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  • Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678
    Results 141 to 152 of 152

    Thread: Low-Profile Shower Filter

    1. #141
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      Understood. Until I find the card (probably stuck to the outlet screen in the MB filter), I'll monitor ammonia via the API kit. Regardless how it measures ammonia, the purpose is for differential testing only, meaning it's just to make sure that ammonia levels don't rise as I gradually remove MB media. As of today, probably 2/3 of it has been scooped out. If ammonia stays low, the big switch over will likely occur this weekend
      Just me personally I think it'll be more relevant with the API kit. Most hobbyists are using those to measure ammonia
      unless they have a specific problem and have added Prime/Safe... that's when I think they get an Alert card to try and
      monitor NH3 specifically. I think most will be able to relate better to regular drip kit.
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    2. #142
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      The Alert card is only measuring NH3 (harmful) ammonia. The API liquid tests are measuring total ammonia nitrogen(TAN)
      which is NH3 AND NH4 (ionized and non ionized ammonia). The two won't measure the same if the water has more of one
      than the other or when you've added Prime or Safe which ionizes ammonia.
      So I took a cup of water and I added about 2-3 tbls of bottled ammonia. My API kit read off the charts and the Alert card read zero (lightest color). What am I missing? Wouldn’t the bottled ammonia be harmful Nh3?
      Doesn’t this indicate that the card was faulty?
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    3. #143
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      Quote Originally Posted by GoldieGirl View Post
      So I took a cup of water and I added about 2-3 tbls of bottled ammonia. My API kit read off the charts and the Alert card read zero (lightest color). What am I missing? Wouldn’t the bottled ammonia be harmful Nh3?
      Doesn’t this indicate that the card was faulty?
      We need someone smarter than me but I'd think it was faulty...
      I've never bought an Alert card but I have a Seneye meter that just measures NH3 like the card and I think
      I've put ammonium chloride in a solution to see the reaction on it and it tests positive so I'd think it was the
      same.
      --Steve
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    4. #144
      kimini is online now Senior Member
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      I got excited, wanting to see the shower working on its own, so it was switched over today.

      The rest of the MB media was scooped out of the IBC, then drained. The FF Pro was moved over to the outlet of the RDF, resulting in much simpler plumbing, changing from six 4" elbows to two, and the overall length of the pipe reduced from maybe 20 feet to about 5 feet.

      Before shutting off the aeration on the MB, its power consumption was measured again, 88W. Interestingly, VA was about 130, but the power factor of 0.7 or so lowered the effective power. I'll have to check and see if home power meters measure power in watts or VA—I suspect the former. Anyway, with the MB still in the circuit, total power was 75 W for the FF Pro + 88W for the MB aeration, or 163W. After converting to operating solely on the shower filter, total power has decreased, though the flow is a bit of a mystery.

      I've been working with the FF Pro pump curves, so who knows how accurate they are. I set pump rpm at some value, see what power it consumes, then use the curves to see what kind of flow and dynamic head results. The findings were... interesting. I triple-checked the values to make sure I got them right; given the results, I suspect the 1200 rpm curve may be wrong:

      1000 rpm:
      90W, 6600 gph; 0.33 meters dynamic head

      1100 rpm:
      106W, 8450 gph; 0.35 meters dynamic head


      1200 rpm:
      130W, 7400 gph; 0.48 meters dynamic head


      1300 rpm:
      155W, 8700 gph; 0.57 meters dynamic head

      1400 rpm:
      185W, 9500 gph; 0.67 meters dynamic head

      The red entries are suspicious because watching the flow, it is moving more water as rpm increases, as one would expect, yet the graphs say otherwise; wish I had a proper flow meter, though it's more for curiosity sake than anything else. What is interesting is how little improvement in flow there is going from 1100 to 1300 rpm; flow increases only 250 gph, yet power consumption increases by roughly 50 watts (again, it's unknown how accurate the curves are).

      Regarding the sound of the shower, it's like frying bacon a neighbor's lawn sprinklers. I realize this shower isn't like the traditional types, but figured that someone would ask.

      Ignoring the curves and instead adjusting the pump to create the same (visual) flow as before resulted in total power consumption being around 120W, so switching from the MB to the low-profile shower has resulted in a power savings of roughly 43 watts, so that goal has been achieved. If I want to increase the flow, the weir on the shower is going to have to be enlarged. It's currently 20" wide and 1" tall, and at anything over about 1300 rpm, it's pretty much maxed out.

      So now the waiting and monitoring begins, keeping a close eye on water quality to make sure the shower has picked up the load. If water quality is wonderful, the decision will have to be made: should flow be reduced to further cut energy usage. We shall see.

      PS: Still haven't found the alert card. It wasn't in the MB, so I'm thinking it sank to the bottom of the RDF, under the drum where I can't see it. I need to get it out of there so that it doesn't end up going through the FF Pro impeller...
      Last edited by kimini; 2 Days Ago at 10:06 PM.

    5. #145
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      Weirs are used to measure water flow. Below is a website calculator that I haven't previously used. As always with flow calculations there are several variables, so it may not represent your situation, but a 20 inch wide 1 inch flow results in 60 gpm in this calculator. There are probably others to use on-line.

      http://irrigation.wsu.edu/Content/Ca...acted-Weir.php

    6. #146
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      I don't know where the disconnect is; either the FF Pro tables or the weir equation is off by more than a factor of 2. Guess I'll measure actual flow by timing how long it takes to fill a trash can.

    7. #147
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      I don't know where the disconnect is; either the FF Pro tables or the weir equation is off by more than a factor of 2. Guess I'll measure actual flow by timing how long it takes to fill a trash can.
      Do you have access to any old 55 gal drums? They have measurement marks on them so you can accurately measure where the gallon line is. A 30 gallon trashcan could be 33 gallon to the very top or it could be 30 gallons to the top. Not a huge difference but seconds do count in measurements like this.
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    8. #148
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      I do have a container used to collect rain water which has markings, that could work.

      Another approach is to place a large trash bag on the surface of the pond, with the open end under the weir. Time how long it takes to fill to near full, then float it over to the edge of the pond, where a syphon hose is used to repeatedly fill a 5-gallon bucket. Between the time taken to fill it and how many buckets were filled, presto.

    9. #149
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      From my experience, weirs are usually used for field measurement of stream flows to get a good idea of what the stream is handling (that experience is over 50 years ago so it is very vague ...). But more recently I have seen the weir calculation used to estimate the total width of flows you can expect for pond waterfalls. Your case, you could expect to have a total of 20" of waterfall flows (20 each 1" wide, 10 each 2" wide ...), and each flow would be 1" deep.

      From today's research I see the measurement of depth of water over the weir is supposed to be taken 2.5 times the depth behind the weir face (in your case 1" depth at the weir x 2.5 = or at least 2.5" upstream of the weir face); but usually that is not a big difference with smaller volume of flows like we have (think of the slope of the water surface - and its increased velocity - just before it drops over a major river waterfall).

      A much bigger impact to the accuracy of measuring flow with a weir is if it isn't open channel flow above the weir. If the water was being pushed by pressure (like in a pipe), instead of being pulled by gravity as in a mountain stream, than the flow measured by the weir would be incorrect, and not be an accurate measurement (imagine your thumb over the end of a garden hose). If your bottom reservoir does not have open channel flow, than you are probably moving more water than your weir shows. The water would be spraying out further than if only gravity was pulling it down into the pond.

      Looking forward to test results if you can come up with a measurement method.

    10. #150
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      I do have a container used to collect rain water which has markings, that could work.

      Another approach is to place a large trash bag on the surface of the pond, with the open end under the weir. Time how long it takes to fill to near full, then float it over to the edge of the pond, where a syphon hose is used to repeatedly fill a 5-gallon bucket. Between the time taken to fill it and how many buckets were filled, presto.

      Ohhhh, but no so fast grasshopper!!!!! 5 gallon buckets are not the same. I have some that are 6.25 gallons to the rim and some that are 5 gallons to the rim. You really need to make sure you know what sized vessel you are measuring from, in order to get accurate results.

      I would use your large rain barrel with markings and average the times over 5 or so fill ups.
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    11. #151
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      Of course I'd calibrate the bucket first, sheez!

    12. #152
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