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  • Page 8 of 14 FirstFirst ... 567891011 ... LastLast
    Results 141 to 160 of 273

    Thread: Blue Eco conversion to motor drive

    1. #141
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jaymeseywaymsey View Post
      Why not just use a properly designed float switch that’s mounted to the internal bracket of the original BE float?

      Wiring is simple, all you need is a relay, a timer, a low voltage transformer, a fused power switch, a project box, a cord, a distribution block and a momentary switch. Cost would be under $100, perhaps even under $50 depending on the timer option.


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      Now not trying to put you on the spot, but I wouldn't know the first thing about how to find or which to use of what you
      listed. If I did a simple search I'd get a zillion different sizes, styles, AC/DC, etc., etc... But just using Amazon or anything
      simple and nothing needs to exact, can you show examples of what those things are and which ones could go together?
      (No one use any of this for a shopping list)

      I'm a retired phone guy... I barely know the difference between a volt and an amp. To me that list isn't simple.
      --Steve



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    2. #142
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Now not trying to put you on the spot, but I wouldn't know the first thing about how to find or which to use of what you
      listed. If I did a simple search I'd get a zillion different sizes, styles, AC/DC, etc., etc... But just using Amazon or anything
      simple and nothing needs to exact, can you show examples of what those things are and which ones could go together?
      (No one use any of this for a shopping list)

      I'm a retired phone guy... I barely know the difference between a volt and an amp. To me that list isn't simple.
      Putting the list together as we speak Steve.


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    3. #143
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      I'm pretty much in the same boat on the electrical components, but I'm trying to learn. I ran across this controller, not sure if it would be useful, but I thought I would add a link and see if anyone could give give an opinion on i't pros or cons. https://makermotor.com/pn00118-digit...ed-in-the-usa/

    4. #144
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    5. #145
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      Quote Originally Posted by Riftlake View Post
      I'm pretty much in the same boat on the electrical components, but I'm trying to learn. I ran across this controller, not sure if it would be useful, but I thought I would add a link and see if anyone could give give an opinion on i't pros or cons. https://makermotor.com/pn00118-digit...ed-in-the-usa/
      Shows a bit of potential, but will need a DC power source. If the motor, and solenoids are all DC, I could see it working. You would have to get the makermotor dialed in to work with your RDF. While it’s a stout motor, it’s shaft is the difficult point to adapt it.


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    6. #146
      rcmike is offline Supporting Member
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      If you can find a used Neptune Apex or even Apex JR. You could use that to control it. A couple of float switches and just plug in the motor and sprayer pump and program it. It might be a little more expensive but you can use it to control other things as well. You could also set it up to monitor when the drum cleans or shut off the pumps if something goes wrong and the water is drawn down too far due to a clogged screen.

    7. #147
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      Quote Originally Posted by rcmike View Post
      If you can find a used Neptune Apex or even Apex JR. You could use that to control it. A couple of float switches and just plug in the motor and sprayer pump and program it. It might be a little more expensive but you can use it to control other things as well. You could also set it up to monitor when the drum cleans or shut off the pumps if something goes wrong and the water is drawn down too far due to a clogged screen.
      Those are pricey... I'm still recovering from sticker shock from the motor.
      If the timer doesn't work as I hoped something like these look simple too:

      https://premiumaquatics.com/products...-sensors.html#

      A lot more expensive than DIY float sensors and relays but looks like less work too.
      --Steve



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    8. #148
      nil13 is offline Senior Member
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      Yeah, I would get the Universal Devices ISY-994i and some insteon addressed switches before I dropped that kind of scratch on a Neptune even used. Plus the ISY can run your whole house.

    9. #149
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      I found one used for $200 that had extras that I can sell and probably make up half of that. I've been meaning to sell them but haven't gotten around to it.

    10. #150
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      Just waiting for the Oriental Motor... scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I grabbed an ES5500 pump
      from the garage shelf and I'll plumb that temporarily to pull directly from the pond to the shower
      to keep it running while I have the RDF torn apart. Not sure how long it'll take me so want to be
      prepared for the worst.
      --Steve



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    11. #151
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      Motor arrived. It and the gearhead weigh in at an impressive 12.8 lbs. together. They are substantial.
      I got the temp pump set up to continue to feed the shower so tomorrow I'll take the BE off line and start
      the mods. Should be an adventure.

      Name:  temp shower pump.jpg
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      --Steve



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    12. #152
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      Are you going to add any support to the BE sidewall to prevent bowing?

    13. #153
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      Are you going to add any support to the BE sidewall to prevent bowing?
      Has a BE ever been known to have a bowing sidewall? I thought that is what we loved about them? Their tanks are built like, well, a tank!

    14. #154
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      Good luck Steve
      -Rain

      :I CAN'T BRING THIS SHIP INTO TRTUGA ALL BY ME ONESIES, SAVVY?:

    15. #155
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      Quote Originally Posted by kby103 View Post
      Are you going to add any support to the BE sidewall to prevent bowing?
      I'm guessing because of the weight of the motor? But no, I think it should be fine. I ordered the gearhead to
      be at a right angle from the motor shaft so the majority of the weight will be close to the wall of the container
      as opposed to perpendicular to it and have a lot of weight sticking out away from the wall.

      Name:  motor orientation.jpg
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      --Steve



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    16. #156
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      I really wanted to replace all the pvc between the pressure pump input and the spay bar with new stuff
      without the fittings and hoses in them and get rid of the valve since I'll be replacing it with one on the exterior
      of the tank, but I realized now that it's all 32mm pipe. So I ordered some 32mm x 1" adapters but they
      won't be here till the end of next week. I suppose I could just remove the diaphragm in the valve and it
      would be constantly open? And then I could plug all the hoses.

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      --Steve



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    17. #157
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      So overall... what’s your impression of the kit and motor?


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    18. #158
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jaymeseywaymsey View Post
      So overall... what’s your impression of the kit and motor?
      The kit seems very well put together. I'm not sure about the water level sensors. Seems like there
      might be a better way to do it besides figuring a way to attach the floats to a bracket in the filter, so
      I think they could probably be left out and let the individual figure out what would work best for them.
      The shaft fits the motor like a glove. Very well done. But I suspect the motor might be overkill... but
      the kits shaft is designed to work with that motor so I didn't want to reinvent the wheel. Plus I'd
      rather it be a little more than needed as opposed to being not quite enough. Especially since Oriental
      Motor has a "no return" policy. Sounds like you buy it and you own it no matter what. The key that
      comes with the motor doesn't quite fit the shaft, but for 71 cents I got one at Ace Hardware that fits
      perfectly.
      I'm hoping even though the gears are plastic, they'll hold up over time... I think that is the biggest
      unknown at this point. But I think if someone could provide the two gears, a shaft design that might
      be a little more universal and offer some flexibility for different motors, and the waterproof seal and
      mount; the BE owner would be well on their way to doing the conversion. But there are variables like
      the solenoid and if the owner is still using household water supply or a pressure pump and what kind
      of controller, if any, they decide to use.

      --Steve



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    19. #159
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      It seems to me that household water pressure should not be an issue once you go motor driven. It doesn't seem to me that even at 35-40 PSI that there is ANY issue cleaning the screen. Only an issue driving the drum. And once converted to motor drive all PSI will go to cleaning so it should perform even better.

      I have had a couple stuck on situations lately at times when I have been fussing around cleaning out my drain pipes. It is interesting that the longer a stuck on happens the harder it is to get the drum moving again. With the drum very full of water and the tank very low on water the drum becomes VERY heavy and hard to move. I think this is another reason to go with a float rather than a timer. Should the filter clog quickly and draw down the water in the tank to a very low level then it could really tax the motor. Assumably this motor can take it, but what if it can't? What if a plant pot got knocked into pond and it (the dirt)went into the drain quickly and plugged the screen almost entirely and there was another 14 minutes left until the next cleaning cycle? Ok, ok, I know. Unlikely scenario. I am just really pushing for your system to be float controlled because I want to copy what you do in the future. I have 2000$ in my BE RDF and dropping another 1000 to have it be motor driven and totally trouble free? In a heartbeat I would do it. Of course, so long as it is float controlled.

      Looking forward to seeing the progress!

    20. #160
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by mplskoi View Post
      It seems to me that household water pressure should not be an issue once you go motor driven. It doesn't seem to me that even at 35-40 PSI that there is ANY issue cleaning the screen. Only an issue driving the drum. And once converted to motor drive all PSI will go to cleaning so it should perform even better.

      I have had a couple stuck on situations lately at times when I have been fussing around cleaning out my drain pipes. It is interesting that the longer a stuck on happens the harder it is to get the drum moving again. With the drum very full of water and the tank very low on water the drum becomes VERY heavy and hard to move. I think this is another reason to go with a float rather than a timer. Should the filter clog quickly and draw down the water in the tank to a very low level then it could really tax the motor. Assumably this motor can take it, but what if it can't? What if a plant pot got knocked into pond and it (the dirt)went into the drain quickly and plugged the screen almost entirely and there was another 14 minutes left until the next cleaning cycle? Ok, ok, I know. Unlikely scenario. I am just really pushing for your system to be float controlled because I want to copy what you do in the future. I have 2000$ in my BE RDF and dropping another 1000 to have it be motor driven and totally trouble free? In a heartbeat I would do it. Of course, so long as it is float controlled.

      Looking forward to seeing the progress!
      I completely agree on the lessening effect using household water pressure when motorized... but I'm not even sure how to get the existing valve to
      work with a float system as opposed to the stock plunger. That's why I brought it up as a factor for future mods.

      And I know just what you mean about the weight of the drum when the clean side is all but empty, but I suspect this motor will be able to turn it
      even in that state, but I'll put it through some extreme tests and see how it handles. I'd really like to explore the float control options too but in all
      honesty I'm not sure how much I'll do if the timer works.
      --Steve



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