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  • Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
    Results 21 to 27 of 27

    Thread: How to remove Pond Armor from concrete for new sealant

    1. #21
      icu2's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by BWG View Post
      They are good products if used properly. None, I repeat NONE of them (DIY types) can handle negative gas or hydrostatic pressures. If you have water trapped behind the coating or seeping in from the outside through the concrete there is a good chance they will fail. Either by trapped air pushed by water into the coating backside or water being forced to the coating backside and causing bubbles. Sun shinning on the coating near and above the water line can create steam under the coating near the top of the tank if the concrete has trapped moisture also causing coating release.
      Is this for strictly for coatings?
      Xypex has been suggested too and I've not had any issue with hydrostatic pressure from the exterior fwiw.
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    2. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Is this for strictly for coatings?
      Xypex that has been suggested too and I've not had any issue with hydrostatic pressure from the exterior fwiw.
      Yes. Xypex more crystallizes to make the concrete waterproof which is different than a top coated application.. as tf has repaired delta locks with xypex coating but also had success with pond armor. This shows he is a true professional and his results show

    3. #23
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      We just waterproofed 4 pans that uses a membrane with a 2 inch over lap on the seams. Typically we use 40 mil epdm liner. This is a curb less design so we use a product called kerdi and 0 failures. Many failures come from user error imo.

    4. #24
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      I have done a couple of small alterations on lake Luke, and where I chipped through the xypex stucco coating the xypex bonded so strong to the concrete block that the material never broke along the line between the two...the xypex layer is darker so i could see two distinct layers but only because of the different coloration.
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    5. #25
      BWG is offline Senior Member
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      Quote Originally Posted by icu2 View Post
      Is this for strictly for coatings?
      Xypex has been suggested too and I've not had any issue with hydrostatic pressure from the exterior fwiw.
      I was referencing the paint and rubber types of concrete coatings. Although you will also get better results with the cement type coatings if they are applied on inside surfaces that are not actively leaking water from the outside in.

    6. #26
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      Pond Armor is an epoxy coating. If it is truly bonded, it is almost impossible to remove from the concrete. Most times the failure is caused by the delamination of the epoxy due to the hydrostatic pressure brought on by water on the back side. If it is delaminating, then it is fairly easy to remove, getting a chisel or knife blade behind it and prying it loose. If it is not delaminating, the impact hammer will break the concrete under the coating making it fairly easy to remove, but it will also destroy the integrity of the surface left after removal, with many small microcracks, making recoating unlikely to succeed without grinding or blasting of the concrete surface to get to good concrete.

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    7. #27
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      Why not remove the pond armor thay easily comes off. Then take versabond thinset and do a slurry coat over the whole thing. Then take pond armor and recoat the whole thing. I've seen a builder use pond armor over shotcrete and it turned out like glass.

      We are literally using thinset to make our seams water proof in our shower pans. Using thinset will greatly keep the moisture from getting to the pond armor and will let the pond armor truly adhere.

      This is a steam shower we did and 100% watertight. Pan uses a fabric membrane and thinset seals the seam
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      Last edited by kevin32; 02-27-2018 at 09:50 PM.

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