:04 AM.

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