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  • Page 5 of 8 FirstFirst ... 2345678 LastLast
    Results 81 to 100 of 159

    Thread: Bottom drain to skimmer?

    1. #81
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Great , get Yourself some fusion pvc glue .
      .
      https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-Fusio...mer/1000200397
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      It’s a clear self priming pvc glue that takes longer to bond , so it will give You more time to align everything when You assemble them.
      Please reach out for help before assembling everything , and I’ll give You some pointers .
      .
      .

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    2. #82
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Subersibo View Post
      I was looking at the Atlantic water gardens pond filter n spillway. Some manufacturers just call them biofalls.
      I’ve researched the cost of making, maintaining and operating a pind already but was just wanted to know the advantages of having one or the other (filter/spillway vs diy equipment) and if I save some cash from going simpler then why not?
      Anyway, I ordered parts already so that’s that lol.
      The manufactured biofalls are only good to act as a spillway . Trust most of Us , with Our guidance , You will end up with a system that is cheaper , more efficient,and easier to clean.

    3. #83
      stevek is offline Supporting Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      In all honesty, I've done it. If I put glue on the grey sweeps and then tried to put it together it would have been dried
      by the time I managed to do it. These fit VERY tightly and it's all I could do to get them together. I had to put my whole
      body weight on top of the bend and pound the crap out of it on the garage floor to get the pieces together. After I managed
      to get it all in one piece there was no way I was going to try and take it apart and put glue on it to do it again.
      As long as we are speaking about " true confessions " , I did the exact same thing . My connections , for some reason, were very hard to dry fit , and I also had to pound them with a rubber mallet as well as pound on the floor , to seat them properly. I also assumed that the glue could set before I could get them to fit perfectly. After all the pounding for the dry fit, I think I could use the completed manifold as a connector between my truck and a boat to tow the boat without the manifold coming apart. It's been a number of years now, and I think the glueless manifold is holding up fine.

    4. #84
      LatkaLivesOn is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by catfish whiskers View Post
      Many ways to flow into a waterfall .
      A barrel filter can be against the back wall , and can gravity flow through pipes to the top of the waterfall . You do not need a spillway at the top of the waterfall , pipes can simply dump at the top of the waterfall , and be hidden by rocks .
      A barrel filter can also be mounted behind a waterfall , just like the waterfall filters that You considered , and attached to the liner the same way that the waterfall filter does. ....
      Question Catfish... I have just finished my Birdman S/G filter, but haven't finished gluing the drain pipe, so I can still move it. Now that it is set in place, however, it is close to the pond and I do not like the look of the 3" return pipe just sticking into the rocks at the top of the falls. I can see the barrel and piping and it is very unsightly. If I use this method of creating the filter as a spillway, how do you bypass the waterfall in the winter, but keep the S/G filter running if it is your waterfall? Steve (icu2) suggested that I built my barrel with a separate pond return that I can use in the winter to return underwater so that the falls can be bypassed. My falls spill into a bog, which I plan to bypass in the winter also. If I do this, my filter would have to be off-line all winter. Do you shut down your S/G filter in the winter months?

    5. #85
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by LatkaLivesOn View Post
      Question Catfish... I have just finished my Birdman S/G filter, but haven't finished gluing the drain pipe, so I can still move it. Now that it is set in place, however, it is close to the pond and I do not like the look of the 3" return pipe just sticking into the rocks at the top of the falls. I can see the barrel and piping and it is very unsightly. If I use this method of creating the filter as a spillway, how do you bypass the waterfall in the winter, but keep the S/G filter running if it is your waterfall? Steve (icu2) suggested that I built my barrel with a separate pond return that I can use in the winter to return underwater so that the falls can be bypassed. My falls spill into a bog, which I plan to bypass in the winter also. If I do this, my filter would have to be off-line all winter. Do you shut down your S/G filter in the winter months?
      I would not create a spillway in or on a 55 gal.S&G filter .The entire rim height of the barrel is needed when flushing it, as the water level rises when blown, and it would also be difficult to keep the sand from going down the waterfall , or the dirt from going into the pond when flushing it. It could be done with a taller barrel , but those are expensive. Use an empty barrel to make a waterfall spillway . Have the flow go to a valved manifold that can direct it to either the waterfall , or wherever else You want.
      I don’t personally shut any of My filtration down for winter . Cold Here in Calif. is 40 deg.

    6. #86
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      So I got most of the stuff and buying the remaining few now.
      I’m confused though in the first parts of the instructions for the filter he says there needs to be plugs for the ends of the male to female adapters and to use a 3” pvc and plug it. I tried using 3” pipe but how can they fit when the adapters are the same width as the pipe? 3” pvc into the adapter doesn’t fit. 3” cap to 3” pipe doesn’t fit as well.
      Also, there are no 3” pvc pipes anywhere just abs.
      Last edited by Subersibo; 09-19-2018 at 01:10 PM.

    7. #87
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      I’m not sure what You mean about 3” pipe being the same width as the adapters, because 3” pipe fits inside the adapters .
      These are the male and female conduit adapters , they are screwed through a hole you drill in the side of the barrel and used the make a water tight pipe connection through the side of barrel (bulkhead fitting) .
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      The cap and pipe are used to make plugs that fit into the conduit adapters , to stop the water flow from leaking out .
      Yes you can use ABS fittings , buy 3” ABS pipe , and 3’’ ABS caps . Cut a short piece of the 3’’ Pipe , and glue the 3’’ Cap to it , to make those plugs. Get all purpose glue to glue ABS & Pvc together , it will glue both kinds of pipe .
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    8. #88
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      The male adapter fits the female adaptor fine. But to connect a cap to it I need something in between (a 3” pvc or abs)
      none of the 3” tubing I’ve tried fits into the adapters and none of the 3” caps fit any kind of 3” tubing.
      I know it sounds confusing but everything that’s marked 3” don’t fit into one another. I’ll need a pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter.

    9. #89
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      Last edited by IAmHolland; 09-20-2018 at 12:37 AM.

    10. #90
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Subersibo View Post
      The male adapter fits the female adaptor fine. But to connect a cap to it I need something in between (a 3” pvc or abs)
      none of the 3” tubing I’ve tried fits into the adapters and none of the 3” caps fit any kind of 3” tubing.
      I know it sounds confusing but everything that’s marked 3” don’t fit into one another. I’ll need a pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter.
      Make sure the conduit adapters say 3’’ on them . The 3’’ Conduit adapters , 3’’ ABS caps , and black 3’’ ABS pipe All fit together .

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    11. #91
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      Ok, I got the wrong ones from plumbing instead of the electrical lol.
      What a dunce, huh? These fit and are less expensive than the ones I got. Gotta return those.
      Thanks for including the pics of the actual adaapters I need.

    12. #92
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      OK , and the conduit adapters are the only fittings that will tighten completely together to make a bulkhead, but what 3’’ Fittings did You get that did not fit 3’’ Pipe ?
      Did You get 3’’ Thin wall drain and waste fittings ?

    13. #93
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      I found 3” pvc in the electrical department. The whole problem was that I was looking at plumbing supplies.
      So all is good now. Got everything except the light diffuser. I wanna do the bulkhead firtings first.

    14. #94
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      Light diffuser is not strong enough , don’t cheap out on this .

    15. #95
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      So far I have drilled a hole in the bottom of the barrel. The shower drain comes with a rubber and a flannel gasket . Do I get rid of both of those? Do I get rid of the strainer as well? I can’t really see from the tutorial if he has the strainer on.
      Last edited by Subersibo; 09-19-2018 at 09:17 PM.

    16. #96
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      Last edited by IAmHolland; 09-20-2018 at 12:36 AM.

    17. #97
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      This ok? Dog kennel grating - https://www.qcsupply.com/duraslat-po...SABEgLPsPD_BwE

      Here is what I've done so far, do I put some silicone sealant around the drain to make sure there are no leaks?
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      Last edited by Subersibo; 09-19-2018 at 05:55 PM.

    18. #98
      catfish whiskers's Avatar
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      Yes that grating looks good , although I’ve never used it . Here’s the one I’ve used .
      See which is cheaper with shipping and coupons , I know farmtek has coupons.
      .
      http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies...roductId=20251
      .
      The shower drain should be used with sealant only , especially since You drilled the hole over the uneven ribs . Be careful with that , as it will be hard to seal . You could have drilled the hole in a flat part of the barrel , the drain does not have to be centered. If the barrel was cheap , I would get another one , and start over.

    19. #99
      tbullard is offline Senior Member
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      Also I believe you are supposed to take out the solid bar after it is installed. That is so you can hold the center section from spinning with a screwdriver during install.

    20. #100
      Subersibo is offline Senior Member
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      Solid bar of the shower drain?
      Yeh, I’ll probably just use a new barrel. That was good to practice on.

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