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  • Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678 LastLast
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    Thread: Low-Profile Shower Filter

    1. #121
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      I did turn up the flow just to see what happens—it handles it fine (meaning it doesn't spill out). That said, given that the whole point of this is low power consumption, it does mean not going for maximum flow. Well, let me rephrase: Once it's running solely on the shower, and after the water parameters settle in, flow will be reduced to so how low power consumption can go while still having healthy water. Once that (moving) target is somewhat established, we'll see what the power draw is, then decide whether it can be increased within reason. As said back at the start, "if" the shower proves to miraculously clear the pond of floating algae (I'm still highly skeptical but hope for the best), the 120W UV can be shut down, and some amount of that power savings applied to increased flow. That probably won't happen until next Spring, as the sun's getting pretty low now and the UV is due to be shut down for this season (though it was nearly 90F here today).

      Somewhat related, I'm wondering if there's some way of saving power on the SG pump. Maybe switching to a DC pump, but the cost benefit will have to studied. There "may" be a way to drive it off the FF Pro pump but suspect the backpressure will rule that out. Until Zac gets time to test some more of the magic DC pumps, that side of the system will be left as-is.
      Last edited by kimini; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:50 PM.

    2. #122
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      Quote Originally Posted by kevin32 View Post
      I had my pump shut off twice in the last month. Came back from koi show and pump was off..rdf was removing more water then i was trickling in. 2 weeks later I used my carbon filter to rinse off my turtles and didn't get the water coming in right and again the pump shut off from rdf cutoff switch. Both times i got is back and fed as usual. The bacteria seems to hang around pretty good and the inside of the media still was a little moist
      That's good to hear. I realize it's a squishy thing, dependent upon a great number of variables.

    3. #123
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      That's good to hear. I realize it's a squishy thing, dependent upon a great number of variables.
      Right there are Always variables. If it was 105 in summer then a whole different scenario. Either way my shower didnt feel a hiccup

    4. #124
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      I did turn up the flow just to see what happens—it handles it fine (meaning it doesn't spill out). That said, given that the whole point of this is low power consumption, it does mean not going for maximum flow. Well, let me rephrase: Once it's running solely on the shower, and after the water parameters settle in, flow will be reduced to so how low power consumption can go while still having healthy water. Once that (moving) target is somewhat established, we'll see what the power draw is, then decide whether it can be increased within reason. As said back at the start, "if" the shower proves to miraculously clear the pond of floating algae (I'm still highly skeptical but hope for the best), the 120W UV can be shut down, and some amount of that power savings applied to increased flow. That probably won't happen until next Spring, as the sun's getting pretty low now and the UV is due to be shut down for this season (though it was nearly 90F here today).

      Somewhat related, I'm wondering if there's some way of saving power on the SG pump. Maybe switching to a DC pump, but the cost benefit will have to studied. There "may" be a way to drive it off the FF Pro pump but suspect the backpressure will rule that out. Until Zac gets time to test some more of the magic DC pumps, that side of the system will be left as-is.
      For me the rdf removes the suspended algae. Upon heavy feeding the rdf cycled alot but also kept the suspended algae at bay.

    5. #125
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      You know I'm a bit skeptical though and would run this a the highest flow It can handle

    6. #126
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      My understanding is that floating algae is extremely small, like just a few microns in diameter, so the RDF screen would let it right through. I'll have to confirm the size for sure.

    7. #127
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      Quote Originally Posted by kevin32 View Post
      You know I'm a bit skeptical though and would run this a the highest flow It can handle
      I'll do it if you pay the electric bill!

    8. #128
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      My understanding is that floating algae is extremely small, like just a few microns in diameter, so the RDF screen would let it right through. I'll have to confirm the size for sure.
      I have not used a uv light over year

    9. #129
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      any practical smaller then 40 microns you can not see with the human eye. so if you have an rdf it should remove all floating algae. but then again it depends on the screen size being used.. but if you listen to the manufacture they filter down to 40 or 50 microns because of clogging.

      that being said I have been running my rdf for 2 years with a 37 micro screen and have zero clogging or reduction in flow.
      Last edited by kwickcut; 1 Week Ago at 08:47 PM.
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    10. #130
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      Quote Originally Posted by kwickcut View Post
      any practical smaller then 40 microns you can not see with the human eye...
      I used to believe that, but consider the case of throwing in a bag of finely ground lime. Each piece may be too small to see, but put millions in the pond and we can see the cloudiness.

    11. #131
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      Quote Originally Posted by kwickcut View Post
      any practical smaller then 40 microns you can not see with the human eye. so if you have an rdf it should remove all floating algae. but then again it depends on the screen size being used.. but if you listen to the manufacture they filter down to 40 or 50 microns because of clogging.

      that being said I have been running my rdf for 2 years with a 37 micro screen and have zero clogging or reduction in flow.
      I think he is referring to the single celled green algae that is effected by UV clarification. Suspended algae clumps and string algae are not effected by UV clarifiers and they are handled by the RDF. Single celled algae is way smaller than the eye to see but it ends up discoloring the water when the concentration builds up.
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    12. #132
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      Yes, that was the point I was trying to make: Take particulates that are too small to be seen individually; dumping millions of them into a pond will make the water cloudy.

      I searched and could not find the diameter of single-cell green algae, but recall that it's far smaller than any screen we use in RDFs. Getting back on topic, it remains to be seen whether a shower filter does something to the water that makes it intolerant to single-cell algae. I'll be happy if it does because the UV can be shut off, but until then, I remain skeptical.
      Last edited by kimini; 1 Week Ago at 12:37 PM.

    13. #133
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      Yes, that was the point I was trying to make: Take particulates that are too small to be seen individually, and dump millions of them into a pond; it'll make the water cloudy.

      I searched and could not find the diameter of single-cell green algae, but recall that it's far smaller than any screen we use in RDFs. Getting back on topic, it remains to be seen whether a shower filter does something to the water that makes it intolerant to single-cell algae. I'll be happy if it does because the UV can be shut off, but until then, I remain skeptical.
      It has been my experience that SOME biological filters (not only shower filters) do something to pond water to eliminate single-cell algae without the need for an UV filter. I wish I could explain how.


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    14. #134
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      I added a SeaChem Ammonia Alert card to see how it compares to the API test kit. While it's only been in place a day or so, it appears to show a lower level than the API kit. If it stays at zero, I assume there's no reason not to accelerate the switchover between the MB and shower, though I'm hesitant because it's unclear how much each filter is contributing to ammonia conversion. I guess the right way is to just keep removing moving bed media and monitor ammonia levels.
      Last edited by kimini; 1 Week Ago at 05:27 PM.

    15. #135
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      Kurt,
      You should also take some pictures of the color of the media in the MB as you remove the excess media. The bacteria could be getting thicker on the media in the MB as you remove it so the color could be getting darker slowly without you noticing.
      However, the shower could be colonizing fast and taking over the job of the moving bed media so the color would not change. Maybe snap some pictures of the rio media as well as the time goes on and see what kind of color changes are happening there.
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    16. #136
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      Understood; color would be a good indicator of activity. Opened the RDF to check the ammonia card and... it was gone. The little sucker cup failed and it's likely swirling around in the moving-bed filter. Will have to reach in and see if it's stuck to the exit screen...

    17. #137
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      Quote Originally Posted by kimini View Post
      I added a SeaChem Ammonia Alert card to see how it compares to the API test kit. While it's only been in place a day or so, it appears to show a lower level than the API kit. If it stays at zero, I assume there's no reason not to accelerate the switchover between the MB and shower, though I'm hesitant because it's unclear how much each filter is contributing to ammonia conversion. I guess the right way is to just keep removing moving bed media and monitor ammonia levels.
      Test your card in some water with added ammonia. I had two different cards that suspiciously kept reading zero in a cycling tank. When I tested the first one in a separate jar with bottled ammonia that should have read very high and it was still zero, I ordered another. Same thing. My third one worked but I have lost faith in depending on them. Could be devestaing if one fails!
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    18. #138
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      Those ammonia alert cards are garbage. Never had one work correctly and would always have a different reading than the actual liquid tests.

      Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    19. #139
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      The Alert card is only measuring NH3 (harmful) ammonia. The API liquid tests are measuring total ammonia nitrogen(TAN)
      which is NH3 AND NH4 (ionized and non ionized ammonia). The two won't measure the same if the water has more of one
      than the other or when you've added Prime or Safe which ionizes ammonia.
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    20. #140
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      Understood. Until I find the card (probably stuck to the outlet screen in the MB filter), I'll monitor ammonia via the API kit. Regardless how it measures ammonia, the purpose is for differential testing only, meaning it's just to make sure that ammonia levels don't rise as I gradually remove MB media. As of today, probably 2/3 of it has been scooped out. If ammonia stays low, the big switch over will likely occur this weekend

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