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  • Results 1 to 12 of 12

    Thread: Koi with fin rot?

    1. #1
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      Koi with fin rot?

      Hi everyone. I am not brand new to owning koi but it seems that I've stumbled into a newer problem for my pond. I have a 22" koi that Iv'e had for about a year and a half now. When I purchased him he was in quarantine for exactly six months. I put him into my established pond. No troubles. I ended up with a juvenile red ear slider- I have no idea how he appeared but he was definitely chasing fish and nipping fins. He is removed. Early this February my pond liner became brittle and sprung a leak. I had the liner replaced in a day (April first ironically) and pumped back in roughly about 10000 gallons of old pond water back into the new pond. I should state that I did not clean any of the filters to try to help cycle the pond. New water for the rest of it- a mix of well water and rain water puts me at 21000 gallons total. A pump malfunction happened and my large koi somehow managed to get caught on the back up pump and it sliced his tail on the. You can really see the nick in the second picture. His behavior hasn't changed in the slightest, still has a voracious appetite, no flashing, no ulcers, no cloudy eyes. He doesn't have any strange spots. Nothing outside of his normal nosy hungry self. But his tail is pink. There is not any fuzziness to his tail. From the time that the the nick happened until today is 26 days. I thought It was starting to look better but i'm not completely sure. However, full on panic mode has struck. I read an article about fin rot and I'm terrified that is what he has. The pink doesn't look like the pictures that i've seen online and on this forum, but I'm also color blind. That's where the worry sets in. My pond is one spilling into another. The upper level is completely filled with plants, and I have floating islands that have been with me for he last two years in the larger pond. I wash my filters out once a week. filter one is week one, filter two is week two and filter three is week three and so on. I don't want to hurt the overall performance of the pond, and I have been doing it this way for aproximately 15 years with no problems or losses. Three pumps running 24/7 move 20500 gph. Two pump out into waterfalls and I also have a 6 hp air pump running airstones. No other koi are showing problems. no flashing, no shying away from the big guy.
      I had help testing the water.
      Nitrate 25
      Nitrite 0
      PH 6.8
      KH 48
      GH 60
      ammonia 0

      What are your suggestions?
      Attached Images Attached Images   

    2. #2
      inazuma28 is offline Senior Member
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      Since you are dealing with such a large body of water, id recommend moving him to the QT. When moving him id sedate him with clove oil and disinfect the area with iodine, dry, and then throw on some neosporin and allow that to sit for a minute. Then id salt the QT and heat it to 80-82 degrees to aid in healing. Im sure someone with more experience will chime in, but ive treated my fair share of fish. Id also bring the KH up on the main pond by adding baking soda. It acts as a buffer and stabilizes the pH at around 8.3.

    3. #3
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you Inazuma28. Do you think from your experience it has the potential to be fin rot? And could you share the salt amounts? I've never done that before, and I purchased aquarium salt this morning. I'll transfer him over to the QT tank by tonight. Thank you for your quick response.

    4. #4
      livinzlife is offline Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by Ash89 View Post
      Thank you Inazuma28. Do you think from your experience it has the potential to be fin rot? And could you share the salt amounts? I've never done that before, and I purchased aquarium salt this morning. I'll transfer him over to the QT tank by tonight. Thank you for your quick response.
      Koiphen has a handy salt calculator here:
      http://www.koiphen.com/forums/koicalcs.php?do=calcsalt

    5. #5
      inazuma28 is offline Senior Member
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      0.3% is a good therapeutic dose. It is likely fin-rot, but that is caused primarily by bacteria, and rarely by fungus (as I understand it), iodine kills both. The real goal here is to have the koi heal itself which is why the temperature is important.

    6. #6
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      I’m just making sure I’m not missing anything. I put salt into the QT after I do the iodine and neisporin? And leave him in there? I don’t have to remove him into a secondary QT? I’ve read a lot of articles on salt but I’ve never used it in practice. And safety precautions... keep him on quarantine until his tail is better or for my standard six of months?

    7. #7
      inazuma28 is offline Senior Member
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      no need to leave him in for a prescribed amount of time, just until he starts looking good. Yes, put the iodine and neosporin on his skin, like you would if a child had a cut, then let him heal in the QT with the salt and heat. Also, QT water quality is much more important than keeping him fed, so only feed lightly.

    8. #8
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      Thank you very much for your help. He’s in the QT tank. There’s no such thing as too much oxygen in a tank right? I know bumping up the tempature to 80 I need increased oxygen so I have an old 4 way air pump that I have all four running on the med-high setting. I’m checking on him every half hour out of pure nerves. Do I need to re-apply iodine?

      Also....
      Anyone ever have any luck teaching a koi to swim into a net on command? You would make millions! Thank you again for all of your quick help! I really appreciate it!

    9. #9
      RichToyBox's Avatar
      RichToyBox is offline Administrator ~ WWKC BOD ~
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      There is no need to reapply the iodine or neosporin, and there is no such thing as too much oxygen.

      As was mentioned before about the addition of baking soda to stabilize the pH by raising the KH, I would first look to see what the pH is at about sunrise and again, just shortly before sunset. Photosynthesis by the algae and other submerged plant material will consume carbon dioxide during the daylight hours removing one of the sources of acid in the pond that drives the pH. During the hours without sunlight, the reverse of photosynthesis occurs generating more carbon dioxide. Without a good buffer, the pH can swing quite sharply. Your KH at 48 would be very concerning to me on a small pond, not sure on a pond of your size. I like to see KH values of about 150 to 200, more or less. Your pH of 6.8 is also quite low for most of the koi ponds that I am familiar with, bordering on a value that would indicate a potential pH crash, but the value may be standard, morning, noon, and night for your pond. Stability is the key. If the pH is swinging, the cheapest buffer for the pH is baking soda, and the pH will be stable at a value of about 8.3. There is a calculator http://www.koiphen.com/forums/koicalcs.php?do=calckh to calculate the amount of baking soda needed to raise the KH by a specific amount. Baking soda can be bought in 13 pound bags at the wholesale clubs, Walmart in the swimming pool section, and the price is about $6 or $7 per bag.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

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    10. #10
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      RichToyBox- I’ll do another test in the morning when I have someone here that see color a lot better than me. I should mention that my pond has a tight fitting picket fence completely around it, a deck that overlaps it by about a foot and a half and it’s roofed over with tin. I have struggled with keeping enough plants but this year I kept all the koi in the lower largest pond and I think the term was a veggie filter but I can’t rememver the proper name off of the top of my head. I also added a uv light. It’s a new unit as the one I had used in the past years finally gave out. This one hooks directly in line on the intake side from the pump to the filter. Vs the gravity filter from the past. I don’t know if that makes a huge difference but it’s a fact about my pond that I forgot to mention. But the parameters will definitely be checked again in the morning. Thank you!

    11. #11
      Ash89 is offline Junior Member
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      Sorry for the really late response. I was called in this morning to work a double shift. At 625 this morning the parameters were

      Nitrate 22
      Nitrite 0
      PH 6.9
      KH 50
      GH 60
      ammonia 0

    12. #12
      RichToyBox's Avatar
      RichToyBox is offline Administrator ~ WWKC BOD ~
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      Due to the size of the pond, I would just try to keep an eye on the pH and if it swings more than about 0.2 morning to evening, then I would look into increasing the KH, otherwise, watch and see.

      "Our goal is to assist with emergency and Koi health issues, as well as educate on best practices. Please help us gain a clear picture by giving the original poster time to answer our questions before offering opinions and suggested treatments."

      Zone 7 A/B
      Keep your words sweet. You never know when you may have to eat them.
      Richard

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